Kato Dragon 240mm Review and Questions (Pic Heavy)
I want to give an overview of the Kato Dragon 240mm. I post what I see it and will try to be as accurate as possible.
Fit and Finish: The knife was packaged well. It was oiled and wrapped by paper. Overall the finish is nice, but I did find 3 blemishes on the blade. There are spots on the dragon side near the ferrule. There is a mark on the kanji side by ferrule close to the spine. There are marks on the kanji side near the tip by the spine. What should I use to remove the spots safely?
Geometry: From the choil shot, you will notice that the dragon side is convex while the kanji side is rather straight. From the spine shot, there is a noticable distal taper and the blade almost looks bent. To test it, I laid the blade flat on each side. I found that the kanji side curved inward by the spine. However, when checking out the edge, it looks straight. The dragon side was straight on. What do you guys think from the pictures? I don't think it's a bent blade, but I'm no expert.
From this point of view: Right convex is dragon side. Left straighter (maybe slightly concave) is kanji.
Spine shot: Right side is kanji. Left side is dragon. Notice the taper and convexing right side.
Dragon facing up/ Kanji facing down: Kanji side goes concave in the middle and straightens by the tip. Along the edge, looks like it sits pretty straight. I think the concave part is only near the spine, while closer middle and edge is straighter.
Kanji facing up: Dragon side is convex with a distal taper. With the convex grind on the dragon side, you notice that the knife doesn't sit flat on it's edge and also tapers towards it.
Performance: Cuts crazy good. I thought I liked lasers, but this heavier workhorse just wants to cut. The edge on this thing is SHARP and I haven't really experienced microchipping or reactivity.
Can't tell exactly from pictures, but I'd guess you could remove any blemishes with sandpaper if you really care. Or leave them as is and forgot about possible spine bent. This thing cuts well and that's what really important. And the edge isn't bent, so you won't have problems with sharpening.
My 2 cents…
I was wondering about those blemishes being oxidization since it's carbon. If it's easy to polish out, I'd do it. It doesn't really affect performance, but was thinking they shouldn't be there.
I've polished my 'workhorse' gyuto several times, trying to remove some of those blemishes (lines, perpendicular to the length of the blade). Standard on Kato, unless you get Kikuryu or something. Yeah, just used the standard sandpaper and natural slurry and they're basically gone now, but it takes time/effort. That jigane is very hard. Mine doesn't have a dragon, though, and I'm not too fussed as like it's name I think of this as my workhorse.
Ok good to know. I won't touch it then. This thing is going to be used.
Definitely use it, don't mess with it if it's working well. And let us know what you think about it after a month of solid work. Excellent purchase
Originally Posted by Zerob
I picked up a dragon a while back- first run? Maybe second, I dunno. It's stellar, and like you said it wants to cut: I need to keep feeding the beast or it'll take a finger one of these days.... But seriously, an unexpectedly great all rounder although it really depends on preference of style and technique
I just received a 240mm Kato Dragon today, the fruit of a recent sale. I can't see any blemishes yet because I'm so excited to have the thing. It's a beast. I can't wait to use it. It feels strange compared to my other Wa-handled knives, and not just due to it's heft. The tang where it meets the ferrule is very wide (or tall, I guess) meaning the the tang that actuall disappears into the handle is much narrower. I'll have to use a slightly different grip. The dragon and the Kanji are splendid.
Looks good. The grind looks pretty. It looks like the edge has enough bevel and not so steep as to start chipping out. Sometimes taking edges to razor thin is not the best. It looks like the bevels are in the sweet spot of razor territory without being too ambitious.
I would be tempted to get a micro tiny artist paint brush and paint in the scales of the dragon with mustard for a striking patina/contrast...then keep the rest of the blade as clean as possible