Butcher Block - Seasoning/Maintenance Questions

Simple Question:
I recently purchased a new end-grain butcher block (larch), which I'm seasoning before initial use. The manufacturer already applied a base coat of mineral oil, so I'm currently treating the block with Boos Board Cream (mineral oil with beeswax, basically). To my knowledge, you typically apply one coat of mineral oil/conditioning cream per week for the first month, and then only once per month afterwards. I would like to know if I can speed the seasoning process by waiting only a day or two between applications. This would allow me to season the board in about two weeks, assuming 1-2 days between applications is sufficient for full absorption. Would this work, or should I follow received wisdom and wait at least one week before applying the second coat?

Complex Question:
On a separate note, I managed to secure a large, edge-grain cutting board (maple) that I'd like to refinish for use with raw meats. I suspect this cutting board was used in a professional kitchen; it has some serious signs of wear, and the dimensions are quite large (I'd estimate 22 x 14 x 4, ~25lbs). It has 3 wooden bars going through the centre for stability, the handles have been recessed into the board, and there's no feet (i.e., reversible). The internal stability bars preclude resizing the board, so I'd like to refinish it on all sides to remove the knife markings, stains, etc. That said, there is one section where the glue has separated ever so slightly, creating a 0.5-1mm gap on one side of the board. I'm not a carpenter or handyman, so I'm not sure how best to address this. Also, can I get by using an electric hand sander, or will that inevitable result in an uneven board?

Someone suggested that I use Salad Bowl Finish after sanding the board, which is apparently food safe after it has cured. That said, there's a bunch of conflicting info about whether or not this is advisable, even from the manufacturer. My initial plan was to cut the SBF by about 50% with mineral spirits, and then apply 3-4 coats, waiting 2 days between each coat to allow for absorption. I'd let it cure for about 2 weeks after the final coat, and then only use conditioning cream for general maintenance going forward. Does this sound kosher?

Apologies for the lengthy post, and thanks in advance for any tips/advice.

re: simple question, when I bought a board from boos, they told me once a day for a week, once a week for a month, and then once a month for life. But that was just the oil though - not the cream. They said to just use the cream once up front and then as needed if it looked like it needed a little something extra. :2cents:

Seriously, we are talking about wood here.

Start using the board on day 1. Wax/oil it whenever the surface looks as if it the cutting area is looking dry, and do this mor often when the board is new. But it is a tool, don't be too precious about it.

I buy and use commercial heavy duty butchers blocks pretty often for restaurants and shops. We oil and wax them, and we also scrub them, but we expect utility straight away. Never had a problem.

I wonder if with such involved instructions they expect that most people will do at most half of what is recommended which will at least help the manufacturer avoid some of the issues that evolve from user error or neglect that inevitably will turn into customer complaints.

Mineral oil from the drug store, or mineral oil mixed with some beeswax every once in a while.

For refinishing: hand sanding with paper backed by a flat sanding block rather than a $50-100 electric palm sander will likely keep things flatter, but requires some elbow grease. If you don't mind spending more money consider a block plane:



Don't use the salad bowl finish on a cutting board, just mineral oil or wax. Not sure about definitively repairing the separated glue joint, but could just use some titebond 3 wood glue to fill and sand down and hope for the best.

jferreir said:

Simple Question:
Complex Question:
On a separate note, I managed to secure a large, edge-grain cutting board (maple) that I'd like to refinish for use with raw meats. I suspect this cutting board was used in a professional kitchen; it has some serious signs of wear, and the dimensions are quite large (I'd estimate 22 x 14 x 4, ~25lbs). It has 3 wooden bars going through the centre for stability, the handles have been recessed into the board, and there's no feet (i.e., reversible). The internal stability bars preclude resizing the board, so I'd like to refinish it on all sides to remove the knife markings, stains, etc. That said, there is one section where the glue has separated ever so slightly, creating a 0.5-1mm gap on one side of the board. I'm not a carpenter or handyman, so I'm not sure how best to address this. Also, can I get by using an electric hand sander, or will that inevitable result in an uneven board?
.

