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Thread: Coastline San Mai WIP

  1. #11
    Looks awesome! Love the profile, Sweet work!

  2. #12
    WillC's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys. The blade shape is really satisfying. Also I was really impressed with the edge it took. I tend to sharpe to the point where I can feel the edge dig in my skin from a slight touch on my thumb. A similar feeling to a razor with a mirror finished edge. In my mind it was "laser sharp", Having been looking at some of the tests and review you guys do for you go to kitchen knives. I became naturally curious and did some cutting and food prep with it. The first thing I noticed is food sticks to it in some situations. Not as bad as if it was just flat ground with a smaller bevel. The convex starts probably 10mm in from the edge. The next thing I noticed is it would not do the tomato push cut. I little movement and you can slice waffer thin but no push cut. I had expected it to sail through everything. Although it does seem to brake the skin straight off a 1K. I think i'm going to take it back to the hones and try some different angles. Maybe take the convex to a 7 degree bevel and then put a 14 degree micro bevel on that. Hopefully that will improve the push cut and the glide. What do you think? I'm sure every maker on here must have been through this at some point.

  3. #13
    WillC's Avatar
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    I think for the average domestic user, this would be the sharpest thing they would ever use in the kitchen. But the bar seems dramatically higher here and having tested it I can see why. The things about it which seem to work in its favor are the thickness at the back and the nice progressive taper. This is something I will keep for this type of blade. Hopefully I can dramatically improve this on the hones. Bringing the convex flatter and back a bit to a thinner finer edge.
    The polished edge/non push cut is getting me. My early feedback on T.B london's damascus petty was that it did not push cut at first, which surprised me as I felt it was surely as sharp as it could be. He said after a little tickle on the hones it went through like a laser and that maybe the edge was too shiny creating surface tension. This is hurting my head a little compared to my razor experiences. But then hairs don't tend to flex much near their base.
    So for future I will try a partial flat grind , and a blended secondary to a finer final edge. I have read Del's post on this and it makes more sense to me now.
    I think what is needed is a couple of mock ups in monosteel, with handle that I can remove to play with the grind. Then some helpful testers. I have had a local offer to look and compare to some other Knives, some made by makers on here, so I will take advantage of that.

  4. #14
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    Send it to me and I'll have it gliding through food
    My santoku and petty perform excellently so the steel is capable of it. I didn't need to adjust the angles either so if the grind on it is the same it's just the sharpening.
    My suggestion would be careful of over stropping on leather, you can round the edge and lose the "bite"

  5. #15
    WillC's Avatar
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    Mmm thats encouraging. I can see some investment in hones coming on. What hone did you finish on when you gave the Petty a wee tickle? My razor hone is hard, but probably only 5K or so on slurry. I have a synthetic Nagura and the yellow mud from that on the slate seems to give the edge more bite. I'm off to buy some tomatoes as well to do some testing

  6. #16
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    I dropped down to 400 chosera to set the bevel, then work up through 1000 chosera, a 6000 ish artificial I picked up in japan, and then I'll either
    -strop leather with poly diamond 0.5 micron and then bare leather.
    - or work through an 8000 from jck and a 12000 shapton pro then strop as above

    I'll usually do both and see which I prefer in use. Usually the 6k is as far as I go.

    The stones I use are relatively quick cutting, compared to razor hones I've tried, which I prefer, the 6k is also very soft. How do you find the feedback on the slate?

  7. #17
    WillC's Avatar
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    The slate is very hard. And won't give much feedback until you have worked a good slurry. But with slurry it cuts pretty quick for a hard stone. I can see the grit pattern change through my Loupe after a few firm strokes forward and back on every part of the bevel. For £7 or so its certainly not bad at all, but wether its more suited as a mid progression razor hone than a Final knife stone i'm not sure. When I've done the job properly on 1K it does seem to give a very nice refined edge after only a few strokes on slurry. Some more experimenting I feel coming on.....

  8. #18
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    I've had a little play with the bevels. I have replaced the convex edge with a slightly higher secondary bevel about 7 degrees per side. This taken to a very fine edge just becoming sharp. Then I have put the primary in micro-bevel form at about 11 degrees per side. This barely required stropping after the slate hone with nagura stuff. But I polished the secondary on the course side of the leather. Then gently stropped the primary on smooth being very careful of the angle. It worked!! Yay. I just prepared a late lunch with it and it push cuts thin slices of ripe tomato. The difference in feel is marked going through food as well, with less suction being created on the blade. Makes it lovely to use doing horizontal onion cuts. I noticed no dulling what so ever after food prep, so hopefully the edge will last and will be easy to top up every now and then on the strop. I guess it will be easier to maintain also? As when the primary becomes a tad thick from multiple hone touch ups, the secondary can be worked till its nice and thin again.
    Here's some pics attempting to show the new bevel.


  9. #19
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    Sounds like success , 7 degrees per side should make it very slicey......
    do you deburr on cork (or felt) or rely on the microbevel/final strop to clean the edge up? I haven't played much with microbevels, maybe I should give them a go again

  10. #20
    WillC's Avatar
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    The cork sounds like a good trick. If I feel like I may have created a bur I tend to do a strop stroke on the stone im using followed by a normal stroke on the opposite side. I tend to have a peak through a Loupe every now and then to check progress, (Handy little thing). Burs and flat spots show up straight away. I don't see there can be that much danger of creating a wire edge on a micro bevel as they can be done with a pretty fine stone and with little not much pressure if your nearly there anyway.

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