Mac Pro 8.5" vs Itto Ryu 210mm

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chuck_d

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Jul 24, 2016
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LOCATION
What country are you in?

USA

KNIFE TYPE
What type of knife are you interested in (e.g., chef’s knife, slicer, boning knife, utility knife, bread knife, paring knife, cleaver)?

Chef's knife/(wa-)gyuto

Are you right or left handed?

Right

Are you interested in a Western handle (e.g., classic Wusthof handle) or Japanese handle?

It doesn't matter

What length of knife (blade) are you interested in (in inches or millimeters)?

About 8.5"

Do you require a stainless knife? (Yes or no)

No

What is your absolute maximum budget for your knife?

~$175 US dollars

KNIFE USE
Do you primarily intend to use this knife at home or a professional environment?

Home only

What are the main tasks you primarily intend to use the knife for (e.g., slicing vegetables, chopping vegetables, mincing vegetables, slicing meats, cutting down poultry, breaking poultry bones, filleting fish, trimming meats, etc.)? (Please identify as many tasks as you would like.)

The vast majority of work will be done on vegetables. There will be occasional work on meat, but almost never breaking down a whole chicken or the like. If we will be cutting something with bones, we will use another knife to protect this blade. We'll use a cheapo old knife for cutting through frozen cookie dough.

What knife, if any, are you replacing?

We currently only have inexpensive knives. This is our first high quality chef's knife.

Do you have a particular grip that you primarily use? (Please click on this*LINK*for the common types of grips.)

Mostly use pinch & hammer grips, depending on what I'm doing.

What cutting motions do you primarily use? (Please click on this*LINK*for types of cutting motions and identify the two or three most common cutting motions, in order of most used to least used.)

Depending on what I'm doing, I'll use all of these motions at one point or another. Chopping onions, rocking or walking across herbs, slicing melons, etc. Honestly, we're still developing our knife skills and so cannot say which techniques we prefer and use most.

What improvements do you want from your current knife? If you are not replacing a knife, please identify as many characteristics identified below in parentheses that you would like this knife to have.)

Sharpness and Edge Retention are important, as are comfort and ease of use.

Better aesthetics (e.g., a certain type of finish; layered/Damascus or other pattern of steel; different handle color/pattern/shape/wood; better scratch resistance; better stain resistance)?

Sure, I'd love a Damascus knife at some point, but not right now. Handle doesn't matter as long as it fits well in our hands. I'd love to have a custom Kramer chef's knife and a custom Bloodroot paring knife as my two primary blades. One can dream, right? Maybe in 4 years I'll just have 2 Blood Root Blades, for both chef & paring. I have an idea for how I want to design the handle, and over time I'll figure out exactly how I want the blade too. But that's all dream stuff. I'd like this knife to look nice, and I think the Itto Ryu looks better, but that's not the primary concern, just a side benefit. The Mac is by no means ugly.

Comfort (e.g., lighter/heavier knife; better handle material; better handle shape; rounded spine/choil of the knife; improved balance)?

It's gotta be comfortable enough to use every day for pretty much all our kitchen tasks. In both my bigger hands and her very small hands.

Ease of Use (e.g., ability to use the knife right out of the box; smoother rock chopping, push cutting, or slicing motion; less wedging; better food release; less reactivity with food; easier to sharpen)?

We'll definitely be using it ootb, but we will be getting it sharpened regularly. I have a ceramic hone which we will use before every cooking session, and then have a professional sharpen as necessary. Since we will get it professionally sharpened, ease of doing so isn't important. I'm sure a professional could handle either of these blades just fine. Ideally we'd only need to sharpen once a year, perhaps twice at most. If we're lucky, we could even go longer than a year between sharpening services, but expecting to sharpen once a year. Of course everyone wants a knife that doesn't wedge and releases food well.

Edge Retention (i.e., length of time you want the edge to last without sharpening)?

Hopefully, with regular honing on a ceramic hone, we would only need to get it professionally sharpened about once a year.


