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Polycentric

KKF Supporting Member
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Hey so I've been avoiding buying a kurouchi knife for a while because I've always been wondering what happens after the kurouchi inevitably rubs off. So some KU finishes are pretty rough like nashiji, so when the KU black coating rubs off is the underneath just kind of like a nashiji finish which can be polished? And with smoother KU finishes, when the KU rubs off, can you just polish the hira to be basically a kasumi kind of finish? And, is the metal underneath the KU finish just normal metal or would it be more reactive or anything of the sort after polishing? It's weird since all this time, I've never really considered a knife with a KU finish even though I think they look pretty cool sometimes. I was specifically looking at a Watanabe 270 gyuto, but am conflicted about whether to get one with KU or just polished because I have no clue what happens to KU after it rubs off.
 
If you’re thinking about watanabe I would suggest getting the polished version. The KU 240 I had was mega chunky at the tip I hated it. If the polished version is anything like my Toyama I would have loved it for sure, and I hear they are very similar. As far as KU goes depending on the blacksmith they will fade differently, but inevitably fade. What you’re left with a nashiji-esque finish, and once that wears off it’ll be polished. The reactivity will probably be the same as the cladding shown in the shinogi.

Also you could ‘blue’ the knife periodically to keep the KU, but that’s a whole different thing
 
Damn, sucks to hear that the KU is a little chunkier tip-wise than the polished version since I really do want to try KU eventually. Also, how does the watanabe KU finish hold up?
 
Not sure I didn’t keep it long. Too much work to do on a knife that’s that expensive. But there’s plenty of people on this forum with watanabe nakiris, I’m sure they can chime in on the finish.
 
You make it sound like the kurouchi finish is some kind of special metal separate from the rest of the blade. Removing the metal will reveal more metal.
 
Danzo said:
If you’re thinking about watanabe I would suggest getting the polished version. The KU 240 I had was mega chunky at the tip I hated it. If the polished version is anything like my Toyama I would have loved it for sure, and I hear they are very similar. As far as KU goes depending on the blacksmith they will fade differently, but inevitably fade. What you’re left with a nashiji-esque finish, and once that wears off it’ll be polished. The reactivity will probably be the same as the cladding shown in the shinogi.

Also you could ‘blue’ the knife periodically to keep the KU, but that’s a whole different thing
Click to expand...

How do you go about bluing it?! Warming knife with warm water and putting blood on it?
 
Doom is right. It’s just the residual black gunk from forging as far as I know. I tend to lean towards knives without KU since they seem to be thinner. But it’s all the same steel
 
Hah, I feel like a long time ago I read something about a knife where under the KU was/felt really extra reactive so I guess that kind of left a scary impression on me. But I guess there's no need to worry, also I'm definitely looking for a very substantial feeling knife so KU kind of piqued my interest.
 
TEWNCfarms said:
How do you go about bluing it?! Warming knife with warm water and putting blood on it?
Click to expand...

I remember someone mentioning that there are bluing chemicals that they applied to carbon-clad kurouchi knives to cover up worn out patches. Just have to make sure the chemical finish is food safe once everything is done.
 
Blueing is a surface treatment usually done to guns with (IIRC) some chemicals. It's basically a hardcore patina on steroids, but it doesn't have much to do with the blue patinas talked about elsewhere around here.
 
Silky said:
I remember someone mentioning that there are bluing chemicals that they applied to carbon-clad kurouchi knives to cover up worn out patches. Just have to make sure the chemical finish is food safe once everything is done.
Click to expand...
Yeah I talked to Gekko the guys who made my knife and they showed me the chemical but it is Not good safe and really dangerous they said.
Jovidah said:
Blueing is a surface treatment usually done to guns with (IIRC) some chemicals. It's basically a hardcore patina on steroids, but it doesn't have much to do with the blue patinas talked about elsewhere around here.
Click to expand...
Oh okay I was wondering... thanks
 
Gun blue. Cold blue. Perma blue. Super blue. Whatever.

[video=youtube;fj-Qqde-3gA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fj-Qqde-3gA[/video]

Not sure about the food safety of it, but after it's dry and done reacting I doubt it's going to be able to do much to you.
 
TEWNCfarms said:
How do you go about bluing it?! Warming it with warm water and putting blood on it?
Click to expand...

This post is amazing to read out of context. I wonder how many other forums have conversations that go like this? :biggrin:
 
is perma blue food safe after curing? any one actually try this on their kitchen knife?? cause this looks awesome. but how easily does it scratch off with use? lol

i love the look of KU, but almost all of them are wide bevel and i don't care for that type of grind. for me, aesthetics is not worth sacrificing performance.
 
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