Miyabi 5000MCD or Miyabi 7000D

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Biggie

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Hi Guys,

Just wondering if anyone has god experience with these two knives?

At the moment I am going between the two, I like the 5000MCD's visually but they definitly come with a premium. Any one have a strong case for why one is better than the other, interested more in which is a better quality knife. I don't just want to assume more $$ = better quality as I was quite shocked to realise the other knives I was looking @ were quite expensive but were't the best value.

Cheers Guys

Biggie:biggrin:
 
5000MCD is SG2 with a handle in no stabilized birchwood.
Miyabi 7000D is Vg10 with micarta handle.
My advise :go with ZDP189 Miyabi (MC66 according to Henckel naming).
 
Bolek said:
5000MCD is SG2 with a handle in no stabilized birchwood.
Miyabi 7000D is Vg10 with micarta handle.
My advise :go with ZDP189 Miyabi (MC66 according to Henckel naming).
Click to expand...

Hi Bolek,

So the steel in your mind is better on the 7000D's? I have read up on these two knives but got confused as they're not using normal names for their steel!!!!

Thanks in advance for your advice!!
 
The 5000MCD is not only better looking, but also the better knife. The core material is harder and has a superior microstructure, so that it holds a finer edge longer. The 7000D is slightly handle heavy, whereas the 5000MCD is well balanced.
 
PS: yes, Henckels uses their own names for steel. SG2 as used in 5000 MCD is powder steel, which is quite a bit superior to VG10.
 
I think henckels discontinued all mc66 lines. Sometimes I still see some ebay listing for the old 7000mc knives with zdp-189
 
Yup, I bought one last year (24cm 7000MC gyuto), my local cooking supplies shop still had it on display (at a bargain price, too). At that time it was already no longer available, neither from the factory nor did a google shopping search turn up any of them that were on offer by shops.
 
MCD 5000 is much better. The SG2 has superior edge retention and sharpness. I love mine. I have the 8" and the 9.5". Also remember that they are offset bevel so be prepared to sharpen at different angles. Also get done boos block cream for the handle. Seals the handle and also brings out the pattern.
 
Livlif said:
...Also remember that they are offset bevel so be prepared to sharpen at different angles...
Click to expand...

At first I was unaware of this when I bought my Miyabi knives (600 MCD ZDP-189 gyuto and petty, 5000 MCD-B SG-2 parer). They are right hand biased (add the D handle too), the gyuto doesn't cut that well for me being a lefty, the parer/petty are okay since I often use them to cut off the board towards me (bad idea) which is similar to cutting right handed. After reading Dave's post on asymmetry I'm thinking the gyuto is going on BST.
 
Livlif said:
MCD 5000 is much better. The SG2 has superior edge retention and sharpness. I love mine. I have the 8" and the 9.5". Also remember that they are offset bevel so be prepared to sharpen at different angles. Also get done boos block cream for the handle. Seals the handle and also brings out the pattern.
Click to expand...

Hi Livlif,

Can I ask you to expand on what you mean by the blade has an 'offset bevel'. I looked on Miyabi' website and this is what it states:

Thin, stable blade with authentic Japanese blade profile: symmetrical cutting edge with 19° angle

I am very new to the world of knives so excuse me if I just asked a stupid question!!!

Cheers!
 
Biggie said:
...I looked on Miyabi' website and this is what it states:

Thin, stable blade with authentic Japanese blade profile: symmetrical cutting edge with 19° angle
Click to expand...

Interesting I just read this too. The bevel is definitely asymmetrical (id say 70/30 ish with right hand bias), but if the blade grind is 50/50 then perhaps I can keep mine and adjust as I sharpen. Only problem is that as a home user with a lot of knives coupled with the wear resistance of ZDP-189 ad limited use if this particular knife I've yet to sharpen it so it'd be some time before it's where I want it.
 
tjangula said:
Interesting I just read this too. The bevel is definitely asymmetrical (id say 70/30 ish with right hand bias), but if the blade grind is 50/50 then perhaps I can keep mine and adjust as I sharpen. Only problem is that as a home user with a lot of knives coupled with the wear resistance of ZDP-189 ad limited use if this particular knife I've yet to sharpen it so it'd be some time before it's where I want it.
Click to expand...

Once again excuse my ignorance but what you're saying is the blade while still holding an even angle on each side of the blade the actual edge will be offset? Making the grind higher on one side compared to the other???

EG:
____ < Knife edge


......................< Blade Edge
_______ < Knife edge

Haha I hope this makes sense!!!
 
Biggie said:
Once again excuse my ignorance but what you're saying is the blade while still holding an even angle on each side of the blade the actual edge will be offset? Making the grind higher on one side compared to the other???

EG:
____ < Knife edge


......................< Blade Edge
_______ < Knife edge

Haha I hope this makes sense!!!
Click to expand...


More like this for a right hand biased knife Biggie:

________ Right Bevel
...................... Blade
___________ Left bevel

The blade is not thicker on one side, rather one bevel is just much smaller. All you likely want to know about this subject is in this thread.
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/5656-Asymmetry-–-The-REAL-DEAL
 
Biggie said:
Hi Bolek,

So the steel in your mind is better on the 7000D's? I have read up on these two knives but got confused as they're not using normal names for their steel!!!!

Thanks in advance for your advice!!
Click to expand...

So the steel in your mind is better on the 7000D's? Not at all. The 7000D's Vg10 is hardened to 60 RC while the 5000MCD SG2 is hardened to 63RC. BTW Miyabi harden its ZDP 189 to 66 RC.
 
Bolek said:
So the steel in your mind is better on the 7000D's? Not at all. The 7000D's Vg10 is hardened to 60 RC while the 5000MCD SG2 is hardened to 63RC. BTW Miyabi harden its ZDP 189 to 66 RC.
Click to expand...

That's what I wasn't sure about, I know that 'hardness' can lead to brittleness but in comparison with these two knives, would you recommend one over the other?

Bearing in mind I'm comfortable using a honing rod, and a stone on a cheap knife, not near my brand new $400 knife!!! My knife skills are not too bad but once again, never owned an expensive knife.. I would feel comfortable having these knives professionally sharpened until I felt comfortable putting them to stone.
 
Lots of terrible "professional" sharpeners out there who may never have handled anything like the ZDP ... and instead drag your blade over some belt sander, like the dozens of $20 knives they get each day from various restaurants ...
 
PushCut said:
The blade is not thicker on one side, rather one bevel is just much smaller.
Click to expand...

I do not understand what you mean. When a bevel has different widths on both sides then either ...

.... the apex of the edge is offset, like Biggie described in post #13, or ...

.... you have a centered apex but different angles (which does not seem to be the case according to the Miyabi website), or ....

.... both at the same time.

It is not possible to "just make one bevel smaller", there must be a reason for it.
 
Biggie said:
That's what I wasn't sure about, I know that 'hardness' can lead to brittleness but in comparison with these two knives, would you recommend one over the other?
Click to expand...
From the two I clearly recomend the 5000MCD.
 
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