Maple, Cherry, or Walnut for Cutting Board

Notwithstanding the abysmal CAD/USD exchange rate (for us Canadians that is) I'm thinking of taking the plunge and getting a BoardSMITH since I have a reasonable USD PayPal balance because of a refund. I can't really seem to find a similar product that is so well regarded up here, plus I also like the idea supporting one of our vendors.

I'm pretty set on 16"x22" as I'll probably dread washing an 18"x24" (storage may become an issue too), although I'll probably discuss the likelihood of getting 2.5-3" instead of 2" depending on the cost.

The big question is Maple, Cherry, or Walnut? I'm leaning towards maple because it costs the least, fits in with most colors (which is good for future proofing as well), and is overall well regarded for cutting boards. Walnut looks amazing but is pricey, but may not "fit in" in the future. Cherry is supposed to be the best of the three for the blade's edge, and although it costs more than maple, is less spendy than walnut.

So I guess I wouldn't mind some input from some with experience… would maple be too tough for the ultra fine edges of high HRC (65ish) knives, is cherry that much better or do edges get stuck that much easier, etc.

I currently have hinoki which is quite soft, and they're the 3/8" - 3/4" thick ones depending on the size so don't feel very substantial, plus I only have up to roughly 12"x18". I also have an 18"x18"x2.25" JB edge grain maple with juice groove, but I don't use it that often and only really let my lower HRC Misono Swedish steel knives touch it. I plan to keep all of these ones, but want "the end grain board" as well.

Any input/feedback is appreciated.

I have BoardSMITH boards in cherry and maple, and a walnut board that John Loftis made before he became The BoardSMITH. I much prefer the maple board, even though it is the smallest of the three (14" x 18"). The surface shows fewer marks, and the sensation of cutting on it is somehow more pleasing to me than either the walnut or cherry.

Rick

I only have a maple board, which seems to be the classic wood for end grain. I think walnut and cherry are more visually appealing. I'm not sure if there are any significant differences in hardness to matter all that much on edges--I think all would work. I also think all of those woods have a classic look that would fit in a variety of kitchens.
Of course I know PT has more experience, so you may want to consider his input as well.
Since you're in Canada, have you looked at this maker? http://www.larchwoodcanada.com/products.php
I came across them a while ago in doing a search, but can't recall any first-hand reviews. I guess some people might find that too busy, but I think the boards look pretty cool.

I would not choose a board to fit in with possible future decor. Buy what you like best.

I have maple and walnut as well as beech and other things. I can't honestly say that they feel all that different in use and I don't baby them or my knives. Every board shows knife marks - to a degree that's surely the idea: the board is sacrificial. My oldest board by far is a thick, large walnut one and it still looks good after at least 20 years. My daily board is a 4 inch thick end grain maple pro board made in Italy. This is about 3ft by 2ft and ideal for me. I like thick boards as I am tall and kitchen worktops usually too low for me. A good board is an investment so buy the best!

I like the border boards, as they are a bit less $ than full walnut, cherry, etc., yet still look very nice. Some of the pattern boards are very striking as well. All-maple is a bit too much for my tastes when at the 16"x22" or bigger size; having a different border makes the board look less massive when it's on the counter.

I'm a face-grain walnut kind of guy, but do enjoy my end-grain maple, as well as my multi-wood end-grain board. I say go with whatever you like the look of the best. With that being said, I love a beaten up, slice marked board. It makes me feel like it's been well used, and put to work.

