Only edge trailing strokes

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Mangelwurzel

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I've recently changed my sharpening technique to using edge trailing strokes only and no edge leading strokes.

I find, as a relative beginner to sharpening, this allows me to get more consistent results with less wobbling.

Does anybody else sharpen like this? Are there any downsides in not doing the edge leading strokes?
 
From what I understand, you edge-trail only on waterstones, with harder stones like silicon carbide, Arkansas, oil stone, you can do any motion on them, even circular motion. If you push the edge towards a waterstone, the edge will dig into the soft stone and dull your edge.

I don't use waterstone, so that doesn't really matter.
 
From what I understand, you edge-trail only on waterstones, with harder stones like silicon carbide, Arkansas, oil stone, you can do any motion on them, even circular motion. If you push the edge towards a waterstone, the edge will dig into the soft stone and dull your edge.

This is not correct. If the edge "digs in", it is due to poor technique, not anything peculiar to waterstones. It is quite possible to "dig in" to an Arkansas stone.
 
I've recently changed my sharpening technique to using edge trailing strokes only and no edge leading strokes.

I find, as a relative beginner to sharpening, this allows me to get more consistent results with less wobbling.

Does anybody else sharpen like this? Are there any downsides in not doing the edge leading strokes?

The trailing edge technique is recommended by several members. There is no downside to it, except for those who have long experience with edge leading, and would need time to relearn edge trailing. (Like me.)

Good to hear it's working for you.

Rick
 
Could you describe the technique in more detail? Do you raise the knife from the stone on the leading stroke?
 
Could you describe the technique in more detail? Do you raise the knife from the stone on the leading stroke?

I remember a video from Korin site where the sharpener were lifting the knife after each stroke to put it back in to position.
However others just recommend to apply less to none pressure on the back stroke (edge leading) but apply more pressure on edge trailing. I follow the less pressure route myself.
 
Thanks, Rick.

Yes, I recall a recent thread where Jon recommended using lighter pressure on the edge leading stroke. The technique I've been using is lifting the knife off after each stroke, like a stropping-style motion.
 
Lighter pressure on the edge leading is just natural, I guess, because hands work in the opposite directions to some extent.
The downside of using edge trailing strokes only (or any unidirectional strokes for that matter) is that it must be much
more difficult to remove metal this way.


@Ruso
Yes, I remember it too. Stroke me as quite an unorthodox.
 
Lighter pressure on the edge leading is just natural, I guess, because hands work in the opposite directions to some extent.
The downside of using edge trailing strokes only (or any unidirectional strokes for that matter) is that it must be much
more difficult to remove metal this way.

Agreed, but most of my knives are carbon steel so when I'm sharpening the cutting edge, it doesn't take that long to raise a burr. When thinning behind the edge, I use both directions!
 
I noticed the Korin vids lately the guy Vincent lifts the gyuto off the stone. In Chiharu Sugai's chef's edge dvd. He lets up pressure on return stroke. He says easier for beginners to lift the knife. He does not lift the blade.

Many years ago I learned let up finger pad pressure on return stroke from a Japan National Sushi Chef. It looks like you are sharpening back & forth, however finger pad pressure behind the edge is ON trailing stroke & OFF return stroke. Since the blade never leaves the stone it is not total off-on. I had used other types of sharpening before I learned this tech. The positioning on the stone, handle hand controlling spine height, moving knife in a fluid motion as each section is finished. The other hand fingerpads behind the edge controls pressure & the movement of the blade up & down the stone. It is almost exactly the way Jon teaches it in his vids. Even handle in the way on one side as soon as out of the way angle the knife to the stone, flip side handle not in the way so angle to the stone all the way is the same as Jon. That is why I recomm. his vids to all
beginning freehanders.

As said there is more than one way to sharpen a knife, I will say that this tech worked so well took the guesswork out of sharpening & never had to use a dull knife since.
 
I noticed the Korin vids lately the guy Vincent lifts the gyuto off the stone. In Chiharu Sugai's chef's edge dvd. He lets up pressure on return stroke. He says easier for beginners to lift the knife. He does not lift the blade.

Many years ago I learned let up finger pad pressure on return stroke from a Japan National Sushi Chef. It looks like you are sharpening back & forth, however finger pad pressure behind the edge is ON trailing stroke & OFF return stroke. Since the blade never leaves the stone it is not total off-on. I had used other types of sharpening before I learned this tech. The positioning on the stone, handle hand controlling spine height, moving knife in a fluid motion as each section is finished. The other hand fingerpads behind the edge controls pressure & the movement of the blade up & down the stone. It is almost exactly the way Jon teaches it in his vids. Even handle in the way on one side as soon as out of the way angle the knife to the stone, flip side handle not in the way so angle to the stone all the way is the same as Jon. That is why I recomm. his vids to all
beginning freehanders.

As said there is more than one way to sharpen a knife, I will say that this tech worked so well took the guesswork out of sharpening & never had to use a dull knife since.

:goodpost:
I've have met several cooks not willing to learn freehanded sharpening and struggling with rather dull knives, i try learn them to at least get a small doublesided flat handheld diamond stone and a small leatherpiece (old belt) to use.
Takes a minute learn and they are often impressed with the good result it shows
 
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