Sukenari vs. Kurosaki R2

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xsmx13

xsmx13

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So I have a pair of Tanaka R2 knives and would like to try a different R2 gyuto. I've been looking at a 240mm non-damascus Sukenari Kiritsuke and a 240mm Kurosaki hammered finish. There are some obvious differences in grind and profile, but I'm wondering if anyone has experience with either and any thoughts or recommendations. I should note that price point is almost identical, but if anyone has any different recommendations in a similar ballpark, please let me know.

Here they are for reference:

http://www.japanny.com/products/yu-kurosaki-r2-sg2-steel-hammered-japanese-chef-s-gyuto-knife-240mm

http://www.knivesandstones.com/sukenari-sg2-r2-kiritsuke-shaped-gyuto-240mm/
 
Really depends what you want. The sukenari probably has more distal taper rendering a thinner tip and probably abit thinner behind the edge. The kurosaki is more of a workhorse. I love my kurosaki r2 western right there with my kato from a pure usage perspective. Since you already have a r2 why not get a white or blue steel instead? From a visual perspective the kurosaki looks nicer imo.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Sorry, I meant the piece about having the R2 Tanaka's simply as reference to similar pm steel knives. I also have a few 240-270mm gyuto in Blue #2 along with a 270 in Blue #1 and 240 in Aogami Super. Although that just made me realize that my only white steel knives are a sujihiki and deba. Maybe I need to consider that for a gyuto.
 
I haven't used either, so can't share any experience on them, but I think the Kurosaki looks amazing. My favourite finish bar none. I need to get one at some point.

Both are pretty well regarded so you should be ok with either (although if I remember correctly there's been some talk of some Sukenaris being a little thick behind the edge?? If you pick the Sukenari just ask for a thinner one I guess? Or I couls be wrong? maybe someone will chime in?).

Just pick the one you like the most. Should be good either way.
 
I have a Kurosaki R2 hammer 240mm gyuto and used it as a everyday knife for a month. the back of the edge is pretty thin, and you can cut food like laser type gyuto. however, the paper thin back of the edge cause another problem. I found my Kurosaki is pretty brittle! my cut board is not very hard wood, but everytime I can get some new white spot or lines on the blade. it's a workhorse type but the spine is pretty thin, then that makes another problem. lack of the chopping power. the tip is very thick , and it makes dicing a very unhappy job.

I'd like to say , it's a not a well designed gyuto for me. other than slicing. My Masahiro and Misono is way better than this "famous" gyuto.
 
xsmx13 said:
Thanks for the feedback. Sorry, I meant the piece about having the R2 Tanaka's simply as reference to similar pm steel knives. I also have a few 240-270mm gyuto in Blue #2 along with a 270 in Blue #1 and 240 in Aogami Super. Although that just made me realize that my only white steel knives are a sujihiki and deba. Maybe I need to consider that for a gyuto.
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sukenari white 1 honyaki will fill in perfectly!
 
doudou said:
it's a workhorse type but My Masahiro and Misono is way better than this "famous" gyuto.
Click to expand...

Have you tried giving it a sharpening to address the edge brittleness problem? Knives like this often might have a so-so OOTB edge, and you need to them sharpen it to remove the weak initial edge steel, reveal the good steel and also put on the edge you want.

Also don't forget that R2 is more brittle than Masahiro's MBS26 steel or the steels Misono use.

And semantically-speaking with respect to your statement, in Japan Masahiro and Misono would be way more famous as large volume reputable brands that are readily available, whereas Kurosaki is a small volume and relatively young and new bladesmith that would be only known in smaller circles, I would think.
 
Haven't tried the Sukenari, but had a Takamura R2 (since sold) and now a Kurosaki R2 Hammered Western which I enjoy very much and seems to have better edge retention than my Takamura, though that's just from memory and I never owned them at the same time for side by side comparison. But at any rate, quite fond of the Kurosaki I have now and it's got lovely weight and geometry, and just flies through most product. However, what folks have said about lack of distal taper is true, and it's the one weak point of this knife. The tip on mine isn't bulky enough to warrant any real complaints (or thinning), and dicing onions is far from 'unhappy' as one previous poster put it, but it doesn't have quite the same agility at the tip as say a Konosuke Fujiyama. But all around, I really like the knife and think it performs very well for it's price point, though it will be a far heftier and stiffer blade than your Takamuras.
 
I would think the Kurosaki with more robust geometry and more steel behind the edge would cause it to have greater strength, all else being equal
 
Factotum said:
Haven't tried the Sukenari, but had a Takamura R2 (since sold) and now a Kurosaki R2 Hammered Western which I enjoy very much and seems to have better edge retention than my Takamura, though that's just from memory and I never owned them at the same time for side by side comparison. But at any rate, quite fond of the Kurosaki I have now and it's got lovely weight and geometry, and just flies through most product. However, what folks have said about lack of distal taper is true, and it's the one weak point of this knife. The tip on mine isn't bulky enough to warrant any real complaints (or thinning), and dicing onions is far from 'unhappy' as one previous poster put it, but it doesn't have quite the same agility at the tip as say a Konosuke Fujiyama. But all around, I really like the knife and think it performs very well for it's price point, though it will be a far heftier and stiffer blade than your Takamuras.
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this is pretty much bang on and i share much of the same view! I put a 30-40 degree micro bevel recently to the right side of the blade (kanji side) after i saw some very very very small chips (went on a herb mincing spree the other day), guess i took it down to too low of an angle previously (1 coin height)
 
richard said:
Have you tried giving it a sharpening to address the edge brittleness problem? Knives like this often might have a so-so OOTB edge, and you need to them sharpen it to remove the weak initial edge steel, reveal the good steel and also put on the edge you want.

Also don't forget that R2 is more brittle than Masahiro's MBS26 steel or the steels Misono use.

And semantically-speaking with respect to your statement, in Japan Masahiro and Misono would be way more famous as large volume reputable brands that are readily available, whereas Kurosaki is a small volume and relatively young and new bladesmith that would be only known in smaller circles, I would think.
Click to expand...


Actually, yes I put a new edge on the blade. the OOTB edge is some kind too thin for me. the new edge is much stronger and use this knife as a workhorse now.

I really like the cut feeling of the OOTB edge. however, for tuff reason, I put a much thicker edge now.
 
I do not have any of the knives, so I can't help.
I think that the Kurosaki R2 with western handle is one of the most beautiful knives, looks like it came straight out of Final Fantasy 7.
I have a question, concerning R2/SG2:
Does this steel have a standard way of proceeding with it, heat treatment and whatever else procedures might be involved, or is it like white steel, that everybody can treat it different?

If the first scenario is the case, then it doesn't matter who is the maker, go with the one that you find more beautiful.

Having read what knives you have, if I may suggest, go for a good Gin3, stainless, can become very sharp, and it is tough, what R2 isn't.
 
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