Haha! I also bought a board from MTM last week. Haven't asked whether they have shipped it already...
I asked them few days ago,how long it takes for a package from russia to germany since I bought it 2 weeks ago and they answered,that the order is ready to be shipped.
I thought they would at least be able the ship the package after 2 weeks.
once its on the way,I am supposed to get a tracking number,but I havent got anything yet.
Production time can easily consume 10-14 days, so 2 weeks seems to be a reasonable time to me. From my experience packages from Russia to Europe usually travels under 3 weeks (with majority of time lost in the customs).
Originally Posted by domgro
ah ok,I thought the board was already finished when I ordered it,since it was a single specimen.
I'll be curious to see how these MTM boards stack up against the competition. The price is very competitive and they do look good as well.
I went to a timber yard, rummaged around and found a large piece of mahogany which I sanded and put small feet on. It is heavy but it will last forever and cost me only $40. Every once in a while. I will sand it again. Very happy.
Since this thread showed up in the June newsletter, I thought I'd add my .02 cents and this is just my opinion based on 40 years of cooking at home.
This should be common knowledge: "Maple, walnut and cherry are generally accepted as the best woods for cutting boards. End grain cutting boards are preferred over edge grain, but ..."
Do not discount the durability of edge grain boards or the effects edge grain boards have on your knives edges. Earlier in this thread there was mention of Oak boards from Europe. Well
I have an Oak cutting board that was the work surface of a charcoal grill I bought in '77 when I was stationed in the U.K. The grill is long gone but I used this as my sole cutting board
for 30 years. Although it doesn't look new anymore, it certainly has a lot of life left in it and I still use it on occasion. I replaced it with a Boos edge grain board about nine years ago.
I've been very pleased with this board. There's plenty of work surface and because it's only about 1.5" thick, it's easy enough to take to my large, single bowl kitchen sink and give it a
quick cleaning. When I joined this forum I became familiar with The BoardSmith and ordered a custom sized black cherry board and retired my Boos board. Like many have said, David's
boards are almost too pretty to use. These boards are really the best cutting boards money can buy. David has figured out the right ratio of block size to glue joints to board size.
This makes for a strong board but without too many glue joints that can effect the durability of your knife's edge. If there is any drawback to a BoardSmith cutting board, well these
boards don't fit everyone's budget. But that's okay. As I pointed out earlier if an end grain board is not within your budget you should be able to find a well made edge grain board
that won't break the bank.
Another viable choice is the "rubber feeling" boards like Sani-Tuff. These boards take a little time to get used to, but in the end might make you a better user of your knife. Why?
Well with wood you can chop down as hard as you want and you're not going to do much if any damage to the wood. With a Sani-Tuff board you can cut into the surface which
you really don't want to do. So what you end up doing is developing finer control of you knife to cut your proteins or vegetables without cutting deeper than necessary.
I recently moved and after a short trial period, unfortunately found my beautiful BoardSmith cutting board was too large for my counter. I've put my Boos board back into production
and although it's not nearly as pretty I know it will get the job done for many years to come.
I have been swamped with work recently and am just now getting to the point I can read a little. So I will try to respond.
End grain is easier on edges for a variety of reasons. Edge or face grain boards just can't hold up as long but with care they will provide adequate service and life. However, some of the people I know just don't care for their boards properly and wonder why it died an early and unnecessary death.
Mineral oil is essential! A caot when the area used most starts to turn lighter than the surrounding are is all it takes. There is no, let me repart that, no schedule for oiling a board. Discard any of those old wives tales as soon as you hear them. Simply put, the person relating that knows nothing of what they speak of.
Read today a blurb on another web site where the maker states mineral oil will evaporate so you need to use his mixture of mineral oil and bees wax on top of the board. He copied my Board Butter name, substituting f's for the t's and called it Board Buffer. Again, pure baloney. Mineral oil doesn't evaporate, it is absorbed deeper into the wood and is carried off in minute amounts with the food that is cut on the board and washed off when sanitizing. I may sue him for copyright infringement.
Wood is usually preferred but rubber workes as well. Plastic boards are usually somewhat hard on edges and can be almost impossible to clean properly. Washing in the dishwasher doesn't help much. Bamboo is hard and all the added glues and resins used make it harder on good edges. Glass cutting surfaces is knife abuse pure and simple. Might as well cut on your driveway or a brick.
Build time can vary depending on how busy the maker is and who the maker is. If you order from Boos, Michigan Maple Block, JK Adams or Catskill, there is a good chance they have the board on the shelf ready to go. Remember, they build hundreds a day on an assemly line using many workers and automated machines. The closest many of the small makers get to an automated machine is our own two hands. If you want instant gratification, buy from one of the mega-large national brands where a worker sees the board for an instant then goes on to the next one. If you want more of an artisan board, find a smaller maker but be very careful who you choose. Seems every person with a garage workshop is an expert and not all of them can grasp the comcept completely. (I have seen some of those garage workshops where there is no room for a car and trying to get around is an exercise in thrying to get through a well defined path.) I have seen some real shady characters on ebay and Etsy selling boards and their wild claims are laughable. In short, check them out! I have seen some of the boards the Russian the OP ordered from makes. I would prefer some heavier devices but he seems to get along with what he has. Since I haven't seen his boards up close and in person I can't comment on the quality.
Here is where size does matter; get the largest board you can afford and have space to use. Smaller boards limit the luxury of usable work space. Larger boards give more room to cut, store, and move around as needed. Get what you can afford now and then upgrade in the future, as needed.
I am sorry if I am being to long-winded. I hope I have helped in a small way.
I have an 11"x17" end-grain cutting board that is supposedly made from yellow birch. I have been trying to use it, and I don't especially like it.
1. It's very heavy and therefore difficult to wash and/or dry. I tend to cut something up and then move the cutting board over to a pot/pan and slide the food into the pan. The weight and size of this board makes it difficult to do this.
2. Due to it's size and thickness, I don't know what to do with it when it's not in use. It takes up a lot of space wherever I put it. I actually have a lot of counter space in the kitchen but putting the cutting board on the counter takes up that whole section of countertop.
3. It sucks up oil like a sponge. When I first bought it, I was oiling it every day and the oil just kept soaking in. I think I went through a whole bottle of oil in this way. Anytime I oil it, the oil immediately is absorbed. How often should I oil it?
1. Try moving the cut up items to a bowl, sheet pan, etc. for transfer to the stove area. I have to do this myself since my cutting board is 8+ feet from the stove. 2. No real words of wisdom here except leave it on the counter if possible. 3. Sounds like it has never been oiled enough. I believe BoardSmith gives his boards an immersion bath before he packs them up and sends them out. I suggest you keep oiling until it takes a long time for the oil to soak in (say 20+ minutes before it all disappears). Once you finally get it to that point you should only have to oil every few weeks, or maybe even longer in between. Of course try and keep the board away from a heat source (HVAC vent, side of stove, etc.), as the heat will dry it out fast. Hopefully you will be able to enjoy the board more going forward than you have previously.