Why there are always stripe marks on kitchen knives

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aichmophobia

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Why there are always stripe marks on all of my kitchen knives? Because they were all Machine-Rolled? I tried everything to polish it, still not able to get mirror polish, sigh..



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Mirror finishing usually requires removing all marks and scratches via a very low grit stone and from there a longer-than-ussual progression into very high grit stones. It takes time, and patience.
 
The "brushed" finish also helps hide imperfection in finish or scratches from using.

You can't just simply polish out with metal polish (I see the can in your pic?), all you are doing is polishing the inside of the scratches, you need to go lower if you want to remove them.

I am removing the vertical lines from my Zwilling-Kramer 52100 10" chef's knife and it's not fun… Start at 100 grit, then 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 wet/dry sand paper; then on to 3um and 0.5um 3M PSA Mylar sheets; may finish with some 0.3um Cr2O3. I don't expect it to be perfect but it will be an improvement, and at about 61 HRC should hold up okay compared to softer cladding on some knives. The 100 is taking FOREVER, I'm thinking once I get the original ones out it should go a bit faster.
 
What you see are grind/polishing marks. To remove them completely is often quite some work an may yield poor results if not done with care - in particular with monosteel knives. I woul in general prefer semi - matt finish as mirror polish is not easy to maintain (and I do not like the look of it that much). The best is of course a nice kasumi finisj :)
 
Thank you all for your great advice, now understand they are grinding marks, I should try lower grits first, many thanks. :)
 
If you are going to polish whole blade, using automotive type of sandpaper should be easier.
 
mirror polish is better for expensive custom knife which has artistic value more than using knife. On a using knife it will show scratches easily. If you try to polish your knife after it has a handle and bolster you will not be able to reach the area near the handle.
 
It seems to me that most of the advice is politely trying to discourage you from this task.
 
tjangula said:
The "brushed" finish also helps hide imperfection in finish or scratches from using.

You can't just simply polish out with metal polish (I see the can in your pic?), all you are doing is polishing the inside of the scratches, you need to go lower if you want to remove them.

I am removing the vertical lines from my Zwilling-Kramer 52100 10" chef's knife and it's not fun… Start at 100 grit, then 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 wet/dry sand paper; then on to 3um and 0.5um 3M PSA Mylar sheets; may finish with some 0.3um Cr2O3. I don't expect it to be perfect but it will be an improvement, and at about 61 HRC should hold up okay compared to softer cladding on some knives. The 100 is taking FOREVER, I'm thinking once I get the original ones out it should go a bit faster.
Click to expand...

But... what happens when it gets a patina??
 
I want to see this latina in your mirror blade :bigeek:
 
When you're going through the grits during sanding, make sure your scratch marks are going in different directions for every grit. 100 grit should oppose the rough grind marks (never in-line or even close to in-line with the grind marks), and go until there are absolutely no rough grind marks left (get a uniform 100 surface). Then go to 220, opposing direction to the 100, repeat for 320, 500, etc, etc, till you get to wherever you want.

Nick Wheeler's sanding video on YouTube explains better than I could ever. Do what he says in the video and you'll be in a good starting point.
 
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