Belt sanding analysis paralysis

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Bensbites

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Hi All, I am back. After several people seem to like my handles, I want to make some blades by stock removal/back yard heat treating at first.

1) Read this forum
2) Get some 1084
3) backyard forge with propane / firebrick


I am thinking of using my current 4x36 belt sander before I invest much money in this. I have seen not to buy cheap belts. Please help with my analysis paralysis over belts. I see alot of advice for belts with 1x30 or 2 x 72.
 
Just so that we understand - you are asking for an advice on what 4x36 belts you should buy, is that correcrt?
 
Just so that we understand - you are asking for an advice on what 4x36 belts you should buy, is that correcrt?

Basicly. If not specifically what to buy, what should I avoid. Thank you.
 
I buy the cheapest my supplier stocks, aluminium oxide, I think.
My observation is that the belts last in almost exact relation to their cost.
The advantage of cheap belts is that it's easier to view them as what they are- consumables, rather than trying to stretch them out beyond their capacity, which just causes fatigue and mistakes.
The disadvantage is that you have to change belts more often.

Concerning 4" x 36", don't forget that you can (or should be able to) split your belts down the middle, making them 2" wide, which you may find gives you more control, and they will work fine on your sander.
 
Whatever you end up choosing, for a fixed speed belt sander, you'll probably want to use either a new belt or very fresh one for post-heat treat grinding. It can be easy to overheat your blade especially thin sections on a kitchen knife (especially the tip) and then ruin the temper.

I tried some low grit (40 grit? IIRC) 1x30 zirconia belts from Harbor Freight and they seem much lower quality than similar priced or just slightly more expensive belts I bought on Amazon. Like the abrasive just broke down much quicker.

I've been using low grit zirconia belts for initial profiling and bevel grinding just to hog metal off quicker (still very slow on my 1x30). I switch to aluminum oxide belts at the higher grits because I was being cheap.

I would say just but a few and try them. Different people work differently, have different equipment, and have different preferences, so that can play into belt preferences. Belts are also expendable, so it's not like you're stuck with whatever you first buy.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I suspect I was overthinking this.
 
what you can find cheap and ideally locally will help a lot. I've taken to buying ceramics for 40 to 60 grit then alum oxide for everything else. use 'em like they're free.
 
Ok. Problem solved.. sorta. I ordered steel, although I suspect that got messed up because PayPal didn't transfer shipping. I already sent an email. Belts next, then I just go for it.

I have watched videos, but next up... over research the quench...
 
For what it is worth I have made so far good experience with the orange Norton Blaze belts in 60 and 120 grits and have some in 40 grit that I will be using shortly.
 
shop, 4x36 is used by lapidary folks and metallurgical labs, so there are belts from 24 grit to 2000 grit available, in AO, SiC, Zirconia, and Ceramic. here is the best current deal https://www.sandpaperamerica.com/sh...pz628-closed-coat-zirconium-for-metal-2-pack/, hard to beat $2 a belt in zirconia. I bought some in 2x72 and 3x21, work well wet or dry.

Scott, I gotta ask...what kind of belt life are you getting? Decent? Those are some hard-to-beat prices!

-Mark
 
Scott, I gotta ask...what kind of belt life are you getting? Decent? Those are some hard-to-beat prices!

-Mark

decent. a belt per 4" blade pre heat treat and a belt post heat treat. that is on a variable speed 2x72 wet. No issues with the belts stretching or the joints coming apart.
 
I too like those orange Norton Blaze belts. They cut fast and have a good useable lifespan.
 
if you are going to have the 4x36 for a while, get a 4x4 ceramic tile that has one side rounded or bull nosed. epoxy it to the platen with bottom of tile even with top of work rest. not quite as good as thermal treated super glass, but a quick $2 fix.
 
if you are going to have the 4x36 for a while, get a 4x4 ceramic tile that has one side rounded or bull nosed. epoxy it to the platen with bottom of tile even with top of work rest. not quite as good as thermal treated super glass, but a quick $2 fix.


Thanks. I have a to see. If I enjoy this I might jump to a grizzly 2x72... I have to make a few blades first and get some feedback. I also have to sell enough handles to pay for all this. Ha!
 
If you're going to consider a two wheel grinder, Ben, take a long, close look at the Coote grinder before going Grizzly. You'll have to provide your own motor, but motors can be had cheaply and they are plentiful. Plus, you get to go variable speed with the addition of step pulleys or a VFD if you choose. Beats the hell out of a 1000 mph single speed.
-Mark
 
If you're going to consider a two wheel grinder, Ben, take a long, close look at the Coote grinder before going Grizzly. You'll have to provide your own motor, but motors can be had cheaply and they are plentiful. Plus, you get to go variable speed with the addition of step pulleys or a VFD if you choose. Beats the hell out of a 1000 mph single speed.
-Mark

I've had my Coote for maybe 9 years now. After all the abuse I've hurled at it it is still going strong.
Definitely go VFD. The step pulley option is a pain.
 
If you're going to consider a two wheel grinder, Ben, take a long, close look at the Coote grinder before going Grizzly. You'll have to provide your own motor, but motors can be had cheaply and they are plentiful. Plus, you get to go variable speed with the addition of step pulleys or a VFD if you choose. Beats the hell out of a 1000 mph single speed.
-Mark


Thanks.
 
+1 on the Coote, I went with the 2x48

VFD:http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/9543-KBDA-27D/

Motor:http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/LEESON-113026/

Mounted on homemade box/wheels so I can scoot it around the garage.
YGew8RY6rzlonDNeCt0NqT2uvHj6daIzITCwkRRUSdkvdHbEPRJKccnUgKAjcLiQgzg1PMPd3J7jfg=w184-h275
 
+1 on the Coote, I went with the 2x48

VFD:http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/9543-KBDA-27D/

Motor:http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/LEESON-113026/

Mounted on homemade box/wheels so I can scoot it around the garage.
YGew8RY6rzlonDNeCt0NqT2uvHj6daIzITCwkRRUSdkvdHbEPRJKccnUgKAjcLiQgzg1PMPd3J7jfg=w184-h275

cute, just what i would expect from a black shoe. LOL(i am retired AT) good looking setup.

Blaze are good belts but 4x36 is not a stock size. Best bet is Zirconia Alumina in grits up to 180, then Silicon Carbide for grits up to 800.
My 2x72 is a Wilmont LB1000 that cost $800 and I found a 1 1/2 Hp motor and VFD for less than $300. Whatever you decide, allow an extra $100 or so for stuff like wire, wire nuts, switches, junction boxes, mounting bolts and nuts. another $200 for belts.
scott
 
cute, just what i would expect from a black shoe. LOL(i am retired AT) good looking setup.

Blaze are good belts but 4x36 is not a stock size. Best bet is Zirconia Alumina in grits up to 180, then Silicon Carbide for grits up to 800.
My 2x72 is a Wilmont LB1000 that cost $800 and I found a 1 1/2 Hp motor and VFD for less than $300. Whatever you decide, allow an extra $100 or so for stuff like wire, wire nuts, switches, junction boxes, mounting bolts and nuts. another $200 for belts.
scott

Great advice. Thanks. I have a custom magnetic knife bar in the works for a client. Several handle installs, and finally some "thank you" gift handles I have to make for a few folk who have helped me out. Then I will get to this blade thingy...
 
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