What ONE (and only one) Gyuto?

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jljohn

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I have a Paring (Kato 80mm), Petty (120mm Carter), and a Nakiri (170mm Carter), and I intend to get a 240mm Gyuto and a 300mm Sujihiki. With this lineup, what would you look for in a Gyuto. I had considered a Masamoto KS, and I'm still on the waiting list, but I wanted to think more generally about characteristics. I like longer knives with a sweeping profile like the KS as I never rock chop. But, given that I have a Nakiri and will have a long Suji, should I think about a workhorse gyuto instead of a laser? My chef's knives so far have been a Henckles Pro-S 8" Chef's and a Victorinox 10" Chefs. All-in-all, I like the 10" best for length, profile, and thickness.

I'd love your thoughts, and it's fine if your recommendations are general (style, thickness, etc) or specific knives. What I have considered seriously so far have been the Masamoto KS, the Toyama, and a Carter Muteki.

Thanks!
 
Honestly, if you were going to stick to just one gyuto, the Toyama would not be a bad choice at all. Great edge retention, medium thickness workhorse grind, nice and tall, and with good f&f.

Having handled both a KS and a Carter Muteki, I would go with the Toyama.
 
+1 Toyama

If you want a powerful workhorse, Toyama has a good "density", strong spine but still thin behind the edge.

The Masamoto and Carter are less powerful but still great knives. With the Sujihiki doing the slicing, then a heavier and taller workhorse would be my preference.
 
A Carter Gyuto is (inexplicably) on the BST forum now. I don't advocate "sets" but another Carter ....
 
A Carter Gyuto is (inexplicably) on the BST forum now. I don't advocate "sets" but another Carter ....

Hi Dave,

Are you talking about that 275 High Grade Funayuki that's for sale, or am I missing one that's out there?
 
I would get a thin behind the bevel Takeda or else a Watanabe. If reactivity is important to you, a Takeda; if you value a blade that is easier to sharpen, Watanabe.

Good choices too. Also, Watanabe and Toyama share the same blade profile generally, as their training is connected. Takeda is quite different and was better a few years ago. The newer models need thinning as suggested but be aware that thinning stainless is a task!
 
Shibata Kotetsu R-2, got a real nice sweeping profile without a flat spot.
 
You only want 1 gyuto? :bigeek:

More seriously, can we have some information about how you cut (push/slice/rock etc) and whether you like lasers or workhorses? I assume from your initial choices, you are looking for highish end carbon monosteel?
 
You only want 1 gyuto? :bigeek:

More seriously, can we have some information about how you cut (push/slice/rock etc) and whether you like lasers or workhorses? I assume from your initial choices, you are looking for highish end carbon monosteel?

He has answered all those questions in the op:

I have a Paring (Kato 80mm), Petty (120mm Carter), and a Nakiri (170mm Carter), and I intend to get a 240mm Gyuto and a 300mm Sujihiki.
I like longer knives with a sweeping profile like the KS as I never rock chop.
But, given that I have a Nakiri and will have a long Suji, should I think about a workhorse gyuto instead of a laser
 
Having similar taste as yours for the Carters and Masamoto makers and profiles, I would recommend without hesitations or caveats the KS for the Sujihiki (I had both KS Gyuto and Sujihiki and had to sell them to my daily regret ever since) and Carter for the Gyuto. I do not think it is a matter of laser vs workhorse, I found out that for me it is the knife/maker that I like is more important than conceptually being laser or workhorse because of the feel of the knife. An example is absolutely loving from the first minute of use my Carter Muteki ("laser") or Gesshin Kagero ("workhorse") and hating instantaneously and viscerally a Konosuke ("laser") and a Kikuichi ("workhorse"). With that in mind I seriously suggest to think as an alternative to look into order the Gyuto or the Sujihiki from either Tilman or Haburn.
 
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