KNIFE MAINTENANCE
Do you use a bamboo, wood, rubber, or synthetic cutting board? (Yes or no.)

We have an acacia end grain cutting board as our main cutting board. A red polyethylene board for raw meats, and a white polyethylene board for onions, garlic, shallots, etc. Pretty much everything besides raw meat and smelly onions & garlic will be cut on the acacia wood board.

Do you sharpen your own knives? (Yes or no.)

No. But we do have a ceramic hone which we will use before every cooking session.

If not, are you interested in learning how to sharpen your knives? (Yes or no.)

No, not at all. I don't have the budget for stones, or the time to master the skill. I have enough craft hobbies that I don't really need to add knife sharpening to the list. My business partner is a professional chef, so we will either have him sharpen our knives when needed or have another professional do it.

Are you interested in purchasing sharpening products for your knives? (Yes or no.)

No, but we have a ceramic hone. The black Mac 10.5" ceramic.


SPECIAL REQUESTS/COMMENTS

We are debating between the Mac Pro 8.5" and the Itto Ryu 210mm (links below). These are two quite different knives, one semi-stainless French chef's knife with a western handle, the other a white #2 gyuto with a Japanese handle. In the end the final decision will come down to how the two feel in my and my fiancée's hands, but I am interested in hearing any feedback this forum might have to influence our decision. If the feel of each knife in our hands isn't enough to make a decision by itself, then we will have to consider other differences between these knives.

Although the Itto is a gyuto, if you watch the videos in the link, you can see it's got a decent belly for rock cutting. I think both of these knives will work well for a variety of cutting techniques, and as it will be, for a time, our only decent chef's knife, that's what we want. Both of us need to work on our knife skills and so will be experimenting with grips and techniques.

I know my fiancée will not like the more reactive (and thus higher maintenance) nature of the Itto Ryu's steel, but that's not going to be a major issue, as I want to watch a natural patina develop anyways. I have prepped her on what we can and cannot cut with both these knives, and that's no problem. But the Itto's cladding is semi-stainless, so it's not really going to patina that much over the majority of the blade anyways, not like if it was all W2.

I've already held the Mac, and it's a wonderful knife. My main complaint is the balance is handle heavy. We'll be trying out the Itto in a few days to see if its balance is more natural for us, and then making our decision.

Our decision is down to these two knives. After some time we will be getting a second chef's knife, at which point other options in carbon steel or stainless like the PS90 or UX10 might come into play, but for now it's going to be one of these 2 blades. I know that people are going to have more experience with the Mac knives, maybe none with the Itto Ryu. But if you could just give advice based on the specs in that case, it would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Mac Knife:
http://www.macknife.com/kitchen/pro...k-85-professional-series-8fq-chefs-knife.html

Itto Ryu:
Not allowed to link to the site, but if you google Itto Ryu 210mm gyuto you should find link to a site known as CKTG for a description. Instead I'll link to the videos on youtube.
[video=youtube;bqyWjdzKr7w]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqyWjdzKr7w[/video]
[video=youtube;SMZcBDxbVVk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMZcBDxbVVk[/video]

Thanks for any replies.

Cheers,
chuck_d
 
id go with the mac pro... you wont be disappointed. mac (aus8 pretttty sure) is soft enough to withstand ceramic honing. Itto ryu probably not going to hold up so well to honing, though I didn't bother to check the HRC. Good luck, like I said MAC are great knives you won't be disappointed.
 
id go with the mac pro... you wont be disappointed. mac (aus8 pretttty sure) is soft enough to withstand ceramic honing. Itto ryu probably not going to hold up so well to honing, though I didn't bother to check the HRC. Good luck, like I said MAC are great knives you won't be disappointed.

Thanks for the reply & info. At what level of hardness do you recommend not honing a knife? Does the core material play a role in that cutoff value? It looks like both knives are rated at the same Rockwell Hardness of 61. Although the only place I have found the Mac hardness listed is in an Amazon review.

