what to use for a cutting board...

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jamaster14

jamaster14

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have a couple knives on the way, looking into get some new cutting boards. any suggestions. right now i have This Guy but he needs to be retired.
 
I own a walnut and I love the look, but it does show surface cuts. Best bang for the buck is maple. As far as performance no real difference just pick the one you like best (David Smith only uses appropriate woods)
 
I own a boardsmith walnut board and have a brick pattern walnut on the way. I love it.
 
I also have a Boardsmith, in walnut brick pattern. It's fantastic and was definitely worth the short wait. If you get a Boardsmith I don't think you'd be disappointed. There's a reason he is so highly regarded on here!
 
Yea definitely get a boardsmith as the others have said, I love my maple cutting board from him and I would recommend it or any of his boards really.
 
toddnmd said:
Curious why it needs to be retired. I can't imagine wearing out a 3" board.
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i have lent it out to my sister and got it back, in well, less then desirable shape. wasnt able to clean whatever biohazard stuff she seemingly got on it.
 
think ill go walnut... thanks for the reccomendations!
 
Get a sander and refinish it. Or I'll take it off your hands if it's getting retired anyway.

I don't know what you mean by biohazard, but unless it's completely deformed there's no reason you couldn't keep using it.
 
orangehero said:
Get a sander and refinish it. Or I'll take it off your hands if it's getting retired anyway.

I don't know what you mean by biohazard, but unless it's completely deformed there's no reason you couldn't keep using it.
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im not sure what it is, she said she spilled some "gunk" on it... whatever it is went about 1/8" deep into it. i gave it to my dad to try and refinish(he used to be a carpenter) but its backed up in his queue a bit
 
My BoardSmith Maple Magnum

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I got tired of an old warped sink cover cutting board so I cast about for a piece of wood. Too lazy to go to the lumber yard and too much of a wood butcher to take too much trouble. Found an ancient table in the basement and unscrewed one part and cut it to fit. Then I repositioned the braces so it will stay firm in the sink. I hope it IS cherry because I like the idea of a hardwood that is still soft enough for my carbon steel knives.

I have a couple photos, but don't yet have permission to post attachments.
I'd previously sanded off the old finish and oiled it years ago.
I passed an old Lansky diamond 'stone' over it a few times then rubbed in some beeswax and olive oil. [no mineral oil around at the moment]
The first thing I noticed using it was how great it was to have a fairly slick surface to slice on again.
 
Danarnold said:
I got tired of an old warped sink cover cutting board so I cast about for a piece of wood. Too lazy to go to the lumber yard and too much of a wood butcher to take too much trouble. Found an ancient table in the basement and unscrewed one part and cut it to fit. Then I repositioned the braces so it will stay firm in the sink. I hope it IS cherry because I like the idea of a hardwood that is still soft enough for my carbon steel knives.

I have a couple photos, but don't yet have permission to post attachments.
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Would be unusual to be end-grain though right? If not, it will beat the hell out of your edge.
 
chinacats said:
Would be unusual to be end-grain though right? If not, it will beat the hell out of your edge.
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Thanks. That's why I posted this; to see if there would be any problems. It's definitely not end grain.
Cherry rates about 950 on the Janka scale of hardness, compared to 1010 for walnut and 1450 for maple.
Are you saying that quality cherry, walnut and maple boards from companies like John Boos are or should be end grain?
http://www.cuttingboard.com/wood/maple/
 
Danarnold said:
Thanks. That's why I posted this; to see if there would be any problems. It's definitely not end grain.
Cherry rates about 950 on the Janka scale of hardness, compared to 1010 for walnut and 1450 for maple.
Are you saying that quality cherry, walnut and maple boards from companies like John Boos are or should be end grain?
http://www.cuttingboard.com/wood/maple/
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Boos makes both, but the only ones you would want to use on a quality knife would be end grain. You want the knife to 'cut into' the wood not 'bang against it' and that is the practical difference.
 
El Pescador said:
plainsawn cherry would work fine for a cutting board.
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Thanks. That's my view. I've tested it with some older, fairly inexpensive high carbon Japanese knives as well as my old Henckels [SS] and the edges seem to hold up fine. I may purchase a smallish Hinoki cutting board to replace the bamboo ones I use when I want to transfer directly from the cutting board to the pot. My concern was kindled by ordering a Fujiwara Teruyasu Nashiji 210mm gyuto, which should be the finest knife I've ever owned. I'm actually happy with the edge I can put on those old SS Henkels, tho' they certainly aren't shaving sharp. :)
 
I bought a 2" end grain maple board from Snow River for only $64. Not sure how long it will last, but it looks good. Inspired by Hinoki boards, I also bought a 1" x 15" pine round for $7. Very soft, about 400 Janka I think, but even then I like to cut with the knife parallel to the grain. Oiled regularly with mineral oil it seems like a great and inexpensive alternative to boards costing $200 and up. Pine has been found to have better antibacterial properties as well.
 
I'm still not sold on the notion that edge or face grain are that hard on your edges. I mean, yeah, it makes sense that end grain is gentler, but are you guys doing drum solos, or cutting food? I don't slam my edges into my board, and have had zero issues with chipping that I can think of. I actually like the feel of face grain a lot, to boot. Of course end grain will be gentler, but I don't think people need to be so hard on their knives when cutting. Maybe I just don't like the sound and have become conditioned, or something.

For what it's worth, NoChop and Salty preferred the feel of edge grain, as well, back when they were here.
 
Lefty said:
I'm still not sold on the notion that edge or face grain are that hard on your edges. I mean, yeah, it makes sense that end grain is gentler, but are you guys doing drum solos, or cutting food?
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:doublethumbsup:
The $7 piece of pine certainly feels softer than end grain walnut and slicing potatoes and carrots leaves no marks, tho' I can make one with a thumbnail. I thought the whole point of using a sharp knife is so you don't have to use much force. My new Teruyasu Fujiwara 135mm petty slices a fresh, cold roma tomato with one stroke with no downward force but the weight of the blade. I'd never use it to chop anything.
My challenge is to keep the good knives away from my wife. :bigeek:

BTW, what is the proper punishment for someone who leaves a sashimi knife in the the sink? :sad0:
 
Danarnold said:
:doublethumbsup:
The $7 piece of pine certainly feels softer than end grain walnut and slicing potatoes and carrots leaves no marks, tho' I can make one with a thumbnail. I thought the whole point of using a sharp knife is so you don't have to use much force. My new Teruyasu Fujiwara 135mm petty slices a fresh, cold roma tomato with one stroke with no downward force but the weight of the blade. I'd never use it to chop anything.
My challenge is to keep the good knives away from my wife. :bigeek:

BTW, what is the proper punishment for someone who leaves a sashimi knife in the the sink? :sad0:
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In regards to how hard they feel the density/hardness of the wood will have greater effect than grain orientation. That pine block will probably be "easier" on your edge as the wood is so soft.
 
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