Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums by donating using the link above or becoming a Supporting Member.
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Removing attached base from Rika 5000

  1. #11
    Senior Member miggus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    111
    Well, the drying is not an issue with the Rika. I read elsewhere that permasoaking isn't recommended for Suehiro stones, anyways. Obviously people do it, but it is by no means required. Only thing is: The stone is very thirsty, so you should try and see that it isn't dried all too quickly, this might cause cracking. So don't put the wet stone on a radiator or something of that sort, where it would dry out all too fast. But, as Drosophil said, it is slightly messy to get the water out of the hollow spot between the base and the bottom of the stone, this requires some shaking and turning, and will take about 1 Minute.


  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    849
    Quote Originally Posted by Drosophil View Post
    This is where a dedicated "sharpening stuff" drawer comes in handy.
    A drawer turns into two and later a whole cabinet. I think soon it is going to have its own dedicated hobby room...


  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Transylvania, Romania
    Posts
    138
    Quote Originally Posted by miggus View Post
    Well, the drying is not an issue with the Rika. I read elsewhere that permasoaking isn't recommended for Suehiro stones, anyways. Obviously people do it, but it is by no means required.
    I remember Jon saying that vitrified stones, like the Rika, can be safely permasoaked. Can't say if a 20 minute soak is enough since mine has been playing submarine since day one and it's fast enough that I've yet to see it asking for more water, but I'm sure permasoaking is not a must.
    "It's not that we have high standards, but they're gonna put the food in their mouth."

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Transylvania, Romania
    Posts
    138
    "It's not that we have high standards, but they're gonna put the food in their mouth."

  5. #15
    Senior Member miggus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    111
    Wow, great document! Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Drosophil View Post
    Can't say if a 20 minute soak is enough since mine has been playing submarine since day one and it's fast enough that I've yet to see it asking for more water, but I'm sure permasoaking is not a must.
    Yeah, actually, 10 minutes works well also. Dieter Schmidt, from whom I bought this stone, recommends 5-10 minutes. But since the stone does leak some water, it is required to splash a bit on top every few minutes. But this is very easily done, no fuzz required

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Joure, Province of Friesland, The Netherlands.
    Posts
    255
    Quote Originally Posted by Drosophil View Post
    Atoma plates are splash and go? I find mine works better if I permasoak it.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    503
    Quote Originally Posted by PalmRoyale View Post
    Atoma plates are splash and go? I find mine works better if I permasoak it.
    1+

  8. #18
    Senior Member WiscoNole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Milwaukee
    Posts
    249
    Quote Originally Posted by PalmRoyale View Post
    Atoma plates are splash and go? I find mine works better if I permasoak it.
    Stainless steel is not porous, what would soaking it do?
    -Matt

  9. #19
    Senior Member Marek07's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    827
    Quote Originally Posted by WiscoNole View Post
    Stainless steel is not porous, what would soaking it do?

    Got me puzzled too!

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Involves Germans. Lots of Germans.
    Posts
    2,458
    I would say the question is valid - some stones are not available with and without holder in all markets, and stones with built in bases that can't clamp into eg a fixed stone holder on a sink or pond bridge feel downright dangerous is just set on top...


    Been tempted to try the same on some SS ... I guess either nibbling the material away with sturdy dikes or sawing the holder apart would be the easiest option

    Plastic and glue eating chemicals (acetone, nitrocel thinner, MEK, THF....) probably would harm the stone and you


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •