Handle Makers - New Handles Too Smooth

Back again, this time a question about finishing handles and adding some grip to them.

Just had my first set of handles completed and I had the maker finish them to bring the most out of the wood aesthetically. Problem is, if my hands are dry the handles are too smooth and I don't feel like I have a good grip on them.

My questions:
1. Is there a way to resolve this problem without remaking the handle?
2. How do you make handles look their best and still provide good grip?

TIA!
Kevin

I've had the same problem with some of my handles, the workmanship was too good haha. Reached out to Robin about this actually not too long ago, this is what he advised I do. Figure this might be helpful.

What kind of handle is it? It's most likely a very easy fix, you could try 240 or 400 grit sandpaper, a couple of lengthwise pulls on each facet.

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Sandpaper is probably the fastest easiest. But also could work would be steel wool or those black soft scotchbrite finishing pads

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Just wash the handle with dish detergent - that'll screw the finish up 99% of the time.

S-Line said:

I've had the same problem with some of my handles, the workmanship was too good haha. Reached out to Robin about this actually not too long ago, this is what he advised I do. Figure this might be helpful.

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Thanks, S-Line!

Dave Martell said:

Just wash the handle with dish detergent - that'll screw the finish up 99% of the time.

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HAHA! Thanks, Dave! :laugh:

Dave Martell said:

Just wash the handle with dish detergent - that'll screw the finish up 99% of the time.

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What's funny is I was my knives with dish detergent all the time and have never noticed any negative side effects. Good to know that when the day comes I finally get a Martell no dish soap on the musk ox

:O I'm guilty too. I wash my handles with dish detergent. >.< And sometimes the blade surface with a green scrubbie. Work knife suffers a harsh work life.

S-Line said:

:O I'm guilty too. I wash my handles with dish detergent. >.< And sometimes the blade surface with a green scrubbie. Work knife suffers a harsh work life.

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****aakea mine has seen war and then some, the poor tanaka, I looked at my takamura uchigumo, thousands of little scratch marks, was like poor btard. But atleast they'll have character.

Well some of us makers "try" to put out a dish detergent resistant handle. :biggrin:

I have exactly the same problem with custom handles. They are way to smooth for my liking. And I also do not like them any more on traditional Japanese knives. To me original handles look way better.
Not doing any more custom handle

-look their best and still provide good grip?

This is a little bit subjective and varies how grippy surface is required by you as a user. My go to finish is 600 with "enough" oil finish to both give wood feel and make the handle deal well with moisture/retain looks. But I know some chefs want a much grippier, and the route then is topping off with 240-600 sandpaper. The coarser the less looks, but more grippy.

I find that I am gripping the blade nearest the tang more than I grip the handle.

The shape of the handle itself should lend to feeling secure in the hand. Octagonal/ d shape, taper, etc...

But, I do recall a Goko from a certain store with a semi custom maple handle that literally had a slick poly finish on it. It was like trying to hold an ice cycle.

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One could also do a superglue finish where you pour superglue out to cover handle, and then grip it until cured. Should make the handle grippy.

Nemo said:

I find that I am gripping the blade nearest the tang more than I grip the handle.

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Same here, but the finish is the same along the entire length of the handle so it doesn't matter.

NO ChoP! said:

The shape of the handle itself should lend to feeling secure in the hand. Octagonal/ d shape, taper, etc...

But, I do recall a Goko from a certain store with a semi custom maple handle that literally had a slick poly finish on it. It was like trying to hold an ice cycle.

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Having a taper really helps, that's why I can't commit to a purchase if the handle isn't tapered unless it's ho wood.

S-Line said:

Having a taper really helps, that's why I can't commit to a purchase if the handle isn't tapered unless it's ho wood.

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I assume the function of the taper you require is to prevent your hand from slipping towards the back of the handle? Just so I'm clear on the benefit of the taper.

In other news, I sent a message to Anton via his IG account (@icanhaschzbrgr) and he explained that he doesn't buff the handles at all, just applies many coats of Tru Oil. I'm going to send this recommendation to Tony to see what he thinks.

Thanks to everyone for their comments!

I sand my natural wood handles to 320 and apply mineral oil. I am not a fan of hardening finishes on handles.

RDalman said:

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One could also do a superglue finish where you pour superglue out to cover handle, and then grip it until cured. Should make the handle grippy.

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:laughat:

I like Robin’s suggestion best. In the end, IMHO it’s a balance between bringing out the finest nuances of the wood and having better grip. Using something like 320 grit sandpaper will improve the grip but also take away a bit from the appearance. You can also try rubbing on a bit of bees wax or carnuba wax for more grip, repeat as needed.

Stefan

400grit automotive sand paper, then multiple coats of mineral oil

Thanks, everyone! Tony (LaSeur) is going to apply some sort of oil to finish the next batch of handles instead of buffing. Not sure what grit sanding he ends with - I'll check.

I use wax on mine as the only finish. Can get pretty smooth but has a good grip with lots of feedback.

I would just like to point out that the traditional Japanese magnolia handle does not appear to be sanded above 220 grit and not oiled at all.

woodworkcan said:

I would just like to point out that the traditional Japanese magnolia handle does not appear to be sanded above 220 grit and not oiled at all.

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This finish feels terrible to me. Like nails on a chalkboard reaction. However, I've never met a burnt chestnut I didn't like.

I don't believe it's traditional to sandpaper on anything in japan.

swarth said:

This finish feels terrible to me. Like nails on a chalkboard reaction. However, I've never met a burnt chestnut I didn't like.

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It's so functional though. I love the feel of a ho handle in a professional kitchen. My debas are almost all ho handles.

On topic I had a couple of standard handles around and went to try the coarse scotchbrite. Might be something for the chef that wants grip. Some oil improves the looks and moisture resistance if you want that. https://www.instagram.com/p/BjKBcvWgtjh/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1lbiaa9qzpar6

this is weird to me because when I grip my knives i feel like I barely have my hands on the handle. My ring finger and pinky are wrapped around the bolster, while my middle finger is in the riccaso area. The small part of my palm that touches the top of the handle inst really gripping the knife, just provides downward pressure. My hands are on the smaller side though.

I think we all use our tools differently. I can relate not to knife use, but my primary 1,5kg forging hammer, when I changed it's handle to ash wood finished like this with coarse scotchbrite and oiled, I stopped getting blisters completely. Dont know how much is attributed to the ash wood that is like having sex with the skin, or if the finish plays part too.

RDalman said:

I think we all use our tools differently. I can relate not to knife use, but my primary 1,5kg forging hammer, when I changed it's handle to ash wood finished like this with coarse scotchbrite and oiled, I stopped getting blisters completely. Dont know how much is attributed to the ash wood that is like having sex with the skin, or if the finish plays part too.

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Interesting, do you what was the original handle material?