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Thread: Knife Newbie Needs "Death Blade" - Advice?

  1. #51
    Ah! – yes, there’s definitely wedging (cracking before completion) with thicker / harder product, especially squash.

    Concern on price is a matter of getting something worth the cash; don’t want to spend and then find out i should have bit the bullet and dropped an extra $20 for the upgrade. Also want to avoid spending more than the tool is worth, compared to its peers.

    Watching videos of late that concentrate on PROPER cutting techniques. Been trying them out and i like the results – even with “Wally.” Happy to leave rocking to cradles and the padded cell in the psych ward.

    Think i’m trending to carbon (no fear on reactivity), but could be due to my bias on stainless from my experience with “Wally.” (It really fights taking an edge.)

    Also think stiction is a bigger concern (for me) than wedging. Right now, stiction is a “24-7” problem during prep. Wedging? I’d be real reluctant to put a delicate & expensive instrument through the heart of a hard-shelled anything. Would not be using it for squash, bone-work, or etc. which is only 10% of my daily hands-on, if that. Wally can keep those jobs.

    Handle – leaning towards wa, less for weight than how it fits in more ‘conventional / professional’ cutting techniques. Western seems to favor a “brute force” approach in firming to the grip and providing leverage. Wa seems to disfavor ‘death-gripping’ for finesse; a light approach that emphasizes utilizing the blade more than the hand.

    just my impression.

  2. #52
    Keep in mind that many Wa handled knives are measured from the tip to the machi, which means that you'd probably want a 240mm Wa if you are accustomed to a 210mm/8" Western.
    If the knife has a machi, then the blade is measured with the machi. But most gyutos do no have machis so their length is measured from tip to the heel.
    I am not sure about this, but I think most double bevel knives don't have machi for that matter.

  3. #53
    I am a newbie myself. I sold my German knives/Shuns and got my first Japanese knife last June, prob 6-8 more knives since with no end in sight.

    You're way overthinking this and the Shift + quotation keys on your keyboard are unnecessarily suffering. There's no way to predict what will be best for you until you just get something and figure out what you wish it did and what you wish it didn't do. Spend some money on 2-3 stones such as Dave' Martell's 3pc set, or a combo stone; and the $60-ish diamond flatening plate from Japanese Knife Imports.

    You'll learn more in one day from a decent starter knife and a sharpening setup than you will in a year's worth of reading on teh_interwebZ.

  4. #54
    Senior Member ThEoRy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruso View Post
    If the knife has a machi, then the blade is measured with the machi. But most gyutos do no have machis so their length is measured from tip to the heel.
    I am not sure about this, but I think most double bevel knives don't have machi for that matter.
    Mostly all Wa handled knives do. Double beveled included.
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  5. #55
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    Ok, so you want a carbon steel, 240mm Wa-handled gyuto that isn't anemic for under $200 (or there about). Here are some suggestions from different forum approved vendors:

    $135 - Gesshin Uraku White #2 from JKI
    $175 - Zakuri Blue #1 from JKI
    $202 - Itinomonn Kurouchi V2 at JNS
    $210 - Zakuri Super Blue from JKI
    $220 - Kumagoro Hammer Finish V2 at EE
    $221 - Itinomonn Kasumi V2 at JNS

    I've no personal experience with V2 steel or any of the knives above for that matter. I'll let others chime in with comments and/or suggestions. The owners of JKI (jbrodia) JNS (maxim) and EE (xdrewsiferx) are all members here, you can PM or call them directly about their wares.

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