20% off Toyama

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Cashn

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Just in case anyone missed it, coupon code is : Toyama
 
I went there right away but, the 210 and 240mm Gyuto's were already sold out except for the Damascus versions. Pretty nice offer if your looking for a Toyama.

Has anybody used the Damascus version of the Toyama gyuto?

Jack
 
The Damascus Toyama looks very similar to the Watanabe Kintaro-ame. Given the relationship between the two makers this is very understandable. If I were looking for a Damascus gyuto I would buy the Toyama without hesitation.
 
tjangula said:
The Damascus Toyama looks very similar to the Watanabe Kintaro-ame. Given the relationship between the two makers this is very understandable. If I were looking for a Damascus gyuto I would buy the Toyama without hesitation.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately while I was sitting wondering the 210 Damascus was purchased. Snooze and you lose ;-(
 
tjangula said:
Go for the 240! The giant nakiri is also tempting. I got a sujihiki as I have a mukimono and have been impressed
Click to expand...

The Damascus 240 looks great but, I already have two 240 Gyutos and a 210 and I'm just a home cook. I like my T-F Nashiji 240 but I could give up my Konosuke HD2 240 Gyuto perhaps. I really like my Fujiyama 210 in B2 steel and I have been looking for a Kato or Shig. so the 240 Damascus Toyama is tempting but I can only have so many knives before my wife gets a bit upset ;-)
 
jacko9 said:
I went there right away but, the 210 and 240mm Gyuto's were already sold out except for the Damascus versions. Pretty nice offer if your looking for a Toyama.

Has anybody used the Damascus version of the Toyama gyuto?

Jack
Click to expand...

For those who missed out, it looks like Maksim has added some more Toyama kasumi knives… 210&240 gyuto, 270 Suji back in stock and discount still works
 
Wat stock handles have a plastic ferrule unless I'm mistaken while Toyama has buffalo horn. And I'll take an octagonal handle over d shape anyday.
 
From what I've seen, I haven't noticed much of a difference with the Watanabe vs Toyama handle ferrule, but I've ordered custom Watanabe pro and only have one Toyama at the moment. The only thing is the Toyama mukimono handle didn't seem to be treated (i.e. gets wet, but grippy) and it also had a mothball like smell (I've read about this before too). I'm going to swap for the octagonal that came on my Tsukasa Hinoura petty so no big deal.

Here are some for comparison:
9D8936A0-B78D-4116-BE43-067FF3E551FD_zpsvxypvry0.jpg

From L-R: Tsukasa Hinoura 150 petty, Toyama 135 mukimono, Watanabe 330 kensaki Yanagi, Watanabe 300 sakimaru takobiki.
 
panda said:
You don't like d handles cause you're lefty. As far as ferrule, I don't care what its made of as long as its flush with the handle.
Click to expand...

On the flush part (not sure if you mean properly glued or no ledging). I've heard from a couple guys that sanding is almost considered expected on handles when they are moving to areas with different humidity levels (for non-stabilized woods, such as ho wood)

This means the ferrule and handle should definitely be fully glued together though often times a "ledge" forms from the wood contracting or expanding. I have even found this on the well regarded Shigefusa handles. Takes about 10-15 minutes with some 400 grit-> 800 grit sand paper to make the handle super flush. Then I tape off the wood and polish the horn back to a glossy finish.
 
I'm also a lefty and actually like right handed d handles mounted for right hand use when held in my left hand. I've had some installed for a lefty and didn't care for the feel
 
Agree. The line on a d handle is anywhere from 2/3-3/4 the way up the handle so when it's flipped it's too low and feels off. No one makes lefty d handles, they just flip a righty and it sucks.
tjangula said:
I'm also a lefty and actually like right handed d handles mounted for right hand use when held in my left hand. I've had some installed for a lefty and didn't care for the feel
Click to expand...
 
TheDispossessed said:
Agree. The line on a d handle is anywhere from 2/3-3/4 the way up the handle so when it's flipped it's too low and feels off. No one makes lefty d handles, they just flip a righty and it sucks.
Click to expand...

I find that the line creates the perfect spot where my fingers wrap around and rest from the other side (counterclockwise), and my palm of my thumb sits perfectly (clockwise) in a pinch grip.
 
Maksim has recently added a giant 270mm Damascus Gyuto and (lefty) Kasumi 300mm yanagi and it looks like 20% off will still work for a few more hours!

If I didn't pick up the 300 suji I would get the yanagi.
 
tjangula said:
Maksim has recently added a giant 270mm Damascus Gyuto and (lefty) Kasumi 300mm yanagi and it looks like 20% off will still work for a few more hours!

If I didn't pick up the 300 suji I would get the yanagi.
Click to expand...

I'd consider picking up a Toyama Damascus Gyuto but, the 270 is just too large for my shared counter space - with the 20% off I should have grabbed the 210 or 240 Damascus.
 
panda said:
You don't like d handles cause you're lefty. As far as ferrule, I don't care what its made of as long as its flush with the handle.
Click to expand...
mikedtran said:
On the flush part (not sure if you mean properly glued or no ledging). I've heard from a couple guys that sanding is almost considered expected on handles when they are moving to areas with different humidity levels (for non-stabilized woods, such as ho wood)

This means the ferrule and handle should definitely be fully glued together though often times a "ledge" forms from the wood contracting or expanding. I have even found this on the well regarded Shigefusa handles. Takes about 10-15 minutes with some 400 grit-> 800 grit sand paper to make the handle super flush. Then I tape off the wood and polish the horn back to a glossy finish.
Click to expand...

This is something I know Panda is probably totally impatient about, and so probably skipped over the 2nd paragraph. Not sure if I've ever seen a plastic ferrule flush with the wood, but why not.

Oh yeah. We all like a flush wood-ferrule handle, but even if they're at first like that then a few days later they're not, and then they are again - so maybe it's dry, or drying or the weather's changed, etc.

Ferrule and handle glued - Are they? I didn't think they were, traditionally.

However, MTran, I'm interested most in your grit figures - I've polished up some horn ferrules nicely in the past, but have forgotten grits I'd had on hand. What were they, 1k? 2k?
 
Asteger said:
This is something I know Panda is probably totally impatient about, and so probably skipped over the 2nd paragraph. Not sure if I've ever seen a plastic ferrule flush with the wood, but why not.

Oh yeah. We all like a flush wood-ferrule handle, but even if they're at first like that then a few days later they're not, and then they are again - so maybe it's dry, or drying or the weather's changed, etc.

Ferrule and handle glued - Are they? I didn't think they were, traditionally.

However, MTran, I'm interested most in your grit figures - I've polished up some horn ferrules nicely in the past, but have forgotten grits I'd had on hand. What were they, 1k? 2k?
Click to expand...

Not sure on the glue part but I have had handled where the ferrule and wood main handle had a gap which can't be fixed with sanding.

I use #400 to sand the wood since it is fast enough but doesn't leave deep scratches in the horn. I wouldn't go much lower or lower at all.

I then tape off the wood (since I like the #400 finish) and tape off the blade to not scuff it up and hit the horn with some #800 and if I'm feeling it needs it some #1000. This will leave the horn a bit lighter and a bit dull.

To finish it off I take some fiber glass polish and buff it up to polish. Horn responds really well to fiber glass polish =)
 
anybody know actual edge size on Toyama 270 gyuto? how reactively on the damascus one?
really tempt to score that 270 Damascus one before sales end..........



Thanks,
Mike
 
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