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Thread: Custom Order Progress Update

  1. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lefty View Post
    I hate to slightly derail the thread, but I just thinned out my 240 gyuto, and put a nice easy sandpaper refinish on it, and it is the best cutting gyuto I've used. I think it's back to its original thinness BTE, and I'm amazed. Just wanted to add that, to get people pumped
    It worked

  2. #232
    Thank you.

    I have a bunch of knives that need to have a name etched that I am going to do in one bunch. The thing about stencils I got from
    http://www.erniesknives.com/knifemaker_logo.html

    these will give you a dark mark only on the first use, regardless how many knives you etch. Every mark after that, is white. A little disappointing as you to get a dark mark, you use them once. I am going to order stencils from a different source once I use these up.

    So, knives that are completed (including two damascus) are not listed on the list, but they are done but mark and etching. There are 4 in total.

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

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  3. #233
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    I'm guessing it's a stupid question but have you seen Butch Harner's old video on marking?

    http://youtu.be/ZSyuYYflu98

  4. #234
    I don't think the problem is in technique. Somehow the stencil feels dry the next day, and all subsequent use produce a white mark.

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

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  5. #235
    WillC's Avatar
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    I know you have been through all this and worked it out when you started, but Im using Ernie stencils too so for what its worth....
    I get repeated black marks. They continue to work until I get degradation around the edges of the lettering or damage and pin holes in the resist material meaning I start to get extra marks which need to be removed after the etch. I have found my small logo's degrade very rapidly after one or two uses unless I turn the power of my machine down. I just have a 9v/18v switch on mine. I use 9v for small logo's 18v for big logos. After use and a clean I keep my logos out of the light.
    I don't get a reliable black mark into 304L stainless on clad knives ever, so I leave my mark bright on these blades.

  6. #236
    I have an etching machine that allows to regulate the current. I find that high current removes metal fast, but also can give a blurry mark on some steel, so on the scale 1-5, I etch at 4. I will try to do it on a lower setting, and see if it makes much of a difference. Also, will keep the stencils in a tight container with some moisture in , to prevent over drying after the first use

    See what happens.


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

  7. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by AFKitchenknivesguy View Post
    I'm loving the latest post.
    Screw you Jason!! My names not up there and I'm blaming you LOL...it's ok the longer I wait the more Marko's skills grow.

  8. #238
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    As far as the etching goes if I have this right and not backwards then it's DC current that etches and AC current that darkens? So you are starting with DC then switching to AC right, if not try it should help.

    If you're already doing that then it might be the stencils as you're suggesting. I'm assuming you're using the silkscreening photo sensitive adhesive type stencils, usually blue? If so it's heat and abrasion that wears them out. The hotter the quicker they burn and fine lines and small detail burn the fastest.
    Some things that might help?
    1. If you can secure the stencil so that it can be lifted and replaced without screwing up the mark (registered or keyed in design terms) then you can flush with cold water that should help.
    2. The heat is a byproduct of the electricity it's not necessary for the etching effect I.E. Your not burning the mark in with heat. So a cold blade will etch just as well as a room temperature one, chill the blade.
    3. I get made fun of for saying this every time but WD-40 makes for cleaner darker marks. Everyone says they can't see how when one goes through all sorts of trouble to remove any traces of dirt or greas. I have never taken the time to research the Y but it just does, try it on some scrap. Still clean and prep the blade but before you put the stencil down spray the blade with WD-40.
    4. Neutralizing the Mark and cleaning the stencil with ammonia not Windex straight ammonia. This is a step a lot of people don't do for some odd reason?? Someone once told me it's not necessary because it's not a true acid etch..... But it is in regards to the fact that it needs to be neutralized with a base and ammonia is a strong base and a great cleaner and degreaser...and cheap.
    5. I don't know who makes them but there are silicone stencils that don't work off of the photosensitive adhesive system. They hold up a hell of a lot better and they stick to the blade by themselves, kind of like those sticky Slappy and or Colorforms ( Colorforms are made from vinyl not silicone, not to get off on a tangent)
    6. But wait the tangent might hold some merit here. vinyl stencils might just work! Give your design to a sign maker in a vector type file and have them print you sheets of stickers. Use the negative (or positive for a reverse etch) as your stencil. They would be one shot stencils but cheap as hell and the way a vinyl sticker would stick to the blade would produce extremely clean marks.
    If the singe maker says he can't do it go to another one, guys got a old printer/ cutter or doesn't know what he's doing...hell I'll bet there is someone on ebay that will custom cut for you. I don't know how small or intricate your mark is because I have never seen it first hand LoL but seriously I have cut and gotten cut decals with detail as small as 1/10" before, lines less then a mm thick. You need a fine thin vinyl for it that's why some singe makers won't be able to do it. If you want to give it a shot look for someone who custom cuts "decals". I know they make them for fingernails/ manicure people. CAD film is what I think it's called? They use them to etch microchips, your mark can't be that fine.

  9. #239
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    O wait that might be how the silicone stencils I have were made, with a vinyl printer/cutter??? Sounds reasonable definitely worth checking out

  10. #240
    Collin, thanks man-
    How the hell do you know all this??


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

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