Which cutting board would you get of the following?

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monkiboy

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I currently don't want to spend too much on a new cutting board but will need to get one with a new Gyuto I'll be getting.

I've narrowed it down to the following choices which are all around 18x12 inches unless otherwise stated, which one would you get? Or do you have another one that is better for the same price? I would love a boardsmith but it's out of my price range, =).

John Boos Chop-N-Slice Maple Cutting Board - $35
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063QBFE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

John Boos Reversible Maple Cutting Board - $60
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063QBDQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Shun Hinoki Cutting Board - $60
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXAVCFO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Kodai Hinoki Cutting Board 20x12 - $80
https://www.cuttingboard.com/hinoki-cutting-board-large-20-x-12-x-1/

Burl & Blade Walnut Cutting Board 16x12 - $65
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHIQQJQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Some of my thoughts:
- if I go with one of the John Boos boards, is it worth spending an additional $25 to get the reversible version versus the chop-n-slice? I don't see a big difference.
- similarly, if I go with one of the Hinoki options is it worth spending an additional $20 to get the Kodai one vs the Shun one
- I like how the Burl & Blade Walnut one looks but board seems to be on the smaller end

Thanks!
 
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I would go for none on those a get a end-grain, the biggest that fit your kitchen and that you can afford.
 
My favourite board to cut on is edge grain Acacia, I have end-grain Maple and end-grain Walnut but I always find myself preferring edge grain as the knife edge doesn't sink in.
 
Lol, if Boardsmith endgrain fits within my budget I would have gotten it already. Unfortunately, it's not.

I also have troubles finding a good endgrain board that is within $70-$80. I feel like at that point I'm better off getting a $50-$60 reputable edge grain board, correct?
 
Sometimes you can find end grain boards are your local costco or sams club. My last board purchase was quite a large 1.75-2in thick end grain maple board, price was like $40.
 
Of the boards you cited I would go with the Kodai Hinoki. An inch thick will help reduce warping. "Prime" day is coming soon - you might catch a good deal then.
 
monkiboy said:
I currently don't want to spend too much on a new cutting board but will need to get one with a new Gyuto I'll be getting.

I've narrowed it down to the following choices which are all around 18x12 inches unless otherwise stated, which one would you get? Or do you have another one that is better for the same price? I would love a boardsmith but it's out of my price range, =).

John Boos Chop-N-Slice Maple Cutting Board - $35
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063QBFE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

John Boos Reversible Maple Cutting Board - $60
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063QBDQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Shun Hinoki Cutting Board - $60
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXAVCFO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Kodai Hinoki Cutting Board 20x12 - $80
https://www.cuttingboard.com/hinoki-cutting-board-large-20-x-12-x-1/

Burl & Blade Walnut Cutting Board 16x12 - $65
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHIQQJQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Some of my thoughts:
- if I go with one of the John Boos boards, is it worth spending an additional $25 to get the reversible version versus the chop-n-slice? I don't see a big difference.
- similarly, if I go with one of the Hinoki options is it worth spending an additional $20 to get the Kodai one vs the Shun one
- I like how the Burl & Blade Walnut one looks but board seems to be on the smaller end

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009OWEC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

New it feels like the finish is a little rough - it used to catch on and kind of tear up my cloth when wiping down in use. Now the side that's been used is more smooth and I can wipe it down without that problem, and there's a noticeable texture difference with the side I don't cut on. I'm guessing just hitting it with some fine sandpaper would alleviate the issue. I oiled the crap out of it before I started using it, and it sucked down a pretty good amount.

I chose this over a Boos because the price is affordable, and the Boos boards have a lot of not so great reviews. You do have to consider that the problem is the user, not the product, but the Boos boards have enough negative reviews from people that claim that they care for the boards and it still fell apart on them quickly that I was hesitant to buy one.

The Sweet Home included the Shun Hinoki in their review - http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-cutting-board/ - they didn't like it because it stained and retained odors. I picked one up when the price dropped to $59.95 (it used to hover at $79.95), but haven't actually tried it yet. It's much thinner, and way lighter than the Michigan Maple of the same surface dimensions.
 
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I would choose a hinoki, and save for a Boardsmith board in the future. At home, I have those two boards; if I'm doing meat and vegetables, I'll use my smaller hinoki for the protein (easier to get it to the sink for thorough scrubbing) and use the larger Boardsmith board for the rest of the prep. The tandem fits my needs well.
 
