New to stones/strops

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loves2cook

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I picked up a king 1000/6000 wet stone and just made a couple of strops. I've been practicing on some of my older knives and watched numerous videos on youtube on wetstones and stropping. This is addicting lol and I've been able to put a razor sharp edge on a few knives that glide through paper and can shave hair off my arm. I ordered some green chalk compound and the extra fine which is white. I bought the leather belts at home depot and had them cut the 2x4 in 2 foot sections. I'm using one for the gren, one for the white and one raw. Any other suggestions ?
 
Do most of you have a stone between the 6000 and the strop ?
 
It's addicting isn't it?

I have the JNS 300, 1K & 6K in my set up and been working very well for the different knives steel in my arsenal.

For the strops, I have leather that I usually charged with chromium oxide and also one of Marko Tsourkan's hard felt charged with 1 micron diamond spray.

This set up has been working very well for me, although I am thinking of adding a Jnat or synthetic in the grit higher than the 6K to play around with.

I bet the other more experienced members will also advice you more on this soon.

Ferry
 
It's addicting isn't it?

I have the JNS 300, 1K & 6K in my set up and been working very well for the different knives steel in my arsenal.

For the strops, I have leather that I usually charged with chromium oxide and also one of Marko Tsourkan's hard felt charged with 1 micron diamond spray.

This set up has been working very well for me, although I am thinking of adding a Jnat or synthetic in the grit higher than the 6K to play around with.

I bet the other more experienced members will also advice you more on this soon.

Ferry


Thanks for the reply. Is there any advantage with a spray vs a chalk/ paste type compound ?
 
My chromium oxide is in chalk form, I just spread it on the leather.

As to the pro and cons of it, I have no definite idea. I bought both of the strops paired like that from the suppliers and they worked very well.

Ferry
 
For the strops, I have leather that I usually charged with chromium oxide and also one of Marko Tsourkan's hard felt charged with 1 micron diamond spray.
Ferry
I've never had a good handle on various strop materials and compounds. Do you routinely use both of the strops? If so, what order, and why?

I see various kinds of leather, as well as balsa and hard felt for strops (as well as some people who use newspaper), and I've never really understood the pros and cons of those various materials.
 
Do most of you have a stone between the 6000 and the strop ?

Depends on the knife. Gyuto I go right from 5k to felt or leather with diamond. Yanagiba I go up to 12k then felt or leather with chromium. The difference is a sharp edge with some bite or a smooth sharp edge.
 
I've never had a good handle on various strop materials and compounds. Do you routinely use both of the strops? If so, what order, and why?

I see various kinds of leather, as well as balsa and hard felt for strops (as well as some people who use newspaper), and I've never really understood the pros and cons of those various materials.

From my limited experience, I also found that certain steel types react differently to my 2 strops. I am still experimenting all the time.

From all the knives I have, I use my Sakai Yusuke Swedish stainless gyuto the most. That particular knife I always touch up on JNS 6K and finish on the leather with chromium oxide. That gives me a very sharp toothy knife perfect for my commercial use. That steel does not react very well to the felt one with diamond. My Harner's nakiri with Carpenter CTS-XHP PM steel, on the other hand, works well with the felt.

I think, this topic is very subjective since everyone has a different opinion on sharpness, what you use the knife to cut with and what steel.

It's an everlasting journey with knives, stones and strops. There is no right answer, just try and stick with what works best for you.

Listen to Theory, he knows what he is talking about. Heck, his sharpening video is one of the few that I regularly look up to.

Ferry
 
My thoughts - It seems to me that certain compounds work better or at least have a different result depending on the steel. Obviously the compounds are available in different micron ratings so that has an impact but also diamond compounds seem to be more effective at abrading more wear resistant steel. Diamond also seems to give a more toothy edge, I assume because of the shape of the diamond particles. Other compounds give a better polish. As far as strop material, the felt seems to give a more toothy finish, my guess is from the fibers. This also seems to aid in bur removal. With balsa, there is less risk of rounding the edge from pressure, which can happen with leather or felt - particularly if the felt is not the harder stuff that seems to be less commonly available (only seen it discussed as being available from Marko and in the past Dave). Of course the edge can be rounded with balsa if too obtuse of an angle is used. With smooth leather I'm not sure it has any advantage over other materials if compounds are used. Seems to be a fair amount of variability with leather too and it can develop an uneven surface overtime. Newspaper is obviously inexpensive and easily available and seems to work well for some, and can be used on a hard surface which again may reduce the chance of rounding the edge.
 