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Couple quick answers for you. First, to fill/fix the gap: if you have access to a wood clamp large enough to span the board (or don't mind buying one). See if the gap closes under clamp pressure. Usually it will....and assuming that's the case...squeeze a small amount of Titebond III wood glue (this is waterproof and the other models are not) into the gap and clamp it tight again. Let glue dry (don't wipe off any squeeze out. Remove dried squeeze out with razor blade after unclamping).

sanding - if you hand sand with any power sander and are doing anything more than a light surface sanding (120grit or higher grit sand paper used gently), you're likely to end up with some subtle high and low spots that you'll notice. Similar can happen if you use a handheld smoothing plane or scraper if you're not proficient and careful. The best way to do this is actually with a phone call. a lot of cabinet makers and wood working shops will have a drum sander big enough to run the whole board through like it's a single sheet of wood. If you make a few calls, or knock on a few doors, usually you can find one that will run it through their machine for a small fee. One or two passes with different grits and you'll have a brand new finish that will be truly flat.

For finishing, simple mineral oil is all you need. If you want to go the extra mile use a board butter (wax/oil blend) like the one sold here: http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/Cutting-Board-Block-Wax-p/bw2.htm

Just mineral oil. If you plan on sanding/refinishing the surface, make sure it's been some months before you've added any beeswax or beeswax mixture to the surface. The wax residue stays on the cutting surface for a long time, and if you try to sand the surface, your sandpaper will get clogged IMMEDIATELY with beeswax and you will be replacing your sandpaper many many times before you're actually sanding wood. I do like the additional hydrophobic properties of beeswax on my maple board.

bkdc said:

Just mineral oil. If you plan on sanding/refinishing the surface, make sure it's been some months before you've added any beeswax or beeswax mixture to the surface. The wax residue stays on the cutting surface for a long time, and if you try to sand the surface, your sandpaper will get clogged IMMEDIATELY with beeswax and you will be replacing your sandpaper many many times before you're actually sanding wood. I do like the additional hydrophobic properties of beeswax on my maple board.

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...and if your sandpaper gets clogged, a pencil eraser will help unclog the board gunk from the paper so it can still be used. You can also find larger sandpaper cleaners at hardware stores and amazon.

bob_loblaw said:

...and if your sandpaper gets clogged, a pencil eraser will help unclog the board gunk from the paper so it can still be used. You can also find larger sandpaper cleaners at hardware stores and amazon.

Click to expand...

There's no pencil eraser that will unclog the gobs and gobs of beeswax I'm talking about. Wax covering an entire sheet of sandpaper, and I am supposed to take a pencil eraser and wipe every square inch of it clean? Even with a cleaner, it's not worth my effort. The last time I tried this, I went through four sheets of sandpaper before I was finally removing sawdust. If it were a belt-sander, I would probably care more since the belts cost more. The belt would be completely clogged within seconds with absolutely no sawdust removal. I was on my 4th sandpaper before I met sawdust. We're talking about a LOT of gunk. My lesson learned. If I plan on sanding a end grain board, don't wax for a LONG TIME and let it all wear off.

I sanded the board lightly and use the fine sawdust to fill up the gap with clear liquid glue that dries up in 4 minutes. .. Did it 3 times till it fills up the gap entirely and sanded the area to even it and a That line looks a little wider only as it is a small gap

Its important to prevent food solid or otherwise from collecting in it. Food safe glue? area is to tiny to be a serious concern.

Oh if you are going to use a clamp.. dont forget to put a piece of wood at the clamp jaw to prevent a mark on the board,,,

Have fun and rgds D

Is it any chances that some abrasive from the sand paper remain on the wood and ruin the knife edge ?

Wipe the board with a rag and no worries about abrasive. The knife edge will be fine.