Installing Wa Handles
- Thread starter Dave5440
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Dave, I've seen a few short clips on YouTube but they mostly deal with using the burn method. Without trying to sound rude, let me say, this is a pretty straight forward deal.
1. Cover your blade using paper and painters tape
2. Cover your handle the same way 100% leaving only the opening in the ferrule where the tang is to fit
3. Dry fit your handle to make sure it sits straight and mark (using a sharpie) the top and bottom so that you don't flip it by accident and end up with a crooked handle
4. Clean the tang using a rough grit sand paper and then wipe down with acetone
5. Put on a pair of latex or like type gloves
6. Mix epoxy and fill the hole 3/4 of the way (depending on the epoxy, this may vary)
7. Place the blade into the handle making sure that everything is straight
8. Using a clamp or any other method, place the handle so that it knife is vertical with the tip pointing up so that the epoxy settles right and if it overflows, it pours onto the tape
9. Once the epoxy sets and dries, sand down any overflow at the ferrule
10. Remove the tape and paper
Hope this helps, if not, I may just make a video.
Regards,
MM
1. Cover your blade using paper and painters tape
2. Cover your handle the same way 100% leaving only the opening in the ferrule where the tang is to fit
3. Dry fit your handle to make sure it sits straight and mark (using a sharpie) the top and bottom so that you don't flip it by accident and end up with a crooked handle
4. Clean the tang using a rough grit sand paper and then wipe down with acetone
5. Put on a pair of latex or like type gloves
6. Mix epoxy and fill the hole 3/4 of the way (depending on the epoxy, this may vary)
7. Place the blade into the handle making sure that everything is straight
8. Using a clamp or any other method, place the handle so that it knife is vertical with the tip pointing up so that the epoxy settles right and if it overflows, it pours onto the tape
9. Once the epoxy sets and dries, sand down any overflow at the ferrule
10. Remove the tape and paper
Hope this helps, if not, I may just make a video.
Regards,
MM
Dave5440
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That helps a lot, I haven't got the handle yet should be the next couple of days. It's a
Tojiro D Shaped Handle that i'm putting on my first attempt at knife making. Is the ferrule part of the handle
or is it 2 pieces(handle/ferrule)
Thanks again
Tojiro D Shaped Handle that i'm putting on my first attempt at knife making. Is the ferrule part of the handle
or is it 2 pieces(handle/ferrule)
Thanks again
The ferrule (bracelet) would be the top part of the handle, typically constructed of horn. It should be quite simple if the tang slot (hole) is predrilled for you, if not, it adds a couple of extra steps and makes it a bit more difficult, though not impossible.
Dave5440
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Apparently it's predrilled, but I don't know the dimensions other than the height 10.75mm
Dave5440
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Home Depot has some cheap and very handy microrasps, made by Sheffield, I believe. If you need to make the tang hole wider on handle/ferrule, they work really well.
PS. Go Leafs!
At this point I haven't hardened it yet so I can change the tang size quick easily
goodchef1
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Camera shy and unmotivated.
can't do anything about the motivated part, but many of these types of videos do not show faces anyway. Would be good for makers and for inquisitive people like us to see how its done.
I posted some pics of the way i do it in this thread:
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php?2244-Tang-slot
However this method assumes that you are making the handle yourself, and it is not the trad way to do it. I used a 1/2 inch dowel as this was the width of the tang and left room in the handle for me to shape it.
On Carters youtube channel there is a video as part of his Japan visit series that shows how handles are burnt in, if you are thinking of using this approach.
The key things to ensure are that the handle goes on straight and in line with the knife, with the entry point as neat as possible.
Would be cool to see a video of other peoples methods, also some pics of the knife and handle that you have would be cool
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php?2244-Tang-slot
However this method assumes that you are making the handle yourself, and it is not the trad way to do it. I used a 1/2 inch dowel as this was the width of the tang and left room in the handle for me to shape it.
On Carters youtube channel there is a video as part of his Japan visit series that shows how handles are burnt in, if you are thinking of using this approach.
The key things to ensure are that the handle goes on straight and in line with the knife, with the entry point as neat as possible.
Would be cool to see a video of other peoples methods, also some pics of the knife and handle that you have would be cool
rulesnut
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Grrrr!!!
I know that this isn't what you're looking for but I thought that you'd enjoy seeing this anyway. Here's how your handle is made or very close to how it's made.
[video=youtube;Faq8fG7emYQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Faq8fG7emYQ[/video]
http://fxcuisine.com/default.asp?language=2&Display=241&resolution=low&page=2
Dave, what do they use to fill up the tang slots? I have heard sawdust and something else.
I know that this isn't what you're looking for but I thought that you'd enjoy seeing this anyway. Here's how your handle is made or very close to how it's made.
[video=youtube;Faq8fG7emYQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Faq8fG7emYQ[/video]
http://fxcuisine.com/default.asp?language=2&Display=241&resolution=low&page=2
burnt in ones dont use anything to fill in... others can be burnt in and sealed with epoxy
I've heard that Daniel O'Malley at EpicEdge recommends using sawdust when doing a burn in but from my reserach I've never seen this done in practice. It appears as though the holes are drilled, then burnt in with a tang shaped object, and then the just the heated tang itself is inserted for the last 5-10mm or so of burn in. This sets the handle on real tight, you'd be very surprised how tight actually. Like Jon said above, it's either burn in or epoxy.
Also, some get the tang slot (opening at the top) filled in with flexible wood putty too.
yeah... i do that too
I did spend a pretty decent chunk of time training with the craftsmen doing handle installation in japan... everyone i trained with did something to seal the tang area (even though the took the time to show me both ways). The thing is they still do the burn in and then seal after that. You'd be surprised at how well it works and how easy/fast it is.
I did spend a pretty decent chunk of time training with the craftsmen doing handle installation in japan... everyone i trained with did something to seal the tang area (even though the took the time to show me both ways). The thing is they still do the burn in and then seal after that. You'd be surprised at how well it works and how easy/fast it is.
SpikeC
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I always burn in the tangs on engraving tools, and it does indeed make for a secure junction when done right. I would drill an undersized hole to almost full depth and then burn the tang in. This left very little open at the entry point.