It sounds like maple is the way to go, that makes this easy. I have seen the larchwood boards and they do look interesting, but most of the pieces look small and virtually no stagger (reminds me of a JB board I returned due to a reasonable sized gap). I like the larger blocks on the BoardSMITH personally, but would probably order without the feet to have it reversible. I recently sent an inquiry thru the website, I'm thinking I may call in as a quick phone call can sometimes be more effective than trying to type everything. Thanks everyone

They are all great for cutting boards if well made. Get the one you like best.

tjangula said:

It sounds like maple is the way to go, that makes this easy. I have seen the larchwood boards and they do look interesting, but most of the pieces look small and virtually no stagger (reminds me of a JB board I returned due to a reasonable sized gap). I like the larger blocks on the BoardSMITH personally, but would probably order without the feet to have it reversible. I recently sent an inquiry thru the website, I'm thinking I may call in as a quick phone call can sometimes be more effective than trying to type everything. Thanks everyone

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I believe that smaller pieces are inherently more stable, as a small piece of wood will generally have less movement than a bigger one. And I don't know if a lot of stagger matters (in terms of durability). I think the main thing is that you don't have straight long seams running the length or width of the board.

That being said, I think Eric's sentence of "Get the one you like best," sums things up. Go with the aesthetics you prefer, in terms of wood type, size of blocks, and amount of stagger between blocks.

toddnmd said:

I believe that smaller pieces are inherently more stable, as a small piece of wood will generally have less movement than a bigger one. And I don't know if a lot of stagger matters (in terms of durability). I think the main thing is that you don't have straight long seams running the length or width of the board.

That being said, I think Eric's sentence of "Get the one you like best," sums things up. Go with the aesthetics you prefer, in terms of wood type, size of blocks, and amount of stagger between blocks.

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The larger the pieces the fewer glue joints you will have, hence stronger. The staggered pattern is a "running bond" and it most definitely adds to the strength (this is why it's used in brick laying).

Smaller pieces are more stable, but larger pieces generally make for a nicer board.

Taken to extremes you've got the Chinese style tree stump at one end and bamboo boards at the other. Stumps are very prone to cracking as they consist of one huge piece of wood, while bamboo boards are very stable due to being assembled from so many pieces but quite unpleasant to cut on as they contain so much glue.

I use the larch wood, it's held up beautifully over the past two years of daily use.

I forwarded off the PM the OP sent to John in Texas for the quote. He should be getting back to you very soon and if he doesn't let me know.

Here is why we use larger blocks in The BoardSMITH boards. First of all it is the look. I believe it just looks better. They are stronger given the way the grain is oriented. (Had a professional engineer help me with that.) And less glue lines make the board easier on the high quality edges you guys are so fond of. After being around the knife community for 10 years now I am very aware of how carefully most are with their knives and edges.

Thanks David, I have been in contact with John via email and we've basically settled on 16"x22"x2.5" in maple. I'm just waiting for the PayPal invoice.

tjangula said:

The big question is Maple, Cherry, or Walnut?

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Well, all of them of course :wink:











Our new BoardSMITH Crazy Board.

Cheers,
Oliver

Ya I saw that, it looks awesome. I ended up ordering the traditional maple and am looking forward to getting it.

Begs the question, how does one get the different size pieces to mesh together without any major gaps? I'm really diggin this abstract kind of look.

There was another post recently in the BoardSMITH forum, I haven't read it yet but it may give some info

MadDurrr said:

Begs the question, how does one get the different size pieces to mesh together without any major gaps? I'm really diggin this abstract kind of look.

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Have a look for some videos on YouTube by MTM Wood. He shows the whole process.

[video=youtube;G3uYaPgesp0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3uYaPgesp0[/video]

tjangula said:

Ya I saw that, it looks awesome. I ended up ordering the traditional maple and am looking forward to getting it.

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I think you'll be happy with the maple. I own a magnum, and a smaller black walnut(both Boardsmith), and to echo Rick's sentiment- the maple just feels a little better to cut on. If I didn't have them side by side, I probably wouldn't notice so much. But I do

brainsausage said:

I think you'll be happy with the maple. I own a magnum, and a smaller black walnut(both Boardsmith), and to echo Rick's sentiment- the maple just feels a little better to cut on. If I didn't have them side by side, I probably wouldn't notice so much. But I do

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Thanks, it'll be an upgrade from my current boards that's for sure.

