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Thread: 240 Gyuto design and layout.

  1. #1

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    240 Gyuto design and layout.

    Ok...I forgot a friends birthday, and he wanted a nice kitchen knife. This will be my first kitchen knife....Problem is i have to have this done by wednesday. I have a drawn profile and would like your input and critique. It will be a wa handle and i am a bit hesitant, but at this point have no choice lol. Here is the pic.


    I am using O1 and not sure about the handle yet....I have a lot of stuff to choose from.

    Thanks
    Mike D.

  2. #2
    Senior Member EdipisReks's Avatar
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    i would drop the tip a little. give it plenty of distal taper, but i only like a strong taper starting about a third of the way from the tip. otherwise looks good. good luck!

  3. #3

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    Thanks...I have to start cutting this one out in an hour or so and wanted some input. I originally had it lower but wasn't sure. I will drop it about 1/4 of an inch for a start and just go with my gut on the way i wanted it originally. I think originally it was 3/8-7/16 lower. It is drawn to size, which is about 15.4 inches in total length. with a 2.2 inch heel height.

  4. #4
    Canada's Sharpest Lefty Lefty's Avatar
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    Hope I'm not too late, but I second dropping the tip. Knock it down to about a cm below the bottom of the ferrule. I'm looking forward to seeing the end product.
    Good luck!
    09/06

    Take a look around at: www.sharpandshinyshop.com

    Email me at: tmclean@sharpandshinyshop.com

  5. #5

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    k...here is what i have so far...I played with the profile quite a bit after the drawing. I got the tip down...when measured straight across from the bottom of the handle it is about 2 cm below that. I roughly laid in the bevels....It was HT and is in the oven as we speak. I like how it turned out so far...Hopefully i can keep it going good throughout the whole process



    The whole tip has been redone, as it was too long and was too high. I measured and achieved an edge length of 240.04mm. Not too bad for my first rodeo.
    More pics as it gets cleaned up

    Thanks
    Mike

  6. #6
    The tip should be just below the bottom of the bolster, which it looks close to. You shouldn't have to drop it too much. Instead, change the flat portion of the blade so it doesn't run parallel with the spine. You want it to slant up towards the spine as it gets towards the tip. It can still be flat, but when the heel is on the board, it angles the handle upwards a bit.

    I can see where you had the tip previously, having it there is fine, but the previous profile drops down to the cutting edge a bit too swiftly. A more gentle belly into an angled flat spot in front of the heel and youll be dead on.
    "God sends meat and the devil sends cooks." - Thomas Deloney

  7. #7
    Whoops, we were typing at the same time. Looks good, I would say it has a bit too much of a pronounced belly about 3" in from the tip. Should be able to ease it into a gentler transition after heat treat still if you'd like. Try it on a board and see how it feels.

    Edit: Also, if in the first picture the second line is a grind guide line, I would drop it by the heel and let it taper up towards the spine as it get towards the tip. This will make the section of the blade just in front of the blade more durable and rigid for heavy work, and help the spine support the thinner front half of the blade, reducing too much flexibility.
    "God sends meat and the devil sends cooks." - Thomas Deloney

  8. #8

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    Actually, i did that already...just didn't get the pics yet.I thought it was too much also so i smoothed out the belly on it quite a bit...I like the feel of it a lot better now.

  9. #9

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    In retrospect...i should add that i am making this a stick tang with the wa handle...though about the full tang, but it is heavy enough atm lol.

  10. #10
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    Looking good Mike. Does Del know you stole his handle?!

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