My understanding was that is the point of ceramic hones, to stand up to the hardness of Japanese steel. I have the Mac ceramic hone, link below, which reads, "The black ceramic material is a new type of ceramic that is much harder than traditional white ceramic. This means it will quickly realign an edge and works well on harder Japanese steel knives which tend to have a higher Rockwell (hardness)."

I understand what you're saying about me being happy if I choose the Mac knife. My business partner is a chef and he really likes Mac and recommended it to me, hence it being at the top of my short list. We're going to get to play with the Itto in a couple days. You've given me more to think about and research until then. Thank you.

http://www.macknife.com/kitchen/pro...-10fq-black-ceramic-honing-rod-w-grooves.html
 
It's not just about being hard enough to "stand up to Japanese steel"; it's a matter that when the steel is that hard it doesn't just "fold over" like softer steels and honing it with a rod tends to do more harm than good.

At least, that's my understanding, I'm certainly wrong about things here sometimes.
 
It's not just about being hard enough to "stand up to Japanese steel"; it's a matter that when the steel is that hard it doesn't just "fold over" like softer steels and honing it with a rod tends to do more harm than good.

At least, that's my understanding, I'm certainly wrong about things here sometimes.

Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to understand where this transition occurs from "you should regularly hone," to "you should never hone." And is that transition different for different core materials? Are there people who have damaged hard knives while using proper technique on a ceramic honing rod? Or is it likely that these knives were damaged by using too much pressure, improper angles, honing too much, etc. And that the softer steels were just more forgiving of their bad technique?

I do like to understand these things on a deeper level, and see some empirical evidence. Like how I mentioned the only place I've seen the Mac MBK-85's hardness mentioned is in an Amazon review. It's a data point, but not the most reliable one, and I would like to confirm that information.

If the Itto is too hard to hone, then the same would be true of the Mac. Unless the core material is a factor. But people are honing this Mac knife without damaging it? If so, then I would assume the same could be done the Itto. Just go slow, use light pressure, and only a couple strokes per side.

This kind of attention to detail can drive my fiancée nuts sometimes. It takes me a long time to make some decisions, when undoubtedly I often over-think some things. But it's fun to me, I'm a science nerd. It's not enough for me that such-n-source says X, I like to know why they say X.

Thanks again for the advice and info.
 
Reactive carbon would have a higher carbon content than what I suspect Mac uses for their stainless steel, thus it should be more brittle. There is little agreement in this community about honing, I think most people here may even hesitate to hone the Mac, I had a chefs series Mac that I honed regularly but if I recall it's a bit softer than the pro series
 
Reactive carbon would have a higher carbon content than what I suspect Mac uses for their stainless steel, thus it should be more brittle. There is little agreement in this community about honing, I think most people here may even hesitate to hone the Mac, I had a chefs series Mac that I honed regularly but if I recall it's a bit softer than the pro series

Thanks again for the patient replies. I suppose I am asking some questions that have been discussed in more depth already, but there is so much material to get up to speed on, and I have been spending many hours every day for over a month trying to educate myself. I've read pretty much every thread that results from a search for board cream and board butter. And I've been trying to get through the entire patina thread because it's awesome to look at those photos. Honing is apparently a weak spot in my knowledge, and I'll have to start digging through those threads over the next couple weeks.

As for the steel used in the Mac Pro Series, most of them use the Original steel, with a couple exceptions. The Chef Series appears to be made with that same steel. It is the Superior series that has a different kind of steel, with sub-zero tempering, along with the Ultimate Series. I gave my MIL a Chef Series knife for Christmas, the 7.25" HB-70. Ironically, I got the smaller knife with the intention of better fitting her smaller hands, but now my FIL uses the knife the most and I would have been better off getting them the HB-85.

My intention was to get the MBK-85 for myself. But after handling it, it feels blade heavy in my hand. I'm going to get to play with the Itto tomorrow, so we'll see if I like it any better. I expect that the Japanese handle will push the balance forward.

