Is bevel a factor to consider?!

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LarryC

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Hello everyone!

I am planning to buy a "cheap" carbon knife to practice my sharpening (before sharpening my more expansive knives) and I think I'm gonna go for a fujiwara. The price is perfect and I was about to pull the trigger when I realised that the bevel (which is 60/40 fujiwaras) does not not match the bevel on my other knives (50/50).

Does this mean that Fujiwaras are not suitable as practice knives if they don't exactly match my other knives?

Thanks
Larry
 
It will be a fine knife for practice. Less is more. Do not go nuts sharpening...ask me how I know...man I've made some screwy bevels. Ideally what you do to one side you will want to do to the other.

A 50/50 bevel is a relative term simply because freehand sharpening is never going to be precisely 50/50...so aim high and try to get 50/48.725 or greater :)
 
It will be a fine knife for practice. Less is more. Do not go nuts sharpening...ask me how I know...man I've made some screwy bevels. Ideally what you do to one side you will want to do to the other.

A 50/50 bevel is a relative term simply because freehand sharpening is never going to be precisely 50/50...so aim high and try to get 50/48.725 or greater :)

Where did the other 1.275 go?:razz:
 
Stop counting strokes and flipping sides continuously. If you follow Dave's method, you start somewhere behind the edge with the blade almost flat on the stone, raise the spine little by little and so approaching the very edge, until you raised a bur and switch to the other side. You may verify your progress with the marker trick or by looking at the scratch pattern. With this approach you rebuild every configuration without having to worry about angles and proportions. And if you want numbers: expect the edge to be strongly off-centered, in some 80/20 proportion. Reasonable values for the very edge are between 10 and 15 degree right, 15 and 22 degree left. My suggestion with the Fujiwaras would be to have the tiny left bevel straight, not convexed, to compensate for steering.
 
Stop counting strokes and flipping sides continuously. If you follow Dave's method, you start somewhere behind the edge with the blade almost flat on the stone, raise the spine little by little and so approaching the very edge, until you raised a bur and switch to the other side. You may verify your progress with the marker trick or by looking at the scratch pattern. With this approach you rebuild every configuration without having to worry about angles and proportions. And if you want numbers: expect the edge to be strongly off-centered, in some 80/20 proportion. Reasonable values for the very edge are between 10 and 15 degree right, 15 and 22 degree left. My suggestion with the Fujiwaras would be to have the tiny left bevel straight, not convexed, to compensate for steering.

Can you give more info on that method, if it is not copyrighted of course.
 
I'm such a mess...I just sharpen, and the knife gets sharp. I generally end up a bit asymmetrical but try to make sure it's balanced and centered to control steering.
 
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