I was thinking leprechauns
Here's a short review of the most recent Martell 240 gyuto which was mine. I ordered this many months ago, and I finally received it in October.
So far, I've only used the knife for some raw fish, pre-Thanksgiving prep and during Thanksgiving. But, I've really enjoyed using the knife.
First, the first thing I cut was some raw yellowtail. It absolutely just glided through it. The edge was not scary sharp, i.e. I could touch it with my finger without cutting through skin, however, it cut effortlessly, without any drag and great precision.
Second, the balance is fantastic. The balance point is just past the bolster. It has a great feel in the hand and the weight is excellent - not too light, not too heavy. I think the Kauri adds to the balance. This knife, compared to my 240 Hiromoto AS that was rehandled by Dave with, IIRC walnut burl, (Group Buy #2) seems less handle heavy despite the fact that the Hiromoto is definitely a thicker and heavier knife.
Third, the knife is also stiff. There is no flex when cutting despite the fact that the steel doesn't feel very heavy or dense.
Fourth, I can also use a light, modified pinch grip for almost all tasks except for chopping hard items. It's a nimble knife and simply cuts where you want it to go. I noticed no steering whatsoever.
Fifth, chopping near the heel is very smooth. As I recall, it's about as smooth as the DT ITK Western that I used to have. It's much, much smoother than the Hiromoto AS -much less wedging than the Hiromoto, much better precision with the tip - just an all around better knife than the Hiromoto.
Here are also some other things that I noticed.
First, above the midpoint of the knife toward the tip, the knife requires a little extra force to cut through hard items. I noticed this in particular with carrots. The heel area of the knife is smoother when cutting hard items. I don't have a caliper or magnifying glass so I cannot tell if the grind is a little thicker here than the heel area and that this is what is causing this.
Second, I noticed that the knife was not as scary sharp OOTB as my Hiromoto AS was when I received it. While the Hiromoto AS that I received from Dave with his Level II sharpening caused me to cut my finger by just touching the edge, this knife did not do this, which to me, was a good thing as I prefer knives with some bite, which, IMHO, results in better control.
Third, there is some sticking. I noticed some sticking with carrots, celery and onions. I haven't tried cutting potatoes yet, but again, the Hiromoto is noticeably worse.
Fourth, the patina did not start to show until I cut onions. Two drops of water that I did not wash off also left two spots. However, for several days, no patina developed - it kept its beautiful polish after several uses.
Fifth, it doesn't have quite the responsiveness or feel of Japanese carbon knives but I think that's a characteristic of O1. The steel feels light, not dense, similar to Devin's AEB-L. But, it does not have any flex which I absolutely love about the knife.
All in all, I've been really enjoying this knife. I hadn't had a chance to use it much before Thanksgiving, but I gave it a good workout prior to Thanksgiving and during Thanksgiving. As far as how it looks, the bolster is not as yellow as the pictures make it out to be. It's actually more of a light tan and the Kauri is also lighter colored.
Frankly, for those of you interested in the Hiromoto knives that Dave is rehandling, I recommend that you consider spending a little more, and get one of these knives instead. You'll still get a custom handled knife, but a knife that offers better all around performance.
Great work Dave!
"Don't you know who he is?"
Nice! Where's the pic?
I'd still like to get my hands on a wa-handled Martell gyuto ... but, given that at this point I'd be skinned alive for going beyond what I've already claimed as my "last new knife purchases", I can wait a bit
I was telling Michael that I can see how I need to make this section thinner. I've been noticing that I keep going back and redoing that section more and more on each knife. This is definitely something that I'm working on bettering with each knife. I'm thankful that you guys pointed it out.
I cut five Russet potatoes yesterday, another onion, some carrots, cucumbers and chives.
First, using about the front 1/4 to 1/3 of the blade, I experienced no sticking when cutting potatoes. I sliced up half of a potato (initially cut lengthwise, then sliced cross-wise), to see if this would cause any sticking. There was no sticking - in fact, the slices of potato stayed on the board, with only one slice disrupting the original shape of the half potato.
Second, there was less sticking when slicing very, very thin slices of white onion (see through thin). Because the knife is not thick and is stiff, I found it very comfortable to do this kind of cutting with the knife; it's the best knife I own for this. (Note: I don't own a laser so I don't have a point of reference with respect to using a laser knife for such cutting, but it's superior to my inexpensive carbon steel usuba, Hiromoto AS.)
Third, there was the same resistance when cutting carrots into lengthwise sticks and then into small chop. Again, the rear portion of the knife felt like it had less resistance than the tip when cutting carrots.
Fourth, it was very easy to do very delicate, fine cutting of chives. About half of the chives stuck to the knife, but I've yet to use a knife that chives did not stick to.
Fifth, some of the cucumbers stuck to the knife. I noticed less cucumbers sticking to the knife when the knife did not have a patina.
It certainly seems like there is a decrease in sticking after the patina started developing.
"Don't you know who he is?"