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Check out this article from GQ. It's a great take on the impact of young chef's practicing 'modern cooking'. Really good read. Here's a taste but follow the link for the whole article.
Something has gone wrong in our restaurant kitchens lately. Suddenly, a new breed of chefs seem to have decided that they should be cooking not for your pleasure but for their own. In this competitive, male-dominated school of cooking, the dishes that customers are served may be highly inventive and intelligent, but as Alan Richman notes, too often they are more self-indulgent than inspired. The result? Restaurants where the only person who needs to be pleased is never you, just the Something has gone wrong in our restaurant kitchens lately. Suddenly, a new breed of chefs seem to have decided that they should be cooking not for your pleasure but for their own. In this competitive, male-dominated school of cooking, the dishes that customers are served may be highly inventive and intelligent, but as Alan Richman notes, too often they are more self-indulgent than inspired. The result? Restaurants where the only person who needs to be pleased is never you, just the chef.
http://www.gq.com/life/food/201403/alan-richman-dude-food?currentPage=1
Something has gone wrong in our restaurant kitchens lately. Suddenly, a new breed of chefs seem to have decided that they should be cooking not for your pleasure but for their own. In this competitive, male-dominated school of cooking, the dishes that customers are served may be highly inventive and intelligent, but as Alan Richman notes, too often they are more self-indulgent than inspired. The result? Restaurants where the only person who needs to be pleased is never you, just the Something has gone wrong in our restaurant kitchens lately. Suddenly, a new breed of chefs seem to have decided that they should be cooking not for your pleasure but for their own. In this competitive, male-dominated school of cooking, the dishes that customers are served may be highly inventive and intelligent, but as Alan Richman notes, too often they are more self-indulgent than inspired. The result? Restaurants where the only person who needs to be pleased is never you, just the chef.
http://www.gq.com/life/food/201403/alan-richman-dude-food?currentPage=1