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Thread: First J Knife

  1. #41
    Basicly you mean changing the tip from 3 to 2?


    My friend has a 200 King stone that I might be able to borrow. would it be ok? if not, what 400 stone is recommended?
    And what should I do? sharp it in an angle of around 5-10 Degrees? (is this what you mean - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twP_05UEHIM )

    I'm asking all that so I could learn and put goals for myself, but for now, it's so sharp that I rather give myself a few weeks of practice just so I won't cut myself bad.

  2. #42
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    When easing the shoulders I would rather say changing from 2 to 6. The very edge should remain unchanged. Try at the lowest angle you're comfortable with, verify the scratch pattern and go until you've reached the edge. You will have to touch up the edge after this.

  3. #43
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    Not much for diagrams, the convex # 6 is a good cutting edge. Barac you got a nice blade with the Hiromoto AS. On Jons knife sharpening playlist the first 10 videos I think cover double bevel knives. He also covers carbons which is your core steel.

    That AS steel will get very sharp even on a 1K stone. My Hiromoto thinning bevel spine is close to the stone maybe 5 degree the final bevel(also called secondary,micro other names) I go spine height between 10 & 15 degree. That creates a small blended bevel that is convex instead of V grind & glides thru food.

  4. #44
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    I must add with the Hiromotos you won't have too much shoulders to easen. As far as I remember from recent ones they come with very thin edges.

  5. #45
    Thanks for the comments!

    I will be watching Jon's vid's for sure, but as far as I recall they don't talk about sharpening from 2 to 6.
    So... If I'm sharpening from #2 to #6, when I'm sharpening, should my degree change in order to create that round tip?

    Keith isn't the way you sharpen #5?


    And to top it all, yea, I love this knife, I know I didn't use it much but it feels good in my hand (Though still a bit afraid of leaving some of my fingers inside what I make haha).

  6. #46
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    I suggest not creating the rounded tip; just cut the shoulders down a bit and blend the bevel into the blade face.

  7. #47
    Ok so I'll take it towards #5 cause it looks easier for first times of sharpening to not try and round the tip.

    Thanks!

  8. #48
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    Don't worry about geometry, angles or asymmetry proportions unless you want to change the existing configuration. Start sharpening somewhere behind the edge at a very low angle, raise the spine little by little, verify your progress by checking the scratch pattern, go on until you raise a burr, repeat on the other side.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by barakhav View Post
    Thanks for the comments!

    I will be watching Jon's vid's for sure, but as far as I recall they don't talk about sharpening from 2 to 6.
    So... If I'm sharpening from #2 to #6, when I'm sharpening, should my degree change in order to create that round tip?

    Keith isn't the way you sharpen #5?


    And to top it all, yea, I love this knife, I know I didn't use it much but it feels good in my hand (Though still a bit afraid of leaving some of my fingers inside what I make haha).
    Actually I never measure my angles my bevels depend on what I am cutting. For most cutting fruits, vegs, meat without bone etc. Thinning bevel is spine very close to the stone, final bevel just raise the spine.

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