Thinning an Itinomonn gyuto - how do I find the right angle?

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Viggetorr

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I'm considering buying a kasumi stainless Itinomonn gytuo, but I fear it will be hard to find the kiriba when thinning. Some gyutos, like a Kurosaki ( https://cuttingedgeknives.co.uk/imagegen.ashx?image=/media/148679/gallery-shizuku-gyuto-240mm-1.jpg ), have a very obvious kiriba/shinogi lince where you need only lay the knife flat on the stone and press down on the kiriba to find the perfect angle for thinning:

As far as I can tell from the pictures the Itinomonn gyuto does not have an equally pronounced kiriba/shinogi line.

Does any of you have experience with thinning an Iti gyuto? Will I find the correct angle in the same way as for a Kurosaki simply by pressing down on it without having to adjust the angle myself, or will it take more skill and consistency in finding and keeping the right angle?

Itinomonn gyuto:
https://cheftalk.com/index.php?media/dsc_1680-jpg.116343/full
http://i.imgur.com/wVClxgW.jpg
 
When thinning the knife you can try the 'sharpie trick' that can also be used when sharpening:

[video=youtube;8kzGvtX-h8g]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kzGvtX-h8g&list=PLEBF55079F53216AB&index=4[/video]
 
What Matus said. Just like thinning any other double bevel knife. There is no shinogi on this knife. Think of it as a very thin western blade instead.

Plus the Itinomonn is very thin behind the edge so thinning won't be needed for a long time.
 
Sharpie has helped me a bunch. Also I use duct tape to limit where the thinning/sharpening is taking place.
If you do go overboard with your angle, at least you'll have a few strokes before you scratch your knife up.
 
When thinning the knife you can try the 'sharpie trick' that can also be used when sharpening

Sure, but how do I know how far up I should be thinning without altering the geometry of the knife?
 
If I'm not mistaken, this knife has been thinned.. there's a matte part... This should be about right?

http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/s...AINLESS-KASUMI-210MM-WA-GYUTO-w-CUSTOM-HANDLE

jIXkqv6h.jpg
 
From the one I handled I would say there's indeed a shinogi. So should be very easy to ride it when you decide to flatten and thin the bevel, rest of the blade is just finished properly the same. Which makes it a very easy knife to refinish whichever way you choose stone/sandpaper/loose grit.
 
Sure, but how do I know how far up I should be thinning without altering the geometry of the knife?
Thinning is altering the geometry of a knife, that's the point.

On the first few thinnings you may only need to remove steel close to the edge, so lay the knife flat on the stone and use finger pressure close to the edge.
After doing this a few times, it will become necessary to thin closer to the spine to avoid wedging, same principle but use finger pressure closer to the spine.
 
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