Anyone rehandled a TF Nashiji knife?

I've had enough of the awful Ho wood plastic ferruled D shape handle that came with the knives. Before I can attempt to remove the existing handle I need to know how they are installed and what's holding the handles in place? If anyone has rehandled a TF gyuto can you let me know if its fixed in with epoxy.
I'm planning to stabilize the blade in a vice and knock the handles off with a block of wood and mallet. Any other suggestions that offer a little more finesse?

If it's not epoxied it'll come off easy enough; this way avoids clamping of the blade.

[video=youtube;ZajZh8aps6Q]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZajZh8aps6Q[/video]

If it is epoxied in place, you'll probably need to resort to chisels...

Are you planning to fit a replacement yourself or send it to a pro?

If it's epoxied you'll probably have to resort to the hammer and chisel.

mkriggen said:

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I've done this by mounting the handle to a work bench (I didn't want to clamp the blade so as to not risk bending it) and putting some shims under the blade so the impact wouldn't cause it to resonate.

EDIT: can't seem to get picture to show

Epoxy will easily soften with a little heat.

andur said:

Epoxy will easily soften with a little heat.

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Explain how you do that without damaging the blade or handle

TF does not use epoxy on any of his knives, ive rehandled three and owned and handled more. Itll come right off with hammer and wood.

wbusby1 said:

TF does not use epoxy on any of his knives, ive rehandled three and owned and handled more. Itll come right off with hammer and wood.

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Thats good to know. There's what appears to be a soft beeswax material at the blade/handle junction which I assume acts as a barrier to water getting inside. I do have a hot gun and I'm thinking about sandwiching the blade between 2 blocks of wood, carefully securing it in a vice and then warming the handle with the hot gun. I'll try to tap the handle off with a mallet and a piece of wood.

Corradobrit1 said:

Thats good to know. There's what appears to be a soft beeswax material at the blade/handle junction which I assume acts as a barrier to water getting inside. I do have a hot gun and I'm thinking about sandwiching the blade between 2 blocks of wood, carefully securing it in a vice and then warming the handle with the hot gun. I'll try to tap the handle off with a mallet and a piece of wood.

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Try tapping it off using the technique in the video first. I will caution you that the blade can slip out of the vise with the method you are considering, even if you think it is secure. Ask me how I know.

I agree that it's quite simple to just try by holding the blade against a block, and hitting the block with hammer. I've removed a few handles this way (without heating), and once the handle moves a little bit, the rest is easy. You'll know in a minute if it's going to work or not.

osakajoe said:

Explain how you do that without damaging the blade or handle

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Hair dryer?

osakajoe said:

Explain how you do that without damaging the blade or handle

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The handle of my Konosuke Fujiyama was glued in very well but heat from an infrared patio heater on the lowest setting heated the knife and handle up enough to soften the epoxy. No danger to the blade or handle. Heat guns and other heating options might work too I'd think. Sticking the knife in an oven?