Handle for Tanaka r2

Been meaning to post this for a bit. My first hidden tang western handle I've made my second handle really overall. I forgot the wood but it is buffalo horn and dyed blue something for end cap on a 240 Tanaka r2 gyuto

Cool

Nicely done!

Hi. Is that a regular r2 wa gyuto rehandled?

Pure sexiness, the blue reminds me of a catchside's green albeit the shape reminds me of those hidden tang konosuke honyakis that sold a while back, really really good work, cant wait to see what you make next

Very nice work. How is the balance of the knife with the new handle? I used to have a 210 R2 Tanaka with WA handle and it was a very lightweight knife.

I just love, Love, LOVE it when a custom handle really looks like it was made for the knife. The waves and swirls in the handle are very harmonious with the Damascus pattern in the blade.

Well done sir!

Looks like Burled or Spalted Maple but, whatever it is, it's gorgeous. Well done!

Godslayer said:

Pure sexiness, the blue reminds me of a catchside's green albeit the shape reminds me of those hidden tang konosuke honyakis that sold a while back, really really good work, cant wait to see what you make next

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It might be a bit I already threw out the next two. One I actually smashed on the garage floor in frustration

Holy smokes that's nice! Pretty dang awesome for only your second handle?! :doublethumbsup:

Great shape, and appropriately proportioned. Looks awesome! What did you go with for the finish?

That blue looks awesome surreal

Nice handle Nick! :thumbsup:

NO ChoP! said:

Great shape, and appropriately proportioned. Looks awesome! What did you go with for the finish?

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I haven't finished it yet. I have pure tung oil but am hesitant to use it. You have any recommendations

I use Danish oil followed by wax, more because it's quicker and more forgiving. I think you're supposed to cut the first few applications of tung with a thinner for better adsorption. Also, it takes forever to fully harden, but gives you that nice, wet look. Once cured, you may have to clean up the finish a bit with 0000. It's probably a superior finish, just takes patience.

Patience is exactly what I don't have.

I've been using a tung oil finish which is an oil/varnish mixture that works/dries quicker than real 100% tung oil. It can also build up a very small surface layer depending on how you use it, i.e. like a varnish would. If you ignore the instructions then you can build a really glossy surface coat that seems to never dry, don't ask me how I know... :IMOK: A couple of common brands are Watco tung oil finish and Minwax tung oil finish.

After the tung oil finish then I use wax, so similar to No ChoP! except he uses Danish oil. Tung oil finish, teak oil finish, and Danish oil finish are all similar, oil/varnish mixtures (penetrating oils and polymerizingdrying oils and resins) with chemicals like odorless mineral spirits and whatever to speed drying. With the oil finish and wax, I've gotten decent luster on both non-stabilized and stabilized woods, though some woods are supposed to be okay without the oil finish (pro stabilized woods and some closed grain oily woods).

Cool handle!!!

COOL!!!

Mhenry!!!!! ***!!checking in

mhenry said:

COOL!!!

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Yooooooooo......my man!!!! Hope all is well!