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Thread: 190 mm yo gyuto

  1. #11
    Senior Member jessf's Avatar
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    Jan 2016
    Getting all the scratches out might be a hassle at this point but you can always focus on removing them on the bottom half of the blade and bring up to a high polish near the edge. Makes the existence of the scratches higher up look like a deliberate design decision.

  2. #12
    Senior Member milkbaby's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Thanks all for the kind words!

    Quote Originally Posted by merlijny2k View Post
    Likelikelikelikelike...... But.......if I am really honest, I have to say the finish on the blade just doesn't do the handle justice. Rustic forged look, yes, deep residual scratches, not so much. That handle appears to me as full custom level, and then the blade finish just doesn't keep pace. Been buying some polishing stuff lately and been taking my 400 finished rehandled knives up to 1200 grit. The ones i haven't given away that is. Food release actually noticeably improved with it.
    Yeah, this is the kind of thing that happens when I get impatient or in a hurry, both of which are very detrimental when making a knife!

    I usually grind to about 80-90% completion up to 220 grit before heat treat and then drop back down to 50 grit and go through a progression to 400 grit for the descaled area. This 1084 has been really good out of the quench, not warping and barely any curve to correct. I find that up to 400 grit gives a decent belt finish that is relatively smooth yet still somewhat rustic, but nicer than say the rough CCK style KU finish. However, this time I was doing even more post-HT refinement on the grind at 50 grit and rushed the other grits up to 400 a bit. I think part of it was trying to avoid a mistake like grinding up too high by the heel that you can see on one side of the blade, which I ended up doing anyhow, LOL. Part of it is my set up which is basically kneeling or sitting on the ground since I'm an apartment dweller and plop equipment on the outside balcony floor to do work.

    I've read that food release is not as good at lower grit finishes, but I also am trying to address food release by the geometry. I think wide bevels help knock stuff off at the "shoulder" of the shinogi line, also a full convex grind depending on how it slopes up from edge to spine can also do the same in my opinion. I'm still working on getting a good consistent grind, as you can see after sharpening the cutting bevel is a bit large and not totally consistent height. It's just something I think I'll have to do over and over again to get better at, but in the meantime, I'm still very happy with the knives in the kitchen and in fact I always reach for my own knives first. Not because they are the best performers I have (though I've spent the most care sharpening them, so probably the best edges right now), but because it's the most satisfying to me to use what I made, LOL.

    At this time I don't plan to go back over and do any more finishing/grinding, just using it until the patina gets funky enough that I don't care about pretty looks anymore!

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Quote Originally Posted by milkbaby View Post
    Thanks all for the kind words!

    At this time I don't plan to go back over and do any more finishing/grinding, just using it until the patina gets funky enough that I don't care about pretty looks anymore!
    Exactly what I said after many hours of thinning and trying to remove the scratches. And then several weeks later there's the mirror shine anyway. The knives are strong and the mind is weak.

    As for the food release: mine was exceptionally terrible after I thinned the whole bevel flat on the stone. Polished it is still not good, but I no longer get the inclination to fetch a crowbar to pry the food loose

  4. #14
    Senior Member preizzo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Bellissimo!! 😍

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