Id get the hinoki but note that it is light and may slide around on the counter (put a lightly dampened cloth underneath). I'm also in Cananda and my first good board was the shun hinoki (wish I knew if Kodai at the time because the extra 2" length would be nice) have a BoardSMITH too but the shipping is expensive because of the weight. I have a custom end grain coming soon from a local company in Winnipeg… free shipping lol
 
Another one to consider that's in a similar price range is a Hi-Soft board if you're willing to consider synthetics. (Shown here at Korin.) It's a fairly soft plastic board, easy on your wrists and on your knives. You still have to wash it by hand and it will show some cut marks over time, but it's a really nice board.

I like mine enough that I'm considering getting a second one (looks like they're on a little sale.)
 
I have a smaller Shun Hinoki I use for sushi/sashimi. It does stain and I can't say yet about retaining odors, but I have to say I'm not fully used to it's natural pine scent (pretty strong), so I'm glad it's not my primary board.
 
There's a ebayer by the name of 227wood that makes very decent end grain boards at a great price. You could check him out. Have one of his walnut board and it was great. Although I don't have a boardsmith to compare with but hey it works.
 
"biggest that you can fit" is good or bad advice depending on how you intend to store (or permanently place) it, and whether you want to be able to quickly rinse it - a big one is awkward to wash down under the tap, tends to splash you with water, and uses up a lot of towel dryness.
I'm one of these people who want any utensil no longer used either in the dishwasher or cleaned AND DRIED and back on its hook NOW. Not because I love cleaning but because I hate it. Wet things standing around are just grunge magnets.
One massively big board is certainly great to have around for pastry work though. Also, having a few dishwasher safe polys around for peeling over/handling unsanitary raw ingredients/... is useful.

PS, a few screw hooks along one side of a board, and a matching row on a wall or shelf, make boards easy to hang without drilling big holes in the business surface.
 
I'm with you on this one life-al-la-cut, are you a Virgo too?

LifeByA1000Cuts said:
"biggest that you can fit" is good or bad advice depending on how you intend to store (or permanently place) it, and whether you want to be able to quickly rinse it - a big one is awkward to wash down under the tap, tends to splash you with water, and uses up a lot of towel dryness.
I'm one of these people who want any utensil no longer used either in the dishwasher or cleaned AND DRIED and back on its hook NOW. Not because I love cleaning but because I hate it. Wet things standing around are just grunge magnets.
One massively big board is certainly great to have around for pastry work though. Also, having a few dishwasher safe polys around for peeling over/handling unsanitary raw ingredients/... is useful.

PS, a few screw hooks along one side of a board, and a matching row on a wall or shelf, make boards easy to hang without drilling big holes in the business surface.
Click to expand...
 
daveb said:
Of the boards you cited I would go with the Kodai Hinoki. An inch thick will help reduce warping. "Prime" day is coming soon - you might catch a good deal then.
Click to expand...

LOL Prime Day. Amazon is already broken.

Even if you found a deal, you're going to get the message:
"Add to cart failed... Retrying..."
 
Not at all.

But yeah, I was rambling - just wanted to question the one oversize fits all idea :)
 
The Kodai Hinoki is worth the few extra $ because it is thicker. They are light so can wash under tap. Easy on your knives.

The Gecko silicone grip strips are sanitary for stabilizing your board.
 
+1 for hi-soft. Hi-soft is the truth. Or if you can find rubber boards at your local kitchen supply, that is also much better than edge grain. Break away from the Wood Cutting Board Cult my friend. You only have to close your eyes and jump.
 
Which would be best for working on with usubas, mukimonos and other sub-12 dps edges - non-warping, non-abrasive but also hard enough not to trap the edge easily?
 
If you are looking to get your dollar's worth don't buy anything Shun, better still, just don't buy anything Shun period.

LifeBy, if you are worrying about burying your Usuba or any sharp knife in a board, maybe you best not have any decent knife till you learn how to use a sharp one.
 
I made the mistake of getting the shun hinoki boards a couple of years ago, thinner than I would've thought and overpriced IMO.

I actually recently ordered some of the Kiso hinoki boards from cuttingboard.com and got a nice discount! I won't give up my end grain maple like BoardSMITH or the custom 12x20 made locally by Beard Brothers woodworking, but these should be nicer than the cheap/thin shun hinoki boards
 
@rick alen not "burying it in the board". More like "easily developing grooves from rougher work, that might grab onto more delicate tools."
 
Damned.. now im starting to get interested in the hi-soft boards.. i have a big maple boos , but i dondt like to hit on hard wood.. i had a paper thin soft manaita thing i use for Sashimi and not wrecking my doi yanagiba..
this korin offer looks damned good.. brrrr ;)

thanks for the infos, daniel!
 
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