So for someone who is not going to be able to get a stone anytime in the foreseeable future, how would you suggest he maintain the Mac (or Itto) blade? Just use it and when it feels dull take it to a professional sharpener? Will these blades really hold their edge for 6-12 months without any honing? And then, assuming that I would be able to get a stone, would there be a single cheap stone that would be sufficient for maintaining the edge, that's as simple as honing? I mean I can hone a blade, holding the rod on the cutting board with a few gentle swipes. But I have neither the space nor the time for learning to sharpen knives, and my fiancée would not be pleased with me if I were to go out and buy stones to do so.
 
Just out of curiosity, what do you think is the "space" to sharpen knives? I have a single combo stone with a little plastic bin that some food came in to soak it in, and a towel to put it on while I sharpen. The whole thing is less than the size of two boxes of tissues. Learning involved less than an hour of watching Jon's videos and the knives can probably be kept sharp in 5-10 minutes per week if done weekly. Is there any knife that will stay meaningfully sharp for 6-12 months?
 
That's about the space I was thinking, but that isn't the main issue. I'm under a moratorium from buying any more kitchen toys by SWMBO.

Sure, one can learn the process by watching a few videos online. This is quite different than having the feel for it. Education is no substitute for experience and vice versa. My business partner being a chef means I have easy access to a free and skilled knife sharpener, but I don't want to be bothering him once a week to maintain my knife. I'd rather just bring him my knife a couple times a year and maintain the edge between sharpenings with the hone I already own and have experience using. This would be the ideal maintenance process for my life.
 
Neither blade is likely to hold a good edge for 6-12 months, but it depends on your type of usage and frequency and technique. And what level of edge degradation you are okay with before resharpening.
Have you verified your that your business partner sharpens his own stuff? Finding good sharpeners otherwise can be hit or miss depending on where you live.

Price range that the Mac occupies has some other good choices as well, even other stainless. It's a bit difficult to meaningfully compare the Itto-Ryu to the Mac because they are so different it's just more of a different paths thing at that point. You've remarked on the handle heaviness of the Mac, wa-handles will certainly push that to more of a blade forward balance. Then there are options like this http://www.knivesandstones.com/tanaka-vg10-nashiji-gyuto-210mm-with-custom-octagonal-bubinga-handle/ with semi custom wa-handles that could potentially strike somewhere in between (wish I could comment with personal experience on one of the K&S rehandled Tanakas...)
And https://www.japaneseknifeimports.co...oducts/gesshin-uraku-210mm-stainless-wa-gyuto just a very solid option in your price range
But also part of your balance perception comes from the fact that you held the 210mm/8.5 inch knife. The next length up 240mm/9.5-10 Mac I'm thinking would run pretty neutral.

Loaded balsa or leather strop might be a possible easy touch up option if you go for a knife with core steel that tends towards micro-chipping vs bending.
 
Yeah, he does sharpen his own stuff, he uses a stone everyday after a full days use, or every other if it was a light day. He also let's me play with his knives and see what I think of them in my hand. I would like to get a wet stone, but that's not happening anytime soon for me. I just cannot go buying more kitchen gear without bringing down the wrath. I also don't have the time to practice a new skill with two young businesses to look after.

As for the longer length, that is what I think will be my next knife purchase. But we're talking a couple years before I'll be able to get that. If it was just for me, I would have gotten the 9.5", but this to share with my lady, who has much smaller hands. Really this will be her knife, which we will share until the time comes that I can start spending money on kitchen toys for myself again. Like everything in life, compromises must be made. This decision is not totally in my control. If I weren't sharing I would definitely have gone with the longer blade, but I will be able to get that in 1.5-2 years. 3.5 max (I hope). But this is why it is pretty much down to a selection between 2 knives. I could try to sway the decision towards another blade, but it is probably not worth the battle.

Stropping is something I definitely need to read up on. If it is cheap, I may be able to just pick it up. But I have no experience with it or knowledge about it, what makes a good strop, what makes a bad strop, etc. And we already have that Mac black ceramic hone. I don't even know what loaded balsa is.

