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Thread: Black snot and steel splinters #2

  1. #51

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    Above price mention is ex vat to be clear.

  2. #52

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    I have a fancy project in the works and the handle is ready; musk ox, stabilized bog oak and nickelsilver at a handrubbed 12000 grit. I had to buy a full musk ox horn to be able to get blocks for this handle. It will pair up with a 240 gyuto in HHH feather damascus, and get a ringed gidgee saya.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BKkv75ZjWPg/

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDalman View Post
    I have a fancy project in the works and the handle is ready; musk ox, stabilized bog oak and nickelsilver at a handrubbed 12000 grit. I had to buy a full musk ox horn to be able to get blocks for this handle. It will pair up with a 240 gyuto in HHH feather damascus, and get a ringed gidgee saya.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BKkv75ZjWPg/
    Soo cool.

  4. #54
    Senior Member DanHumphrey's Avatar
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    How does your UHB20C compare to Hitachi Blue? I mean, I've looked at the charts on ZKnives, but how does it compare, subjectively, in sharpening and edge-holding? What color patina does it take when exposed to onion? Is it still restricted to ~210mm for you?
    actually named Mike

  5. #55

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    I have to answer a bit later Mike. Just wanted to put this here, gotta go

    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  6. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanHumphrey View Post
    How does your UHB20C compare to Hitachi Blue? I mean, I've looked at the charts on ZKnives, but how does it compare, subjectively, in sharpening and edge-holding? What color patina does it take when exposed to onion? Is it still restricted to ~210mm for you?
    I haven't tried a hitachi blue I liked so I can't say really. I mean that the blue I tried felt like it was poorly heat treated so I don't want to judge based on that. Uhb20c is actually a 1095 equivalent, no fancy stuff on paper, but I've seen three batch analysis from uddeholm and carbon have been on the upper limit or a hair above, and they've been super clean, so I guess that that combined with a decent HT I do, makes it act more like a good white 2, or vetter, I want to believe of course
    I've gotten some feedback in line with my own impression on reactivity, quite quick to take a grey patina and settle down. Especially if I have given it a ferric chloride wash and polished that off. Seems to calm the initial reactivity. I believe I can do up to almost 400 edge now 👍
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  7. #57

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    And I should explain the video a bit better... What I'm evaluating here is just how the first 10 mm of the edge-bevel feels like, since I tried hollow grinding just by the edge up to shinogi. The rest of the chuka is warped pretty badly and that affects it, vacuum wedge up on the right side. Since it warped I used it for this edge experiment, will keep it for myself.. And maybe my speaking doesn't make total sense, I woke up super early, 3 am, and decided to go work 12 hours, this video is just when I got home haha.
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  8. #58

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    I cooked a little soup and am getting a little excited, Bäbefore I put a 10k chosera edge on and stropped onleather. I'll get carrots, and do that test Mikedtran did, and reach out to hear comparison, ofc it's possibly not a 100% relieble, but anyway. I may also do another video and see if I can show it in a more impressive way.
    After that the cleaver goes to my swedish tester Robin. And a fresh passaround knife will be made.
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  9. #59
    Senior Member DanHumphrey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDalman View Post
    I haven't tried a hitachi blue I liked so I can't say really. I mean that the blue I tried felt like it was poorly heat treated so I don't want to judge based on that. Uhb20c is actually a 1095 equivalent, no fancy stuff on paper, but I've seen three batch analysis from uddeholm and carbon have been on the upper limit or a hair above, and they've been super clean, so I guess that that combined with a decent HT I do, makes it act more like a good white 2, or vetter, I want to believe of course
    I've gotten some feedback in line with my own impression on reactivity, quite quick to take a grey patina and settle down. Especially if I have given it a ferric chloride wash and polished that off. Seems to calm the initial reactivity. I believe I can do up to almost 400 edge now 👍
    Thanks! A grey patina is fine; the thing that kills me is my Tanaka going to ugly orange if it's next to an onion, no matter how fast you wipe it down. Grey is what the knives I used growing up turned.

    Also, part of what I was wondering was about sharpening - I almost prefer the theoretical difficulty of Blue, because I'm too heavy-handed for White. Maybe. Anyway, I seem to put a better edge on Blue, more easily, than White.
    actually named Mike

  10. #60

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    Just a bit of update. My grind consistency is where I want it, and I'm looking to finish the list of customs and after that work in small batches and sell as they get done. So.. Up my productivity game, not take customs for a good while or indefinately. Handles are most likely going to be wa construction reindeer and masur birch as "standard" for the batches.
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

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