Reverse hollow grind?

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Mike Davis

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I am curious, and i am hoping that some of the everyday knife users will chime in. I was thinking that if the partial flat grind was on the edge of the holy grail, why not drop the flats behind the grind in some. With a slight(48") concave, would this help with food sticking without sacrificing strength behind the grind? This is just a thought and am in no way trying to "reinvent" anything, just trying to save some headache in the long run.

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Thanks
Mike
 
Mike, did you see my post about the "blended" shallow hollow grind?
 
I have no idea how that would work. Honestly. All I could add is conjecture, but that's definitely on the list of "try it and see" ideas.
 
nope not new

there are a few that lightly hollow a full flat or even a flat that was convexed int the edge
 
I am just wondering if it would help prevent food sticking and not sacrifice strength. I am going to try it on a piece i am making for myself to test...I plan on testing several designs before i try to sell any knives to anyone. I just want to test the waters so to speak, so i am not chasing my tail.
 
This should work fine but the effect will be marginal compared to flat except for realy thin slices, maybe...
 
This is how Takeda forges his blades. It works quite nicely.
 
I was just about to comment about Takeda's knives (at least his gyutos, dunno about the other types) using this approach. Works well for me.
 
There are a few other Japanese makers (and Carter) whose knives feature a similar grind, but it is a mostly a by-product of grinding on 3' (or so) water wheel grinders or forging a blade to shape.
 
Of course, the question is whether after all of these centuries, the grind is still merely a by-product? :wink:
There are a few other Japanese makers (and Carter) whose knives feature a similar grind, but it is a mostly a by-product of grinding on 3' (or so) water wheel grinders or forging a blade to shape.
 
Mine would be forged to shape. I plan on forging everything as close to shape as possible. Thought about making a jig to do this, like a fullering tool...exactly Daniel.
 
Anything that you forge in will eventually have to be ground out. On stuff this thin, I would think seriously about scraping or grinding.
Mine would be forged to shape. I plan on forging everything as close to shape as possible. Thought about making a jig to do this, like a fullering tool...exactly Daniel.
 
Just curious, jm, have you handled a Takeda? They are forged to shape and only the edge is ground.
 
No, I haven't. Is the rest of the blade left in its "as forged" state? Don't the Japanese smiths also "finish forge" their blades cold? That may work for them, but I am not going to hit a piece of cold blade steel with a power hammer if I can help it. Call me an old woman, but there it is.:)
Just curious, jm, have you handled a Takeda? They are forged to shape and only the edge is ground.
 
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