I appreciate everyone taking their time to guide me towards information. I have a lot to learn and y'all are being quite helpful.
 
Mac PRO MBK85 has never let me down, used to keep one at the in laws for when I cook there. Did a little bit of "customization" by rounding spine, choil, and easing the corners of the bolster. Thinned ever so slightly and refinished. Love the knife to be honest, no flash whatsoever but great weight/balance, very comfortable handle, and takes a real beating for a japanese knife. Think HrC is about 58 if I'm not mistaken. Edge retention is just fine for home use. And nice flat profile to boot.

Only complaint is that it costs too much for the amount of knife you're getting. For significantly better value you might want to check out the Tojiro HSPS. Another western handled j knife but with a better alloy, PM steel. Maybe more brittle, so mind your knifework:

http://www.knivesandstones.com/tojiro-powdered-high-speed-steel-gyuto-chef-240mm-f-521/

[Edit] just read about the honing, could be problematic with the higher HrC tojiro.
 
The Mac definitely seems to be the consensus. I really don't think many people own or have used the Itto Ryu, and I suppose there is a reason for that. Whether that reason is they are bad, or just small or new, I don't know. The Mac is definitely a proven brand with lots of vocal proponents. There may come a time when I need to grab this knife and work the line in a pinch. But I'm not going to let that have undue influence on the decision in choosing a shared knife which will likely end up being hers in the long-run. Like any job, I just work with the tools I have when I need to.

Mac PRO MBK85 has never let me down, used to keep one at the in laws for when I cook there. Did a little bit of "customization" by rounding spine, choil, and easing the corners of the bolster. Thinned ever so slightly and refinished. Love the knife to be honest, no flash whatsoever but great weight/balance, very comfortable handle, and takes a real beating for a japanese knife. Think HrC is about 58 if I'm not mistaken. Edge retention is just fine for home use. And nice flat profile to boot.

I'd love to see photos of the customization you did. That sounds intriguing. The people I know that own a Mac really do love it. And while being honest about its shortcomings, still end up recommending them.

Cheers,
chuck_d
 
The Mac Pro line is great. It's everything you'll ever "need" out of a chef knife/Gyuto. In an alternate universe I may have stopped my j knife exploration with Mac and found other hobbies to pursue instead. :)
 
I really like the look of this knife, with the long wooden handle and just that little ferule before the blade, and rounded spine. Of the two you linked, just based on looks, I am a fan of this one. Bookmarked.

I have the Blue2 version of the knife (with a different handle) and it is glorious. I don't have anything nicer to compare it to, but it is great.
 
Tough decision. The Mac is definitely a known quantity. My chef likes them, Keller endorses them, lots of committed fans. But the balance just feels off. Both she and I like the feel of the Itto more. If I pinch grip the Itto, then open up my hand it will balance right on my forefinger. But it's an unknown, not many people have them, so hard to get feedback on them. The carbon steel core will require a little more attention to maintain. But I feel like our hands are telling us to go with the Itto. In the end isn't that what matters most?
 
Definitely wash and wipe dry promptly for the Itto-Ryu. Also the description is confusing, but it seems like an extra layer of iron cladding was added on top of the stainless cladding for the kurouchi, hand hammered part? Be attentive with keeping that wiped down and dry when the kurouchi abrades off in time.

With luck you might get that upgrade to 9.5 inch sooner than you think. If she has existing or bourgeoning knife skills the 9.5 inch chefs knife might not be a problem down the line. My hands fit size small gloves, but after getting into Jknives, the upgrade from 210mm to 240-270 was a relief, just felt more useful in terms of blade profile.
If you're handy, a decent strop can be made for cheap and there are definitely threads on this forum on people who have done that. Otherwise buying a leather strop plus abrasive/polishing compound might get you into the price range of like almost a King waterstone, though buying just a leather strop by itself is probably under 20$? Balsa is a type of wood, another medium that can be loaded with abrasive compound. Not expensive, either.
 
seems like youve already made your decision which ultimately should come down to your own gut feeling anyway. ive been wanting to try the itto myself, just never pulled the trigger. let us know how you like it.

keep it dry and tell your wife no dishwasher or twisting motion and things will be ok.
 
