- Joined
- Apr 1, 2013
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Heres a wa handle work in progress in the manner Ive been doing my last few handles. Sorry for the crappy basement pics. Hope you find it helpful
Materials used: African blackwood, copper spacer material, avonite, ½ oak dowel, knife. Missing from the picture: gorilla (epoxy) glue.
I slice the dowel with a chop saw, then file out until I fit the tang
After coring the blackwood, and drilling copper and avonite with ½ bit (all with drill press), I make sure they dry fit
The most time consuming part for me is fitting the tang correctly to the ferrule...well worthwhile if done right. I start with one small pilot hole only and work it out slowly with a small file
Clamped and glued overnight. I use a flat scrap piece of wood to make sure dowel and tang slot stay aligned during gluing
24 hrs later, I roughly sand it down (with 80 grit, on ridgid benchtop sander) until square/parallel with tang slot
Still at 80 grit, I taper the (square section) handle down toward the ferrule, then sand in the octagonal section using a 45degree wedge (sorry no pics)
I hand sand 120-400-600 progression
Then do 2 coats watco teak oil with a paper towel, amd wipe it dry after 75mins
24 hrs later, tang gets epoxied into handle
24 hrs after that, handle gets buffed using howards feed-n-wax with a buffing drill attachment (while knife is in vise)
Materials used: African blackwood, copper spacer material, avonite, ½ oak dowel, knife. Missing from the picture: gorilla (epoxy) glue.
I slice the dowel with a chop saw, then file out until I fit the tang
After coring the blackwood, and drilling copper and avonite with ½ bit (all with drill press), I make sure they dry fit
The most time consuming part for me is fitting the tang correctly to the ferrule...well worthwhile if done right. I start with one small pilot hole only and work it out slowly with a small file
Clamped and glued overnight. I use a flat scrap piece of wood to make sure dowel and tang slot stay aligned during gluing
24 hrs later, I roughly sand it down (with 80 grit, on ridgid benchtop sander) until square/parallel with tang slot
Still at 80 grit, I taper the (square section) handle down toward the ferrule, then sand in the octagonal section using a 45degree wedge (sorry no pics)
I hand sand 120-400-600 progression
Then do 2 coats watco teak oil with a paper towel, amd wipe it dry after 75mins
24 hrs later, tang gets epoxied into handle
24 hrs after that, handle gets buffed using howards feed-n-wax with a buffing drill attachment (while knife is in vise)