Sous Vide Original Anova Turning Off for no Reason

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So the title says it all. It could run for 10min or an hour. But for no reason it will just turn off. Frustrating since I am doing 72hr short ribs. I am planning on moving them from my small Cambro to a large cooler so if this happens in the middle of the night it's no big deal.

Anyone else having this issue?
 
Yup. I can't tell you how many times it just shut off for no apparent reason. Takes forever to heat up too.
 
Is it off off or on, but not doing anything? If mine takes any kind of a power hit it resets to awaiting input. "Off" would require a hard switch.
 
The green light turns red and thus the temperature starts dropping until I press the red button to change it back to green.
 
Well my wife figured out what is going on! Every time we ignite a burner on our stove the Anova shuts off. This is a new range for us - it's about a 10 year old Wolf all gas with non sealed burners that I picked up to replace our POC Viking. Love it so far but this quirk is annoying:scratchhead:.
 
Well my wife figured out what is going on! Every time we ignite a burner on our stove the Anova shuts off. This is a new range for us - it's about a 10 year old Wolf all gas with non sealed burners that I picked up to replace our POC Viking. Love it so far but this quirk is annoying:scratchhead:.

I feel funny mentioning this to an electrical contractor but it was mentioned somewhere ANOVA dropped the wattage of the heater from 1100 watts to 800 watts on their Precision units because the 1100 watts heater was close to stressing the 10 amp circuits in older homes and buildings.

120v * 10 amps = 1200 watts

There have been reports of people having their lights flicker as the heater cycled on and off and other similar issues where people moved their Anovas to different circuits.

My guess is the igniter on your stove is creating enough load to cause a voltage drop and resetting your unit (assuming your on a 10 - 15 amp circuit) ?
 
I found the link from a review...

http://m.thesweethome.com/reviews/best-sous-vide-gear/

"We’ll get more into the heating element of the Anova Precision Cooker in a bit, but the company deliberately dropped it from 1100 W to 800 W, which will apparently make it less likely to trip the circuitry in your kitchen. Most modern kitchens should have a 20 amp circuit, which should allow for to 2400 W at 120 volts without tripping—more than enough for the full power heater and whatever else you’re running in the kitchen. But older buildings will sometimes run as low*as 10 amps, which means an 1100 W heating element is already pushing close to the maximum of 1200 W, and adding anything to that same circuit will cause trouble. Even more modern kitchens will sometimes have outlets set for 15 amps, even if the circuitry can handle more. Depending on how and when your kitchen was wired, 1100 W may have been pretty close to the maximum load it was designed for on a single circuit, and turning on anything else may trip it. Reducing the wattage means you’re less likely to accidentally lose power while cooking, which means fewer failed cooks and less food waste."
 
so if this happens in the middle of the night it's no big deal.

Generally speaking, if my sous vide should lose power over night while I'm cooking 72 hour short ribs, I become Very concerned about bacteria growth. I can't afford the risk so depending on the time frame I'm either blanching them in 85°C (or higher) water for 2 to 3 minutes or I'm trashing them. Sadly I've trashed a LOT of short ribs.
Here's a tip- if you open the bag and smell something in the range of sour milk/aged cheese to poopies, you've got a risky cut of tender meat there.

Regarding Anova, I've bought a total of 15 (ten original and 5 newer) for the different restaurants. Shhhh, don't tell them that though. I've do far returned 2 that have simply stopped working. Here's how that went down:

I went to their website and a window popped up offering live assistance.
I mentioned the issue
I received a ticket# and later an email regarding that
They emailed me 2 fedex packing slips (pre paid)
I mailed out the two faulty circulators
Later that day, after fedex picked up the boxes and Anova was able to see this via tracking info, I received tracking info for the 2 replacements that shipped the same day.
Fast fwd two days I'm opening my 2 new circulators.
Money out of pocket? None.

If this were polyscience, this would have been a nightmare. You call, you pay for shipping, you pay a standard $80 just to have them Look at it, then you pay either an exorbitant amount to fix or they offer you a small discount on a refurbished unit which will end up costing you (depending on which model) 20% less than you originally paid.
And this takes a few weeks to boot.

Needless to say, I'm a big fan of Anova. Give me good customer service and I become your biggest fan.
 
Sorry for not getting back about this, but better late than never. My second post was not clear enough, so apologies!

rogue108 a few small corrections:D.

The National Electrical Code has required dwelling units, since before I started as a helper in 84, two 20 amp circuits for the kitchen and dining room (that's two circuits total not 4). Most houses I have worked in going back to the 50's have this. The dining room is allowed to be part of these circuits because dish warmers were very popular back then. Garbage disposals, dishwashers, and built in microwaves are not allowed on these circuits.

The smallest wiring size I have ever seen used, and I am going back to knob and tubing days of the very beginning of the 20 century was 14ga which is rated at 15amps. But back then as far as I can tell K&T wiring was only used for lighting and the light switches. I don't think there was a need for any receptacles because there was nothing that needed plugging in.

I wired my own kitchen and I went a little overboard:laugh: I have 3 20 amp circuits for the counter plugs and another for the microwave. I have dedicated 15 amp circuits for the disposal, dishwasher, fridge, and lighting. So my problem is not that the circuit is tripping or overloaded, I can be defrosting something with the Anova so no heat is on and if I turn on a burner the Anova shuts down, or maybe a better description would be reboots. The ignitors are sending out an electrical pulse that is strong enough to wack out the Anova.

I plan on contacting Wolf about this to see what they have to say.
 
I figured you would of had this part covered but I threw it out there because when work on other's people things you sometimes don't think about your own.

It's also one of those things I never thought about until I tripped a circuit in my kitchen with my ANOVA connected but later found it was unrelated.
 
Interesting thing but i can't see an ignitor sending out a pulse that could do that... have you bothered trying to run an extension lead from another Power Point elsewhere to see if it still does it with the ignitor then.
 
Same thing for me took a total of 3 days to fix the problem didn't even have to send them the faulty one they just shipped a new one no questions asked.
 
I would have to agree with the guess that the electrical pulse from the starter of the stove is tripping the Anova, seeing as how it is a soft stop makes me believe the safety mechanism stopped the heater. Maybe put a silicon counter protector under the pot or use a plastic bucket for SV.
 
DDP that's a good thought but I am using a plastic cambro or a large cooler when SVing. I did experiment and it looks like if it's 5ft away from the ignitor the problem goes away.

We are starting my daughters science project this weekend so as a side project I'm going to make a Faraday cage to see if that helps - just for fun. Never heard back from Wolf.
 
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