Definitely wash and wipe dry promptly for the Itto-Ryu. Also the description is confusing, but it seems like an extra layer of iron cladding was added on top of the stainless cladding for the kurouchi, hand hammered part? Be attentive with keeping that wiped down and dry when the kurouchi abrades off in time.

With luck you might get that upgrade to 9.5 inch sooner than you think. If she has existing or bourgeoning knife skills the 9.5 inch chefs knife might not be a problem down the line. My hands fit size small gloves, but after getting into Jknives, the upgrade from 210mm to 240-270 was a relief, just felt more useful in terms of blade profile.
If you're handy, a decent strop can be made for cheap and there are definitely threads on this forum on people who have done that. Otherwise buying a leather strop plus abrasive/polishing compound might get you into the price range of like almost a King waterstone, though buying just a leather strop by itself is probably under 20$? Balsa is a type of wood, another medium that can be loaded with abrasive compound. Not expensive, either.

Thanks for all the info. I remember balsa from making bridges in physics class and the like, but just haven't heard of loaded balsa. I'll continue my searching and reading of this forum to learn more about it and stropping. Initially we were planning on just getting the Mac, but after handling the Itto we may go with that instead. I really do like the way it looks and more importantly how it feels. Your right though, it could be sooner that we get more knives, as we are recently engaged so we've got some gifts coming our way. If I could only get one thing for our wedding though, it would be the Primo XL. I've been wanting that grill for half a decade or more now. But for several Christmases and birthdays in a row I've been getting things like Griswold cast iron, Staub dutch oven, etc. So I've been told no more kitchen toys for awhile.
 
If I could only get one thing for our wedding though, it would be the Primo XL. I've been wanting that grill for half a decade or more now.

Get the bloody ceramic cooker / have had (various sizes) of BGE's and they have been the best (save J Knives) thing I have ever bought ... buy it or just let a bunch O' friends/family know that is what you want ... low and slow plus hot and fierce are perfect! Not worth loosing another 10 years IMO ... caveat is I did keep my 22.5" weber around while it died a slow death wondering why it never got used!

Congratulations BTW! For the J-knife purchase not the marriage thing ... :justkidding:- for Both!

TjA
 
I hope y'all don't have knife sets on the registry list...you're already looking at knives that are better performance than the majority of big box knife brands.

How are you enjoying the Staub dutch oven?
 
Thanks guys, I feel super lucky to be with a woman who truly loves me as much as I love her. After a little more discussion it looks like we may actually be open to a different knife than these two. Still discussing it, and between the two it appears that the Itto is currently winning out because of the feel in our hands. What we like about it is the balance, with the wa handle, it's got a bit of belly for rock chopping, you can actually get pretty high rocking it up. I also really like the look. What I don't like is the fact that there is so little information available about it except for on one site, and I've started to have some questions about trusting the info on that site after more reading.

So, *if* we were to consider a third option, what recommendations would y'all have beyond the ones already mentioned in the thread above? Knowing that the wa handle pushing the balance forward is key, and that I really like the patina photos I see, so stainless isn't a necessity yet something like the Itto with a carbon core and (semi-) stainless cladding would also be fine compared to all carbon, and we want a knife that can handle all cutting techniques reasonably well as we develop of knife skills more. And we want to keep the price range at/under $150. We may still end up going with the Itto, but perhaps there is something that fits this description that we'd go for instead.

And yeah, the Primo is definitely happening. I want to design and build my own table to hold it as well. With a built in sink fed by food grade garden hose through a filter setup, an ice box for keeping drinks cold, a GFCI power strip that can be powered by an outdoor extension cord to power a few lights, charge phones and run a Bluetooth speaker box, and a wifi blower for controlling and monitoring temps from my phone, all on casters for mobility. That's the dream at least, but we're definitely getting the Primo. I currently have a Weber and will not get rid of it, they are the second best grill the world. But once I get the Primo I'm going to start making everything in it, my bread, pizzas, maybe even my scratch brownies. It's an oven as well as a grill & smoker.

