D. Martell Let's talk about my butcher knife....

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Dave Martell

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Hi folks,
I'd like to show you a slightly tweaked version of my butcher knife that I just started making a few weeks ago. I received some pro feedback which got me thinking about some things that I wanted to modify so I jumped in again with both feet and came up with this. :spiteful:



Some things to note with the new design...


1. Belly has been added to the profile. I pushed the belly out just a bit to add more curve.


2. The blade length has been stretched to 7.5" (from 7"). This is a measurement taken in a straight line of the cutting edge.

If the cutting edge is measured on a curve there is actually 8+" of edge found and this is due to the profile belly.



3. The widest part of the blade measures 43mm. This is an increase in width (at the curve) over the first knife by 5mm



4. The heel width is now 35mm which now allows for a pinch grip (should you want to do this?) without getting sliced on the edge.



5. A more pronounced finger notch was created in front the of the handle to allow for a secure purchase when thrusting forward.



6. I made damn sure to keep the tip aligned as dead center as humanly possible (by eye). The first two knives are pretty close but this new design is near perfect in this regard, you can see this evidenced by the drawn in line on the blank.



Please keep in mind that the pictures are of an un-ground blade, meaning it's thick still, they're just for proof of profile. I added in a Forgecraft scale to some of the pictures to give you a more accurate idea of what it will look like with a handle attached but again this is just for mock up purposes, the actual handle will be slightly different.

Also worth noting is that (unless otherwise requested) the heel will be squared off for safety. The pictures show a sharp pointy heel but again this is a prototype.


If you've got some thoughts that you'd like to share I'd LOVE to hear them, please post away. :)

And if this is a knife that you'd maybe be interested in purchasing I'd REALLY LOVE to hear this too. :D

Dave

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I know very little about butchery but I think I can intuitively follow along with the design concept. Biggest problem I have with a petty or hankotsu for the limited amount of times I do work remotely resembling butchery I find the flat profile and pointy tip to be problematic. This may all be irrelevant to someone who actually knows what they're doing so keep that in mind.
 
I like the design of the knife, reminds me of a katsuo Bocho almost. Take this for what it is though, I have done a good amount of butchery and I've watched a bunch as well including a french master butcher recently within the last 2 months. He Broke down a full half cow, full pig, chickens, ducks, half goat, and he never used anything but a stiff semi curved 6" breaking knife and a chef knife to portion. I'm not really sure what I would use this for, but maybe thats just my inexperience.
 
IMO, this is a whacking/swinging design as shown.

You are close - with blade forward.

Time to really open up that choil for better balance and purchase.
 
If I did more butchery than trimming and portioning the occasional boneless protein. I would be all over onw of these.

Looks great Dave.
 
I like the design of the knife, reminds me of a katsuo Bocho almost.

Me too.



Take this for what it is though, I have done a good amount of butchery and I've watched a bunch as well including a french master butcher recently within the last 2 months. He Broke down a full half cow, full pig, chickens, ducks, half goat, and he never used anything but a stiff semi curved 6" breaking knife and a chef knife to portion. I'm not really sure what I would use this for, but maybe thats just my inexperience.

That's the thing isn't it? If I make them will they sell?
 
IMO, this is a whacking/swinging design as shown.

You are close - with blade forward.

Time to really open up that choil for better balance and purchase.


Do you mean that the choil notch should be deeper and/or forward more? Interesting!
 
What about thickness? What are your thoughts on how a blade with this profile and purpose should be in regards to how thick or thin it's ground?
 
I think the thickness of your gyutos would be good. Because it would be going through thick fat caps and fatty meat edge stability would be important and zero flex would be more desireable than laserish geo for me. Convex is king.
 
I think the thickness of your gyutos would be good. Because it would be going through thick fat caps and fatty meat edge stability would be important and zero flex would be more desireable than laserish geo for me. Convex is king.


Thanks Charlie
 
Do you mean that the choil notch should be deeper and/or forward more? Interesting!

Yes.

Granted, this is just observational w/o handling the concept design and based on the linear images offered.
 
So as I suspected there really isn't much of an interest in these knives, at least not enough to warrant me having a sheet of steel cut up into blanks. I had hoped otherwise as I toyed with the idea of doing a group buy for everyone to save $$.....bummer. :(
 
So as I suspected there really isn't much of an interest in these knives, at least not enough to warrant me having a sheet of steel cut up into blanks. I had hoped otherwise as I toyed with the idea of doing a group buy for everyone to save $$.....bummer. :(

Breaking knives are the way to go Dave For sure. They can be crossed utilized for multiple tasks.
 
Not that I'd have the money anyway, but I guess the question in my mind was 'how is this knife-shape used'? I'm more used to the thinner low-profiled blades with small tips, about 6 inch length - the classical boning knife I guess.
 
Not that I'd have the money anyway, but I guess the question in my mind was 'how is this knife-shape used'? I'm more used to the thinner low-profiled blades with small tips, about 6 inch length - the classical boning knife I guess.


I've got an order for a 6" boning knife so that'll be coming along soon too.
 
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