What type or kind of felt do you recommend ? I would like to give it a try. Thanks !
 
the felt I have is rated sae grade F1, which had the highest density and hardness rating I could find. If you search the forum I believe you will find some posts from Dave Martell discussing felt. He sourced some and had it available for sale through his site (japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com) but no longer offers it. I recall it being hard to source or not readily/commonly available. The F1 grade stuff is flexible and cloth-like. From what I gather, the stuff Dave offered is sold as rock hard felt sheets. If you search the web I think you will see it is expensive and typically offered in large dimensions and not in 1/8" thickness. Dave indicates that the hard stuff worked much better for stropping. Marko (tsourkanknives.com) I believe offers a similar grade felt which you can buy mounted or magnetic backed for use with a base such as a DMT diamond plate.
 
I got a felt strop from dave and that stuff is scary good. I dont bother with compounds or anything, the strop is great on its own as a final step once you finish sharpening.
 
I got a felt strop from dave and that stuff is scary good. I dont bother with compounds or anything, the strop is great on its own as a final step once you finish sharpening.

Thanks I'll look into one of those. How much are they ?
 
the felt I have is rated sae grade F1, which had the highest density and hardness rating I could find. If you search the forum I believe you will find some posts from Dave Martell discussing felt. He sourced some and had it available for sale through his site (japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com) but no longer offers it. I recall it being hard to source or not readily/commonly available. The F1 grade stuff is flexible and cloth-like. From what I gather, the stuff Dave offered is sold as rock hard felt sheets. If you search the web I think you will see it is expensive and typically offered in large dimensions and not in 1/8" thickness. Dave indicates that the hard stuff worked much better for stropping. Marko (tsourkanknives.com) I believe offers a similar grade felt which you can buy mounted or magnetic backed for use with a base such as a DMT diamond plate.

Was lurking here and had to register and respond.

Anytime I'm in need of miscellaneous anything, I always check McMaster-Carr. Sure as **** they have F1 grade felt. Two inch wide, 1/8" thick is $2.49 per linear foot. 12"X12"X1/8" adhesive backed is less than $16.

Check it out (do a search for "felt"): McMaster.com.
 
I did a forum search on this subject 'cause I was interested myself.

As far as hard felt goes I did a quick google and found this:
http://www.thefeltcompany.com/sae-pressed-wool-felt/

Talking to the "expert" Phil, 1/8" F1 felt is 2lb/sq.yd., but they have 2 heavier grades that go 4-4.75lb/yd but which they refer to as 26 and 38 pound. Phil told me they sell their f1 grade to a company that makes barber strops. Didn't ask what the minimum order is (probably not too much for the 26lb, but the 38lb would be a special order at this time and my have a bigger minimum), but maybe Dave and some others here would be interested in looking into it.

Rick
 
I got a felt strop from dave and that stuff is scary good. I dont bother with compounds or anything, the strop is great on its own as a final step once you finish sharpening.

Labor, I've been sharpening my knives with natural and synthetic stones, and after a few months I am also ready to incorporate a strop. My question for you and the other experienced members on this site is: Do you think it's better to learn on a leather strop and then move to felt? Or is there that much of a difference in learning with either one?

I've found that as I progress in sharpening, I have an increased need (compulsion?) to finish the edge as sharp and as polished as possible. This thread has really provided a ton of info for this newbie, thanks for sharing!
 
The basic strop technique is the same, whether it's felt, leather, cardboard, newspaper or stone itself. The material of choice is something personal. I use HA leather and DIY balsa strops no compounds. I am tinkling on getting some diamond spray perhaps.
 
I have experimented with various stropping compounds and substrates and continue to do so. One thing I have found about CrO is it tends to polish quite quickly, thus the risk of giving you a skating edge - over polished. I would look into some other mediums like diamond or possibly CBN if you wish to refine your edge past your finest stone. By the way, what is your finest stone? (Forgive me if you've already said). Also, what knife(s) is this for?

hrc63
 
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