The Staub is awesome. I love it. So does my chef, he likes Staub more than Le Creuset. I use it to bake bread, a little cornmeal on the bottom and keeps the humidity up rather than baking in the whole oven. It's gorgeous too. And it's got those baisting nodules on the underside of the lid, the black interior is supposed to be better for getting that ug, what's the word when you first put the meat in before the stock, it's late here and we have no AC so we can't sleep. But I've never used the white Le Creuset interior so I cannot compare. We have the 8 quart and I highly recommend the size, go big if you can. With so little space in our kitchen, it and my Griswold skillets and griddle all sit on the kitchen table along with the ice cream maker and wok. But at least the Staub and Griswolds are beautiful and I like showing them off.

So yeah, back to the knife. Looks like we're going with the Itto, unless there is something that you'd recommend in those parameters above that we could checkout. Not sure I can sell the idea, but maybe.

Cheers!
 
I'd suggest a Tanaka Blue2 from James at K&S, but he seems to be out of stock in 210mm. You could try asking him when he expects more to be available.
 
I'd suggest a Tanaka Blue2 from James at K&S, but he seems to be out of stock in 210mm. You could try asking him when he expects more to be available.

Thanks. Yeah, I was noticing that K&S seemed to be out of stock for a fair number of things. He's overseas this week (according to the K&S homepage), so I'm guessing that might mean in Japan setting up a resupply.
 
Thanks. Yeah, I was noticing that K&S seemed to be out of stock for a fair number of things. He's overseas this week (according to the K&S homepage), so I'm guessing that might mean in Japan setting up a resupply.

That might be. A lot of knife vendors have websites full of every product they've ever sold, even if some will never come back in stock (Buttermilk still has entries for half a dozen unique Dalmans that will never be sold again, even if they get others in to sell). That said, the Tanakas do go in and out of stock frequently at K&S, so you should be able to get one in the near future.
 
You could consider the Masakage Yuki http://knifewear.com/collections/masakage-yuki/products/masakage-yuki-gyuto-210mm (it *should* auto-toggle to USD but check the currency just in case). Stainless clad, white #2 core steel
This one is slightly above your budget at $180 but includes a friction-fit saya, https://www.japaneseknifeimports.co...uchi-210mm-stainless-clad-blue-super-wa-gyuto quite a thin knife, light, great cutter
Keep a small rust eraser <$10 if you go with something carbon, just in case you get some residual water droplets or something that happens on occasion, quick to take off smal surface rust
 
You could consider the Masakage Yuki http://knifewear.com/collections/masakage-yuki/products/masakage-yuki-gyuto-210mm (it *should* auto-toggle to USD but check the currency just in case). Stainless clad, white #2 core steel
This one is slightly above your budget at $180 but includes a friction-fit saya, https://www.japaneseknifeimports.co...uchi-210mm-stainless-clad-blue-super-wa-gyuto quite a thin knife, light, great cutter
Keep a small rust eraser <$10 if you go with something carbon, just in case you get some residual water droplets or something that happens on occasion, quick to take off smal surface rust


I like the looks of that Masakage, and it's less expensive. The one thing I noticed that I didn't especially like what the spine isn't rounded. I'm not sure how much that actually impacts the feel, if those squared off edges will feel sharp... But the choil looks nice and rounded, and a good heel height. We'll see if I can check this out, so it'll be either this or the Itto.

Thanks for the links. I'll definitely need to pick up a rust eraser either way, I assume that's on Amazon cheap with prime delivery.
 
This is super easy to do yourself.

What do you use? A file? Or something more flexible? I certainly came to the right forum, I've been nonstop reading threads here, so much shared knowledge here, but that also means a lot of information to digest for a newcomer.
 
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