Anyone know if the terms magnum and Carolina slab are just used describe the particular sizes? It seems like magnum was often found with 18x24 and Carolina slab with 16x22, but I only really noticed when viewing on my iPhone, so didn't really look at each size and species side by side.

Yes, just a size distinguisher. The magnum size gives a bit more working area then the carolina; if you have counter space for it I'd go that route.

Thanks for the clarification. I ended up going for the Carolina slab. I'd appreciate the extra space of the magnum, but probably would avoid using it as often due to it's size and having to clean it; the 16" will fit across my sink with a gap on either side so I don't flood my counter when washing.

The FAQ from the Boardsmith website led me to pick cherry, the softest of their woods. Maple seems to come close to the danger zone, for my taste. http://theboardsmith.com/boardsmith-faqs-2/

Is there a wood that is to hard?


Woods that measure 850 to 1600 on the Janka hardness scale will be good for a board. A measurement above 1600 will be tougher on the knife edges. A partial list contains: Ipe, Teak, Southern Chestnut, Bloodwood, Tigerwood, Purpleheart, Jarrah, Bubinga, Merbau, Hickory/Pecan, Acacia, most Bamboo and Wenge. Also, some manufacturers add a resin hardener to their boards which is extremely tough on knife edges.

What is the hardness rating of the woods you use?


On the Janka hardness scale maple rates 1450, the mahogany I use is 1220, black walnut is next at 1010 and black cherry is 850. But, the key here is the end grain construction which makes each very durable.


ALSO, from his cherry boards description: "Cherry is the softest of the woods I use and is reported by customers as the easiest on high quality knife edges."

I clean the magnum board in-place on the counter using damp paper towels, etc. It's pretty easy to do it without making a mess. It can also partially fit in a sink, so one end at a time can be cleaned, but I rarely clean it that way. Keep it oiled or waxed pretty well and cleaning is easy.

I'm sure this is common knowledge on this board, but I had some people over last week and we were cutting sashimi. Since everyone thinks its very easy I invited them to try. Most common thing I saw people doing was pressing after the cut. With a light touch it won't much matter which end grain of which wood you use in the normal range of softwood to maple, IMO. Using excessive pressure to finish the cut dulled the knife in a hurry on a softwood end grain board, I had to touch it up on the stones between trials….something I never need to do using it myself.

Strange as it may seem, conifers and its ilk are what I have been using when given a choice. I like a nice maple board, but I use stupid sharp knives and even though I rarely but kiss the board, a high pressure, high speed, stressed environment can often lead to less than perfect knife usage.
NOthing as sweet on your blade as a nice, thin piece of straight grained spruce. Not to mention cheap as hell, around here anyway.

Prior to deciding on a BoardSMITH there was a Canadian company in Toronto who makes custom butcher blocks, cutting boards, counter tops, etc. and I had tried contacting them about getting a pine or Douglas Fir board but after leaving voice/emails and no response I thought to get a BoardSMITH.

I have no true background knowledge in woodworking but I have heard that northern conifers grows slower and are more suitable for cutting on than some southern species? I would still entertain the idea of getting a huge one (like 24"x30-36"x4+") that I could use on top of my stove or chest freezer

I wouldn't go for Douglas Fir, the winter wood is really hard.

It's very frustrating for most hand tool woodworkers because of how difficult it is on tool edges….i expect a similar result to be had with knife edges.

aaamax said:

Strange as it may seem, conifers and its ilk are what I have been using when given a choice. I like a nice maple board, but I use stupid sharp knives and even though I rarely but kiss the board, a high pressure, high speed, stressed environment can often lead to less than perfect knife usage.
NOthing as sweet on your blade as a nice, thin piece of straight grained spruce. Not to mention cheap as hell, around here anyway.

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Same kind of idea as Hinoki boards. Makes sense to me.