Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: Steel

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Posts
    431

    Steel

    On demand; steel talk!

    My favourite steels are, as many of you know, aeb-l and uhb20c. They are both fairly low alloy, super fine carbides. With the right HT, these are the steels I like best to use myself. And general feedback is that they do provide a very good mileage.

    But this is indeed very much a personal preference. Depending on the user and sharpener. Maybe these steels are better for the way I use a kitchen knife, with a fairly light hand, and a low angle highly polished edge. As soon as I don't have razor sharpness I will hit a strop, and these steels work well for that. Sharpenability is important to me, and fine edge stability, as I like a thin edge.

    I have tried alot of other steels and can say that for me, the higher alloyed with larger carbides and wear resistance, isn't for me.

    I do however custom make, so if you know what you want, let me know and you'll get a time and price. Sourcing steel is no trouble, but you'll be paying the extra cost since with aeb-l and uhb20c I buy in large quantitys to get a good price. And really to get a superb HT is about care, so I'm fairly confident you'll be happy, if you know you like a certain type of steel grade.

    Easy for me to source locally; any tool steels(sld-d2/skd-a2/O1/highspeed vanax like m4 etc..), uddeholm have their versions. Elmax, rwl34 (like cpm154), damasteel.
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Posts
    431
    To be clear; for myself i experience worse edge retention in the higher alloy steels, and I think that can simply be attributed to carbide fallout. Sure this can be dealt with by a coarses edge and microbevel, but I don't think they're worth that tradeoff. And many higher alloy steels are not very nice to sharpen, this can of course be offset with diamonds. Just not my cup
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Posts
    431
    Oh and I have a blue 2 core HHH damascus san mai (random pattern hardening clad in 1080/15n20) 340 gyuto blank available. Phew that's a long sentence.
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  4. #4
    Senior Member DanHumphrey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    518
    Hmm. So of course I'm going to chime in, being the guy who started this. What's the damage, price-wise, for one of those steels like 1.2442 or (I assume this would be frightful) Aogami Super? I'll look around on the ZKnives charts and see if there's anything from Uddeholm that looks particularly good.

    On the price topic, what's the current rate for your knives, in 240mm? I think I had one of the last before you hiked the price recently, 3840sek (without VAT) as I recall.
    actually named Mike

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Posts
    431
    Quote Originally Posted by DanHumphrey View Post
    Hmm. So of course I'm going to chime in, being the guy who started this. What's the damage, price-wise, for one of those steels like 1.2442 or (I assume this would be frightful) Aogami Super? I'll look around on the ZKnives charts and see if there's anything from Uddeholm that looks particularly good.

    On the price topic, what's the current rate for your knives, in 240mm? I think I had one of the last before you hiked the price recently, 3840sek (without VAT) as I recall.
    Ballpark 300 extra for Arne (O1, 1.2442) I'll pm you current pricing.
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Posts
    431
    Quote Originally Posted by RDalman View Post
    Ballpark 300 extra for Arne (O1, 1.2442) I'll pm you current pricing.
    Didn't realize 1.2442 was so different at first. Looking into it
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  7. #7
    Matus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    3,442
    Robin, if you can get A2 in proper sizes, you should definitely try it out. For some reason in DE it is basically impossible to find in sizes for stock removal.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Posts
    431
    Quote Originally Posted by Matus View Post
    Robin, if you can get A2 in proper sizes, you should definitely try it out. For some reason in DE it is basically impossible to find in sizes for stock removal.
    I can and have a bar ready to try out for when I do a heat treat run with cryo. But as usual I'm sceptical haha
    Email preferred to pm; Robin@dalmanknives.com
    I answer new inquirys once per week.

  9. #9
    Matus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    3,442
    Quote Originally Posted by RDalman View Post
    I can and have a bar ready to try out for when I do a heat treat run with cryo. But as usual I'm sceptical haha
    I guess it will take some work to get the HT nailed, but A2 really sharpens relatively easily, is tough and holds great edge. I am curios what will come out of our experiments. May I ask where you get A2 in sensible thickness? I have searched high and low in DE, even contacted some industrial sellers, but the thinnest stock was 6mm

  10. #10
    Matus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    3,442
    And you should definitely check out Niolox. I just got my frist knife back from HT - a thin 180 mm gyuto - and I am very curios how it will perform. It should have better edge holding and probably even finer grain than AEB-L (but it also cost more). Interestingly - according to Jürgen Schanz (who did the HT) the highest recommendable HRC is 61 - the edge holding does not improve past that point, the steel just gets more brittle.

    I also have two identical 210 gyutos in pipeline - one in D2 and one in Niolox - I am curios how these two steels will compare in use (but it will take me a while to get them done - hopefully this year).

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •