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Thread: VG-10

  1. #1
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    VG-10

    I'm new to this game, but I'm starting to learn to sharpen some carbon steel knives on whetstones. However, I just saw Benuser write this in another thread (that I don't want to derail):

    But VG-10 is a bit a special case. A burr won't fall off as with a carbon steel, and if it were to, it would leave a severely damaged edge behind.
    The VG-10 burr needs to get carefully abraded with at any next step a finer stone. Probably no need for a full sharpening at every stage of the progression, but at least some very light stropping, followed by deburring along the edge. I don't think naturals can be very helpful in this respect.
    Since I actually have a VG-10 knife that have not yet shown to the stones, perhaps someone here can expand a bit on the peculiarties of sharpening a VG-10 knife, and keeping it sharp thereafter?
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  2. #2
    Senior Member spoiledbroth's Avatar
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    Most mass produced knives made with this steel have a reputation for forming stubborn burs.

    Basically it's good enough stainless to warrant polishing. If you try a polishing regiment on aus8 you'll find that steel doesn't warrant polishing.
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  3. #3
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    In my experience, sharpening VG-10 is no different than sharpening any other steel. Raise the smallest burr possible on a coarse or medium stone, then reduce (abrade) the burr on a higher grit stone. Don't raise a big burr when you begin, and you won't have to worry about it later.

    Rick
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    Don't ask me... just changed a visible 30° (single bevel) secondary bevel to a ~18°+micro on VG10... serious labor even with a pro 400 ... what worked was going brutal on the burr from the angle change (nothing but cutting hardwood managed to deal with it. Yes, that is ripping it off, and yes that left a coarse edge) and then just doing a more controlled resharpening without an angle change and without building much burr...

    Microbevelling is your friend anyway with VG10, and you will abrade the last bit of burr (don't leave too much lest you microbevel the burr instead ).

    Paper stropping doesn't work that well with VG10 (if compared to, say, Shirogami)... it does respond to Crox somewhat.... has someone tried steeling with softer VG10?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pensacola Tiger View Post
    In my experience, sharpening VG-10 is no different than sharpening any other steel. Raise the smallest burr possible on a coarse or medium stone, then reduce (abrade) the burr on a higher grit stone. Don't raise a big burr when you begin, and you won't have to worry about it later.

    Rick
    Very well summarized. +1

    Don't over-think it. It's all about muscle memory to keep steady angle.

  6. #6
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    I raise a barely perceptible burr on a Bester 1200, then finish on a King or Arashiyama 6k, or a Rika 5000. Strop on wood charged with chromium oxide. Gives me great, long lasting edges.

    Don't raise a huge burr to start with and you will be fine.

    Peter

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    I have found VG-10 (well, VG-MAX, whatever that is) to sharpen up just like anything else. I use Shapton Pro stones and strop on balsa loaded with 1u diamond.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    Just to tell the traditional chasing the burr won't work with VG-10.

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    @Benuser You mean, the burr enjoys the chase instead of fatigueing?

  10. #10
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    In traditional sharpening, the burr is weakened by making it flipping and will finally fall off. That's how it may work with carbons, but certainly not with VG-10. So, forget the flipping but abrade it instead.

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