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Thread: Best / easiest way to restore kitaeji

  1. #1
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    Best / easiest way to restore kitaeji

    Like a lot of you are saying Shigesufas are beautiful knives but on the performance side they need a bit of a help. I have one gyuto that is really nice but is significantly falls behind in cutting performance to my Watanabe and Kato.

    It is finally time to thin in.

    This is not an issue in itself but obviously after thinning it I will have to deal with restoring the kitaeji. Since I do not have all different fingerstones required for this I would like to take some alternative route.

    I think I remember one post where somebody was explaining that the best/easiest way is to use sanding paper and after last progression use fingerstones that give pretty good result. But I am not quite sure if I remember this correctly.

    Based on the fact that I have some Uchigomori fingestones I am hoping that this would work.

    What do you say? Or perhaps you have some other suggestions?

  2. #2
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    Nobody able to help?

  3. #3
    Senior Member Badgertooth's Avatar
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    A bit unconventional, but get some silicone carbide powder in grits from 90 through to 600. Cut some balsa strip the size of the top two joints of your middle finger. Spritz the blade with a little water, sprinkle with silicone carbide and work in one direction with one balsa pad per grit. That'll do the heavy lifting with a much shallower scarce pattern than sandpaper and it's so much easier to control the motion with a grippable piece of balsa than a piece of sandpaper. Then when it's all smoothed out go over it with fingerstones. I'm experimenting but I found soft Aiiwatani followed by uchi works nicely.

    That said.. scrubbies and sandpaper would also work. Here is a Red Orca that had the **** thinned out of it restored with scrubbies and SP




  4. #4
    Senior Member KimBronnum's Avatar
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    I second what Badger said.
    I really suck at using fingerstones - for some reason - but I know the MO works
    - Kim

  5. #5
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    Ferric Chloride is not as scary as it sounds. With a little hand sanding, a FC bath then a buff it will look as good as new. Where do you live?

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the tips. I will just try the sanding paper method and see. If all other things fail I will try etching, but I do not think I will need to.

    When I was etching my Miyabi I was using sulfuric acid instead of Ferric Chloride as I do not know where to source Ferric Chloride in Belgium. Sulphuric acid also worked but I next time I will try FC just to see the difference. If I can get it of course...
    Any tips where to get this in EU?

    BTW Badger: this is very nice result on your knife

  7. #7
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    Do they have amazon there?

  8. #8
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    Would hydrochloric acid work?
    "I'd better change my signature before I get myself into trouble..."

  9. #9
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    Any acid will work... you are just etching the materials. Which react differently... the only question is the strength and speed with which they etc.

  10. #10
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    Ive used a progression of grits from 1000, 3000, 5000 naniwa pros, 8000 snow white, then hit it with fingerstones. I dont think kitaeji is etched.

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