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Thread: Scratch removal after HT on monosteel blades

  1. #11

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    Yes it's a blessing and can be a curse haha. For me it's great, just keep track of how/where you're working and it does well.


  2. #12
    Dave Martell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefcomesback View Post
    ....and may even want to try grinding on an angle with a fine belt to just to see the scratch pattern and see if there are still deep scratches

    There's many ways to skin this cat but using the above quoted recommendation is the best way to make sure that you're deep scratch free before moving on up the line.

    I go through to 120x ceramic and then use an A300 Gator diagonally, this will show what I need to grind out. Sometimes I can use the A300 gator to remove the scratches and other times I put the 120x ceramic back on and go diagonally with this and then switch back to A300 Gator straight grinding to remove the 120x diagonal scratches. This makes for a worry free end result.


  3. #13
    Matus's Avatar
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    Thank you. A300 Gator would be like 60 - 80 grit. If that is needed to get out scratches from 120 ceramic belt, than it is no wonder that I did not get too far from A100 I guess.

  4. #14
    Matus's Avatar
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    Since I have started this thread I would like to mention where do I stand after few more blades. My current (and still very much changing and developing) process is the following:
    - grind the blade on #36/40 grit belt down to about 95% (ca 0.3 mm on edge)
    - use #60/80 grit belt under angle to make sure all the 36/40 scratches are gone
    - use the #120 belt under 'normal' grinding direction to clean up the previous stage
    - use Bester 220 to remove all the scratches from #120 belt
    - Set the final bevels with Watanabe AI#1000 (if necessary start with Bester if there is too much steel to be removed)
    - Clean up the blade with AI#1000 and then follow up with Gesshin 4000
    - go to #600 or #800 sandpaper and only clean up the blade (I do not change directions anymore, just make sure I like the result)
    - If necessary go to higher grits with sandpaper

    This seems to work reasonably fine. It still is a lot of work - in particular with Niolox steel (Damasteel was SO much easier to work with), but I seem to get pretty consistent results. I find that the advantage of using stones is that I have much larger steps in grit what makes it easier to see unremoved scratches. Another big advantage is that I will not overlook any low spots - If I want to get homogeneous finish with a stone - there can be basically no low spots left. And since the quality of my grinding still leaves quite a bit to be desired, I can fix some smaller flaws in the grind with the stones.

    I am all ears for possible improvements


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