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Thread: Why so much love for ceramic rods vs steel?

  1. #21
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    I meant: Setting up a stone is much more of a workflow interruption than using a rod or strop, if you either need the knife and want to continue cooking or want to put it back in good working order and continue.

    What I doubt is the blanket statement "harder steel doesn't roll, or is useless to hone/strop back once it has rolled" - I found that a-bit-too-thin hard carbon steel edges (think zero wide-bevel with a tiny primary bevel or even just a microbevel) often very much DO both roll and strop back into alignment easily... might be a case of the misalignment being not at the apex but a bit behind the edge, so approaching wire edge territory?

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  2. #22
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    I've used Choseras 2&3k dry, even the Junpaku 8k, so no preparation at all. Not sure what means "a misalignment behind the edge" where the edge itself is still straight.


  3. #23
    Senior Member chinacats's Avatar
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    Hard steel edge doesn't roll, wire edge will.
    once in a while you get shown the light, in the strangest of places if you look at it right

  4. #24
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    Apex fine, metal carrying apex bent.
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  5. #25
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LifeByA1000Cuts View Post
    Apex fine, metal carrying apex bent.
    Hard to imagine, to say the least. The very edge is thinner than a few micron. Behind the edge is fifty to hundred times thicker.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by StonedEdge View Post
    Seems to me putting a honing rod to a single bevel would be a quick way to f it up...?
    Not really, as long as you are being as delicate with the rod as you would be on a very hard natural. Take a freshly sharpened usuba and do a bunch of knife work, no matter the quality it will eventually have trouble cutting through something with tough skin, like tomato. Take a smooth honing rod, like the black mac or ruby whatever, and delicately strop the micro bevel edge trailing, then strop ura side either flat or with a tinny angle, there will be a difference in cutting performance absolutely guaranteed no argument I have done it a million times.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    No experience with single bevels here, but is was my understanding that deburring the ura was made with a very fine stone, 8k or so. Not with a 2k as your rods.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benuser View Post
    No experience with single bevels here, but is was my understanding that deburring the ura was made with a very fine stone, 8k or so. Not with a 2k as your rods.
    the mac black is very smooth and in the 80s of HRC, Id say its well beyond 2k in "grit" and it doesn't remove metal to the naked eye. All your doing is moving microscopic burrs into realignment, any material whether smooth or textured that is harder than the knife steel itself will move the burs. And it doesn't matter if its single or double bevel because those are differences in geometry not metallurgy, so if you can hone a double bevel you can just as easily hone a single bevel.

  9. #29

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    I saw on the german forum some use a plain steel by dickoron with good results.

  10. #30
    Senior Member ThEoRy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cheflivengood View Post
    the mac black is very smooth and in the 80s of HRC, Id say its well beyond 2k in "grit" and it doesn't remove metal to the naked eye. All your doing is moving microscopic burrs into realignment, any material whether smooth or textured that is harder than the knife steel itself will move the burs. And it doesn't matter if its single or double bevel because those are differences in geometry not metallurgy, so if you can hone a double bevel you can just as easily hone a single bevel.
    The manufacturer claims 81 rockwell and "approximately 2000 grit".

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