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Thread: Edge Pro Apex?

  1. #11
    Senior Member nutmeg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpchef View Post



    I talk about systems like this.....

    And you can always let the system go, and thin your blades manually, but it would be possible with this system too, i can sharpen 0 degree angle with it, no problems..... Even Yanagibas get a new level of sharpness...... Because the Angle control is much better then with EP Systems and i got a pressure control as well....

    Btw. Sorry for so much offtopic.......

    Greets Sebastian.
    I feel free hand sharpening relaxing and it's good to see that one's skills are increasing over the months, years..
    The Sharchef's system seems to be very effective and offers a perfect consistency. I couldnt use it a long time but the results seems to be better than freehand.
    I would buy one for myself if had enough space at home. I'll do it one day 😋😋
    Anyway the "make up" on the blade can be done afterwards freehand.


  2. #12
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/sh...-The-REAL-DEAL


  3. #13
    Senior Member Castalia's Avatar
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    Former Edge Pro user here. I agree with the idea of the edge pro being like training wheels on a bicycle. If you have the budget, try the edge pro for a few months. In the end though, if you appreciate fine knives, I think you will come around to sharpening freehand on water stones. Watch the videos from Jon at JKI, get some stones and get started, without all the fussy set up the edge pro entails (along with not being able to thin). People seem to think that sharpening is some magical alchemy, but it is just a learned skill for taking care of knives. Not that big a deal.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Krassi's Avatar
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    Well lets call it frustrating for a perfectionist that i will never be able to exactly hold an angle by hand..no one can.. i want physical alchemy!
    but well ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .. everybody should use what he likes! (i ordered a bogdan system today)

  5. #15
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    I used Edgepro when I first started using Japanese knives. It will put a screaming sharp edge on a blade with very little experience. It makes it pretty easy to deburr too. It does however have some significant limitations. It is difficult to use it to maintain the blade geometry (behind the edge) of Japanese knives and it cannot sharpen Hamigaburi. This is why I learned freehanding. I suspect the Pro model, which allows a very low thinning angle, would be fine for Westren knives (which I think are mostly symmetrically ground).

    I learned a lot about edges from sharpening with Edgepro and I suspect that this is why I picked free handing up quite quickly. Being able to fall back on the Edgepro (which I've never had to do) gave me the confidence to try freehanding. Would I have been better off just starting with freehanding? Maybe. Certainly it would have been cheaper. But then again maybe I'd have thought that this whole J-Knife thing was all just a bit too hard and I'd still be using blunt Mundials, Furis and Wusties. I don't really regret having used it but I'm glad to be freehanding now.

    BTW, Ben who designed the Edgepro is very helpful and promptly answers emails. The after sales service is exceptional.

    When I used Edgepro, I initially went crazy with polishing. I had stones, tapes and homemade balsa strops that would polish down to 0.25 micron. And the knives were really sharp. But this isn't really required with kitchen knives and a bit of toothiness to the edge is quite useful in the kitchen. I quite like a 1k/8k edge that pkjames showed me for it's combination of toothiness and refinement but many here would recommend a 1k/3k or 1k/5k edge for general kitchen use. I guess that 1k JIS is roughly equivalent to 400 or 600 EP stone. 3K JIS is probably similar to EP 1000 or 1200. 8K is probably similar to EP2000 or 3000.

    If I were buying an EP now, for Japanese kitchen knives, I'd want 400, 600, 1000 stones and 2000 tape. The 120 stone is probably useful for thinning Western knives if you need to do that. The 220 stone is useful for setting a bevel on a very blunt knife if you need to do that. I'd probably opt for the professional model because it does allow much lower thinning angles.

    OTOH, it's not that difficult to learn freehanding and it's certainly more versatile, so consider that as well. Because you will probably end up there eventually anyway.
    You may find yourself in a beautiful house, with a beautiful knife
    You may ask yourself, well, how did I get here?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krassi View Post
    Well lets call it frustrating for a perfectionist that i will never be able to exactly hold an angle by hand..no one can.. i want physical alchemy!
    but well ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .. everybody should use what he likes! (i ordered a bogdan system today)
    Is there an English page that explains his system?

  7. #17
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    On the Shapton/ Chosera upgrades: Never used them. Have read some good reports, not sure how biased those reports were. AFAIK, they are only available from one vendor which I have never purchased from but many here seem to have had poor experiences with.

    The stock stones are fine. The 400 and 1000 stones have no problem cutting hard steels like srs15 and hap40.
    You may find yourself in a beautiful house, with a beautiful knife
    You may ask yourself, well, how did I get here?

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Krassi View Post
    Well lets call it frustrating for a perfectionist that i will never be able to exactly hold an angle by hand..no one can.. i want physical alchemy!
    but well ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .. everybody should use what he likes! (i ordered a bogdan system today)
    I fully agree. I earned my points hand sharpening plane irons. I was hoping to find a pic of my setup but I can't find it. I loved the shapton hippo stones though they don't make them anymore. I almost wore 1/2 of the 1000 grit out. they even made me the first and only shapton stone for the makita sharpener. Now I just want a consistent edge with my infrequent sharpening. my hands are not precise enough now to sharpen by hand accurately.

  9. #19
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    Great edges, poor cutters. The knives I've seen had invariably fantastic edges but a poor geometry.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benuser View Post
    Great edges, poor cutters. The knives I've seen had invariably fantastic edges but a poor geometry.
    huh? the geometry is whatever you choose it to be. just like hand sharpening. unless you change the geometry over the knifes curve.


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