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Thread: What kind of edge do you put on your edc?

  1. #11
    I like 120x with a swipe on a ceramic rod to remove the burr. Perfect edge for seat belts, etc

  2. #12
    the latest blade is CE and the teeth are 400 grit front the PE part is 9 micron and the back is A45 gator belt (yep its 50/50 grind with 100/0 edges )

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by johndoughy View Post
    Why do you ask, might I ask? What do YOU do for your EDC?
    Well, I have a cheap Buck and a few Swiss army knives that have followed me around for a lot of years (~20). They used to just get a silicon carbide oil stone treatment. When I started getting involved in this forum, I started going to super fine edges and they are okay for like two cuts and then it's over. So I started getting toothier and they worked better. Recently, I got a Del neck knife. It takes a very fine edge that performs like crazy for quite a while. The recent edc thread has got me thinking of upgrading my folders to some better steel but I have little or no experience with some of these ultra tough, abrasion resistant steels and what experience I do have, is with blades optimized for kitchen cutlery which is harder. So, I thought I'd tap the knowledge base here.

    @ everybody: Thanks for the info so far.
    @ Butch: ***? I don't even understand that? is that English?

  4. #14
    if your curious about good pocket knives (im either too yung or too old to get the lingo, pretty sure its too young) ive had a Kershaw for about 3 years, and it hardly EVER leaves my side. it takes a great edge, and keeps it, came sharp OOTB too. i put about a 35 degree edge on it, take it up to the same level i take my kitchen knives (.3 micron) and it performs really well for a pocket knife. it doesnt have the edge retention of a high end kitchen knife, but its a softer steel. check out Kershaws speedsafe series, i have the Tanto

  5. #15

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    Don't discount those Bucks. A friend of mine in the UK sharpens knives fo' money using the chisel sharpening techniques taught to him by his grandfather who did fine finish carpentry/marquetry, including the marquetry and inlay on the Queen's railroad car back in the day. He competes in cutting comps, but his demo knife is an old Buck 110 and he shows off by standing a thin Rizla cigarette paper on its end and cutting it in two with one swipe.
    Quote Originally Posted by tk59 View Post
    Well, I have a cheap Buck and a few Swiss army knives that have followed me around for a lot of years (~20). They used to just get a silicon carbide oil stone treatment. When I started getting involved in this forum, I started going to super fine edges and they are okay for like two cuts and then it's over. So I started getting toothier and they worked better. Recently, I got a Del neck knife. It takes a very fine edge that performs like crazy for quite a while. The recent edc thread has got me thinking of upgrading my folders to some better steel but I have little or no experience with some of these ultra tough, abrasion resistant steels and what experience I do have, is with blades optimized for kitchen cutlery which is harder. So, I thought I'd tap the knowledge base here.

    @ everybody: Thanks for the info so far.
    @ Butch: ***? I don't even understand that? is that English?

  6. #16
    here is the blade
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  7. #17
    Senior Member goodchef1's Avatar
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    My Microtech is hard to do on stones, I go the mousepad way with microfilm, then green stuff. Works like a charm. cm154 steel keeps and holds an awesome edge. Btw, I found this in the middle of the street while I was walking home.


  8. #18
    Covexed on 120 grit belt, Deburred on leather

  9. #19

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    I use my EDC daily, it is a Del necker. I use a 1000 grit diamond stone, then light strop. It is hair poppin sharp and is still toothy enough to cut everything i have tried. I have used mine for countless things..including whittling....often and i have only sharpened it a few times.

  10. #20

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    I like mine toothy as well, use it mostly on boxes, rope, those plastic tie straps and self defense so being able to cut threw leather biker jackets helps ( just kidding)
    I have mostly customs so I try and keep the edges as true to original as posable.
    Emersion CQC is what I carry the most. I keep it sharp by using a power leather strop or a felt wheel. Once it gets to dull to strop I go to a norton India or soft Arkansas. If that won't do the trick I ether send it back to the maker to sharpen. in the case of one of one of my Microtech or benchmade I may carry I ether send it out to a pro or if I'm feeling brave I go to a 500 or 220 belt or a diamond plate. I dont know if they ( M.T. / B.M.) i don't know if they even take them back to "fix up" but from my past dealings with there customer service i doubt it. I lost a screw to one of my M.T. And them bustards 1) use a screw that only they have, and need a special tool to for. 2) have never once returned one of my emails asking how to get a replacement screw. Trouble with sharpening most EDC's is the mix of the crazy hard steels they use and the small blade that in some cases the edge is wavy or some other crazy design ( I stay away from those). Other thing is that you only get a few good sharpening's out of a folder. Once the edge is to wide it starts to get tricky thinning them as you start to change the proportions of the blade that are important to how it opened and closes. One would need to take the knife apart and work all the surfaces to keep the knife working good and looking good/new, need knife maker skills for that.
    But short answer is diamond plate or belt.

    Side note: I want a Bill Burke E.D.C.

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