My new Aritsugu - can the handle be stained?

My new knife, a 240 gyuto, finally showed up!

Has quite an edge on it ootb and have used it a few times. Its developing a light blue patina (from cutting steak I think). Its a very light knife at least compared to my old Wustoff. I was surprised how light it is. Not surprisingly, its much lighter than my debar as its probably a 2mm spine vs about 8mm!

The handle is magnolia and does not appear to have any "finish" on it. Can magnolia be stained if I want a deeper colour or should I just put some tung oil on it and leave it at that. Is there any harm in this or is it just personal preference?

The coil is quite sharp so am going to try and file it down a bit and maybe the spine as well

The bevel appears to be about 90/10 which I think will be a challenge for a beginner sharpener like me. Will probably end up at 50/50 by the time I get done with it. It looks almost like a single bevel knife with a small micro bevel on the left side (but as a beginner here what do I know!)

Its interesting that the kanji is embossed on the blade unlike the deba I got in Kyoto in which it is engraved in to the metal. Have no idea if there is any significance to this

Anyways, enjoying the knife and driving my wife crazy as I keep looking for things to cut!! :wink:

Thanks!

You wont harm the wood and it will darken easily.

If you want something darker but still want a drying oil, you could use danish oil or stain the handle prior to applying tung oil; be aware that a wood as light as magnolia will darken easily and even applying a few coats of mineral oil will add a significant amount of colour.

I would advise using a light application of one of the darker danish oil mixtures. Do not use a stain without also using some kind of finish. I also advise against using combination stain/finish mixes commonly available at the home stores. These almost always use a polyurethane finish that will give you a much slicker finish than you want on a knife handle (depending on the quality, they can also get sticky over time with extended handling).

Be well,
Mikey

MAS4T0 said:

You wont harm the wood and it will darken easily.

If you want something darker but still want a drying oil, you could use danish oil or stain the handle prior to applying tung oil; be aware that a wood as light as magnolia will darken easily and even applying a few coats of mineral oil will add a significant amount of colour.

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Thanks. The ferrule is a light color so may try a couple of coats of the tung oil and see how the colour responds

mkriggen said:

I would advise using a light application of one of the darker danish oil mixtures. Do not use a stain without also using some kind of finish. I also advise against using combination stain/finish mixes commonly available at the home stores. These almost always use a polyurethane finish that will give you a much slicker finish than you want on a knife handle (depending on the quality, they can also get sticky over time with extended handling).

Be well,
Mikey

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Thanks as well. I suppose theres no harm in starting with the tung oil and moving to something darker if I don't like it. Where do you get Danish oil, never heard of it?

vern1 said:

Its interesting that the kanji is embossed on the blade unlike the deba I got in Kyoto in which it is engraved in to the metal. Have no idea if there is any significance to this

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The Aritsugu in Nishiki market (Kyoto) and Tsukiji (Tokyo) are two different enterprises. You can't get an A-type in Kyoto for example.

All of the traditional style single-bevel knives were engraved in the former iirc.

vern1 said:

Thanks as well. I suppose theres no harm in starting with the tung oil and moving to something darker if I don't like it. Where do you get Danish oil, never heard of it?

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Danish oils are available in any home store and most hardware stores. If you're on the mainland you can also order them from any woodworking supply house. Just stay away from any that are labeled as 'Glossy' (this applies to both tung and danish oils). These also usually contain a polyurethane additive.

Timthebeaver said:

The Aritsugu in Nishiki market (Kyoto) and Tsukiji (Tokyo) are two different enterprises. You can't get an A-type in Kyoto for example.

All of the traditional style single-bevel knives were engraved in the former iirc.

Click to expand...

The one i bought in Kyoto I actually got at one of the large dept stores. The deba is engraved and it is supposedly of the same steel as the A type ie has the same kanji for the steel type. Very confusing!

Thanks

mkriggen said:

Danish oils are available in any home store and most hardware stores. If you're on the mainland you can also order them from any woodworking supply house. Just stay away from any that are labeled as 'Glossy' (this applies to both tung and danish oils). These also usually contain a polyurethane additive.

Click to expand...

I have the tung oil from Minwax and the only other thing on the label says protective finish. It says apply, wait 24hrs then repeat "for additional body and gloss"

Again I guess I can try it and sand off if I don't like it

Thanks

The minwax tung oil is just fine, I use it all the time.

I like 50/50 pure tung oil & bulls eye clear shellac. Several coats will darken the handle plus waterproof it without the polyurethane type finish. Pure Tung without additives dries very slow. The clear shellac speeds the process. only thing is you have to mix it yourself.

Have used wood stains without any Sealant let it dry & wipe it than put on the mixture works well.