Range Hood Help

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Hi everyone:)

I am looking form some ideas for a range hood. Below is a range and it has nothing above it. Ceiling is not smooth and has industrial air pipes + other things going through (it's an old factory). I would like to get a range hood there.

I have no idea where to even start a research, short of asking general contractor for an estimate of labor at first.

Here are my questions:

1. I don't need a professional hood, but would like a good one. I cook for myself most of the time.
2. Anything specific I should know about them (I know nothing). what to look for/what to avoid?
3. Anything else i need to know.. My budget is probably to stay below $500 for hood but less is better

here is how it looks now

ugOwymt.jpg
 
for $500, I don't think you can get anything over about 600CFM. I got a low-end "commercial" unit that does 1500CFM for about $1200, and did the installation myself.

as far as features, I recommend an infinitely variable speed adjustment (rather than just "high" or "low") and a unit that is mounted on the roof, also, screens/baffles that can be run through the dishwasher.
 
for $500, I don't think you can get anything over about 600CFM. I got a low-end "commercial" unit that does 1500CFM for about $1200, and did the installation myself.

as far as features, I recommend an infinitely variable speed adjustment (rather than just "high" or "low") and a unit that is mounted on the roof, also, screens/baffles that can be run through the dishwasher.


hi!

you already said 5 things I didnt know about! I dont think it can run to the room, since there is a floor above me, so I am not sure how that's handled, short of making a hole in the window or something? (It can be seen near TV)
 
You own the building (so you can, if necessary, break through an exterior wall for ducting)? Do you know what, if any, building code requirements might apply (a contractor should know), and whether your local building code would require a permit? You're interested in an outside-ducted arrangement, rather than a not usually very effective recirculating hood, right?
 
You own the building (so you can, if necessary, break through an exterior wall for ducting)? Do you know what, if any, building code requirements might apply (a contractor should know), and whether your local building code would require a permit? You're interested in an outside-ducted arrangement, rather than a not usually very effective recirculating hood, right?


no, I wish, building in like national historical building, so no outside work is permitted... I was thinking maybe running the exhaust and attach it to the open window and then just macgyver it with duct tape... but, something tells me it may not work either.
 
I know nothing about buying hoods or installing them but I don't think it would be a good idea to try and run that much of an exhaust duct. At work our hood goes 5 or 6ft horizontal before the vertical exhaust, leaves something to be desired. Building is from the late 1800's and offices on second floor so nothing can be done. It's an old unit but still basic rule of hot greasy air wants to go straight up and not sideways.
 
I know nothing about buying hoods or installing them but I don't think it would be a good idea to try and run that much of an exhaust duct. At work our hood goes 5 or 6ft horizontal before the vertical exhaust, leaves something to be desired. Building is from the late 1800's and offices on second floor so nothing can be done. It's an old unit but still basic rule of hot greasy air wants to go straight up and not sideways.
same thing here, it's built in 1870's...
 
In that sort of location, with an open shelf behind the cooker, probably your only feasible solution that will not look horrendous, is a recirculating downdraft extractor. I doubt you can do this for $500 though.

Extraction is always a trade off between effectiveness, ugliness and noise. You need to decide what you need to compromise.
 
In most cases you have to run to the roof, especially if there are people living / working above the property. For type 1 hoods (most powerful) its $1000 a foot for the Black Iron ducting. Residential you can get away with not going to the roof, like you were wanting to try going to the window, but mounting a fan powerful enough to make it worth it will be obvious. What is that ducting I see in the picture? is that going outside?
 
Also the closer you can get to the cooking surface the better in your case, might consider going the in and out burger style, at an angle at the back of the range.

5512999337_b35a9064be.jpg
 
I had inspection today so I was able to check into the details:

1. that duct in picture, cannot be used, it's for heat or cooling only.
2. There is a fan in the 1/2 bathroom, around 10-12 left of the range. There is a chance that it's going out (I have to idea and have to see specs first). If it goes out, i'd have to cut through space above door and then get into that duct. That all sounds complicated/expensive.

I think I also don't need class 1, this is my home kitchen and while I love cooking, I dare do slow cooking (short of roasting in oven) or 12-24hr stocks, and such, so I am not sure if I need to go industrial>?

recirculating downdraft extractor sounds complicated and expensive but it also sounds like it's my best hope>?


 
It's all about what you will be doing on the stovetop and how sensative your smoke detectors are. Do some searing with lots of smoke going up in the air and you will wish you had the 1200 cfm vent. Mainly boil and braise things, and the 500 cfm type might work for you. Get 4 20k BTU burners and a flat top going full bore, and you would want a true industrial.
 
I strongly suggest you look at Costco's offerings.

I have something from the same OEM manufacturer.
900 CFM, stainless baffles, dual squirrel cage motor.

The price is reaally reasonable.
I think the American Costco even has a 1200CFM model.

Even my 900 isn't quite enough when I'm running 4-5 burners + oven.


I do want a full industrial :(
 
It's all about what you will be doing on the stovetop and how sensative your smoke detectors are. Do some searing with lots of smoke going up in the air and you will wish you had the 1200 cfm vent. Mainly boil and braise things, and the 500 cfm type might work for you. Get 4 20k BTU burners and a flat top going full bore, and you would want a true industrial.

I think there are 2 x 10k burners and other 2 likely 6-7k. I dont need 20k burners and I dont want to replace stove.

I strongly suggest you look at Costco's offerings.

I have something from the same OEM manufacturer.
900 CFM, stainless baffles, dual squirrel cage motor.

The price is reaally reasonable.
I think the American Costco even has a 1200CFM model.

Even my 900 isn't quite enough when I'm running 4-5 burners + oven.


I do want a full industrial :(


It's unlikely that I will use more than 2 or 3 burners at the same time. but, can you link me to costco examples?
 
Thanks everyone. I spoke to others in the building and seems external piping is out of the question, so I have to look for a solution within. Sadly, I am not sure which one is good and not cost prohibitive. I think costly mostly has units that require outside exhaust
 
Getting back to this :)

So far, It has been OK without the but I did have 2 issues but only when grilling. Funny thing, the only smoke detector that keeps going off is one upstairs. I suspect when smoke comes up, it accumulates and has nowhere to go and it starts to beep.

I also had some other work done in the area and few contractors basically said the following (following the pic above)

1. I would need to drill into ceiling and attach hood to it/run electrical work.
2. It would have to be recirculating kind with washable filters. No other is possible (such as running duct work, etc)
3. Work alone, they estimate 1k + cost of actual unit.

My question is, if it's only beeped twice and only when I grilled (one burgers and 1 skirt steak)... is it worth going through the hassle... and the cost. I cook for myself and occasional for friends/family but I try to stick to slow cooking meals or roasting/braising, rather than high heat applications.
 
I have a small 30 inch twin fan commercial Viking hood in my home. If I'm frying or cooking something with very strong smells, I still cook outside next to the kitchen. Maybe consider a portable induction burner. My grill has 2 side burners.
 

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