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Thread: Lapping stones with dmt xxc 120 micron

  1. #1
    Senior Member sel1k1's Avatar
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    Lapping stones with dmt xxc 120 micron

    Through out the past three months I put together my first stone set; all large single grit stones: misc makers 220 grit(big brick stone), 700 bester, 1200 bester, 3000 oishi, 8000 oishi, and a 120 micron xxc dmt.

    My question is; Can I use the dmt xxc to lap all of these stones or is there something else I need for the higher grit? I put a few tiny gouges in the 3000 so I turned it over and have been using the other side until I lap the top, but I don't want to mess up any of the stones.
    (^.#)

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    Senior Member EdipisReks's Avatar
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    it's fine for all of them.

  3. #3
    Yeah, use the DMT for all the stones. Make sure you wash them thoroughly so that any abrasive that might come off the DMT isn't around when you sharpen on them (nasty gouges, that!). For the higher grit stones, you will see some gouge marks from the DMT. If they are softer, muddy stones then this won't be a problem and you can use them as is, sharpening will take down the marks in a hurry. If they are harder stones then you might have to buy a nagura of some time to remove the gouges. But most nagura aren't really good at lapping (too small/slow), so you'll definitely have to start with the DMT. When I did the initial flattening of my natural finisher I lapped with DMT, then lapped with my other flattened stones in order (500, 1000, 6000), progressively removing the marks till I got to the tomonagura. Worked well for me.

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    Senior Member Seb's Avatar
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    I use an old dish brush to clean off my Atoma 140, especially after Naniwa SuperStones - the gunk the higher grits leave on your diamond plate is no joke.

    I also use these a heckuva lot, in fact, I hardly bother to get the big diamond plate out now that I am in the habit of smoothing/levelling the edges.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Seb View Post
    I use an old dish brush to clean off my Atoma 140, especially after Naniwa SuperStones - the gunk the higher grits leave on your diamond plate is no joke.

    I also use these a heckuva lot, in fact, I hardly bother to get the big diamond plate out now that I am in the habit of smoothing/levelling the edges.
    Seb,
    have you noticed any diamond release from those Diaflex in the slurry?
    DMT usually release until they are well broken in and I do not like them for that reason.

  6. #6
    Senior Member sel1k1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdipisReks View Post
    it's fine for all of them.
    I thought so, just didn't want to take the risk with the higher grit stones and have read mixed technique of using a higher micron to lap higher grit.
    (^.#)

  7. #7
    Senior Member sel1k1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UglyJoe View Post
    Yeah, use the DMT for all the stones. Make sure you wash them thoroughly so that any abrasive that might come off the DMT isn't around when you sharpen on them (nasty gouges, that!). For the higher grit stones, you will see some gouge marks from the DMT. If they are softer, muddy stones then this won't be a problem and you can use them as is, sharpening will take down the marks in a hurry. If they are harder stones then you might have to buy a nagura of some time to remove the gouges. But most nagura aren't really good at lapping (too small/slow), so you'll definitely have to start with the DMT. When I did the initial flattening of my natural finisher I lapped with DMT, then lapped with my other flattened stones in order (500, 1000, 6000), progressively removing the marks till I got to the tomonagura. Worked well for me.
    Excellent, I will be lapping within the hour ^__^. Forgot to mention; I did pick up a nagura for the 3000 and the 8000. What do you use for washing? Rinse with warm water? How much did you pay for the natural stone?
    (^.#)

  8. #8
    Rinsing with water works fine. Just feel the stone thoroughly to make sure there aren't any higher grit particles on it, and while wet, look at it in the light across the surface at eye level - any particles will cause the water to swell up around them so you can see them. As for the natural stone, price is too random to bother quoting anything. Talk to a reputable vendor (I bought mine from Maksim at www.japanesenaturalstones.com), let them know what you are looking for, and make sure that whatever else they've used and know the quality of any stone they are selling. Price will vary wildly based on where the stone is from, how hard it is, what the size is, what the composition is, etc.

  9. #9
    Senior Member sel1k1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seb View Post
    I use an old dish brush to clean off my Atoma 140, especially after Naniwa SuperStones - the gunk the higher grits leave on your diamond plate is no joke.

    I also use these a heckuva lot, in fact, I hardly bother to get the big diamond plate out now that I am in the habit of smoothing/levelling the edges.
    A dish brush is fine for the dmt as well? Plastic brissle? Woah, those are very inexpensive. Certainly within my budget. Everytime I think my stone/sharpening set is complete I find new things to add to it. Funny, after I got all my stones, I found Youtube videos of Murray Carter and his two stone technique ><. Hehehehe. I am very happy with my set, although I can't help but think how much happier I might have been with a large dual 1000/6000 and a new sujihiki.

    I am concerned about using a 700 diamond on my 220 and 700 stones, would this plate be fine? Or is this for stones above 700?
    (^.#)

  10. #10
    Senior Member sel1k1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    Seb,
    have you noticed any diamond release from those Diaflex in the slurry?
    DMT usually release until they are well broken in and I do not like them for that reason.
    Hmm, how long does it take to break in the dmt? I am practicing with my first set of knives that I don't care too much about and trying to sharpen at least once every other day. I have read it is good to lap every time to start with a flat surface.
    (^.#)

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