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Thread: Band saw blades?

  1. #11

    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Westchester, NY
    I pay about $75 before shipping per 6' blade in 1/2"x.025"x3T Lenox Trimaster carbide-tipped blade. I usually order 2 at a time. A cut is very smooth and requires very little sanding. Cutting tropical hardwoods is pretty effortless, and mind you, I cut up to 3" tall blocks sometimes. The motor (1/2HP) can barely handle, but the blade is fine.

    Over the years, I have used a variety of brands and types, before I switched to carbide tipped blades. It will save you money (and time, as setting and tuning up a bandsaw with each blade takes time) in a long and possibly a short run. Particularly if you plan on cutting dense material, as stabilized wood is.

    Recently I went back and used bimetal (Starret brand I think) blade. It dulled quickly, compared to a carbide tipped, so I almost considered it a waste of money.

    Another thing, you might want to upgrade the blade guides on your band saw. This will give you a smoother cut. I got mine from Carter Products (not that Carter ).


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  2. #12
    RRLOVER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Has anyone purchased blades from
    There prices are so low I am suspect of the quality.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Ghent, NY
    See if you can slow down the speed some - maybe some adjustable pulleys. It will cut metal better and your blades will last longer. I have a 16" Delta three wheel band saw that I converted to metal and it cuts very well. I cut Tele bridge plates, aluminum, copper and other steel up to 1/4" on it without complaint.

  4. #14
    Senior Member richinva's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    The Lenox bi-metal (I use the Diemaster 2) is really hard to beat for an overall blade. My big saw is set up with a 1/2" 3tpi .035 and I use it for green wood and for crosscutting and ripping dry wood. I also have a Trimaster carbide blade for this saw, but it sees very little use.

    My smaller saw is set up with a 1/4" 6tpi for smaller curves, smaller material.

    I've had good luck with these folks and you can get any width, thickness, length, etc.
    Last edited by richinva; 07-23-2012 at 09:05 AM. Reason: forgot stuff

  5. #15
    Senior Member Seth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Philadelphia, PA
    When I was woodworking I had my powermatic 14" - great saw, now in storage. A little OT, but I found that rather than any resaw fences or gadgets, all you had to do is track the blade: saw some wood with a line on it, freehand, and see whether following the line requires an angle to the feed to following the line. Once you know how the blade tracks you can angle a fence so that you are not fighting with the tracking. I found that wide blades were not necessary and I could resaw 6-7" deep for bookmatching with a 3/8" blade. This came from a book by a guy named James Krenov who did beautiful little cabinets and tables - worth the read. I think he wrote 2 or 3 books so you have to find the right one where he talks more about techniques. He is all about the efficiency, not power. A properly adjusted, properly sharpened tool doesn't need the brute force.

    Everywhere you go, there you are.

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