Looking for recommendations for an inexpensive White #1 or #2 knife to practice sharpening

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sac36555

sac36555

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Hey guys- I recently bought a Takeda NAS 210mm, but am still learning to sharpen. I’ve been getting my crappy, cheap stainless knives pretty sharp, but also don’t really care if I scratch them. I do not want to mess up my Takeda, as it’s more expensive than my entire crappy knife collection.

I’m looking for an inexpensive White #1 or #2 knife that’s got a good heat treat to practice sharpening. I’ve never sharpened anything but stainless and have heard carbon steel is much easier to sharpen, especially white steel. I am open to a Gyuto, Santoku, Bunka, or something else.
 
sac36555 said:
Hey guys- I recently bought a Takeda NAS 210mm, but am still learning to sharpen. I’ve been getting my crappy, cheap stainless knives pretty sharp, but also don’t really care if I scratch them. I do not want to mess up my Takeda, as it’s more expensive than my entire crappy knife collection.

I’m looking for an inexpensive White #1 or #2 knife that’s got a good heat treat to practice sharpening. I’ve never sharpened anything but stainless and have heard carbon steel is much easier to sharpen, especially white steel. I am open to a Gyuto, Santoku, Bunka, or something else.
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What about Tojiro Shirogami ITK Gyuto 210mm in White #2, for around $60—probably as cheap as you can get to practice sharpening. Don't know about the heat treatment, but shouldn't matter if you're just looking to improve your technique, get the angles, pressure right, etc.
 
khashy said:
The Munetoshi linked above is very good. if you want to go even cheaper and still get a good knife that gets better and better with the work you put in it, try a Tanaka:

http://www.metalmaster-ww.com/product/703
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Im working on mine this momment, and I read this. It really does get better and better as you work on it, and really really good workhorse with b2 core that takes a really nice edge. BUT the iron clad is really reactive. Munetoshi has less reactive clad from my experience.
 
I wouldn't get hung up on white steel
vs blue steel vs VC or sweedish.

The point is "not stainless",
thats 98% of the victory.

That and a decent heat treat
of whatever steel
 
I was looking at the Munetoshi as well as the Makoto HG line. The Makoto seems like another young blacksmith just starting out on his own like Mazaki, where you can get a lot of knife for your money.
 
Wakui gets a lot of praise on here...I’m trying to stay cheap. I’d prefer to be in the $100 range is possible
 
sac36555 said:
Wakui gets a lot of praise on here...I’m trying to stay cheap. I’d prefer to be in the $100 range is possible
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In that case, the KU Tanaka mentioned above ($110) fits the bill. Also, a TF 165mm Santoku runs ~$100.
Another option would be to get a Tosagata for $60 and save the $40 towards a stone :)
 
depends on if you want purely a project knife
of something to keep as a beater...etc
 
I’m looking to practice sharpening on it, but also to use it afterwards as a decent knife.im not expecting an amazing knife, but something that I can use as a beater.
 
Like the Tanaka 210 KU mentioned. It's a workhorse that gets as sharp as you want. The grind is not very thin so you can practice on it as much as you like. You can see that this knife mentions having a horn bolster a plus at this price where many are made of plastic.

The HT is excellent on the Tanaka's plus you will have a good work horse blade. Just let it patina.

Even cheaper are the Tosagata's at Japan Woodworker. Both White & Blue steel with good HT. Some are thick others thinner. All have plastic bolsters. I do a speed sharpening demo. when I teach it gets their attention. Use a rehandled Tosagata Bunka Hocho thick blue steel. Dull it completely on the grates of a gas burner let a student try to cut newspaper with it. Then put on thinning bevel, final bevel, and deburr in less than a minute. The blade sails through newsprint. Have abused this poor knife at least fifty times over the years just keeps coming back for more.
 
Keith Sinclair said:
Like the Tanaka 210 KU mentioned. It's a workhorse that gets as sharp as you want. The grind is not very thin so you can practice on it as much as you like. You can see that this knife mentions having a horn bolster a plus at this price where many are made of plastic.

The HT is excellent on the Tanaka's plus you will have a good work horse blade. Just let it patina.

Even cheaper are the Tosagata's at Japan Woodworker. Both White & Blue steel with good HT. Some are thick others thinner. All have plastic bolsters. I do a speed sharpening demo. when I teach it gets their attention. Use a rehandled Tosagata Bunka Hocho thick blue steel. Dull it completely on the grates of a gas burner let a student try to cut newspaper with it. Then put on thinning bevel, final bevel, and deburr in less than a minute. The blade sails through newsprint. Have abused this poor knife at least fifty times over the years just keeps coming back for more.
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Time for a video :)
 
Keith Sinclair said:
Like the Tanaka 210 KU mentioned. It's a workhorse that gets as sharp as you want. The grind is not very thin so you can practice on it as much as you like. You can see that this knife mentions having a horn bolster a plus at this price where many are made of plastic.

The HT is excellent on the Tanaka's plus you will have a good work horse blade. Just let it patina.

Even cheaper are the Tosagata's at Japan Woodworker. Both White & Blue steel with good HT. Some are thick others thinner. All have plastic bolsters. I do a speed sharpening demo. when I teach it gets their attention. Use a rehandled Tosagata Bunka Hocho thick blue steel. Dull it completely on the grates of a gas burner let a student try to cut newspaper with it. Then put on thinning bevel, final bevel, and deburr in less than a minute. The blade sails through newsprint. Have abused this poor knife at least fifty times over the years just keeps coming back for more.
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You got videos of this....I’m always looking to improve!
 
I agree, the Tanaka KU is worth a few extra $$. James has them with an upgraded handle for literally a few dollars more if that is your thing.
 
My :2cents:... If you don't mind a petty to work on, the TF nashiji 150mm petty in White #1 is <$69 delivered. Responds really well on stones IMO and can get scary sharp without too much effort. Besides that, it's a great little knife to use (unless you're annoyed by plastic ferrules & basic D-handles). Sadly a 180mm gyuto runs over budget at $138.
 
sac36555 said:
You got videos of this....I’m always looking to improve!
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Sorry been using Janice laptop for a while can't seem to post anything on it. One of these days will get my own again. When I teach one on one I go slow explaining everything I am doing. Tell them to bring a charged up smart phone to film that segment of my teaching. The Yosagata Bunka I use is only 195mm with very little tip sweep and carbon steel in other words stupid easy to take it from dull to sharp quickly.

When I first started doing this was using a thin carbon 240mm that knife was taking a beating, switched to the Bunka Hocho it is so thick and cheap has lasted over 3 years and will last until I quit. It's a keeper like blade show them with a high heel and bird beak tip on how not to sharpen a knife, and a worn down Forschner with even edge heel to tip & still cuts well. These three knives use every time to get the message across.
 
Am only on thinking..."I want to take this class?" ;)
 
Boy ol’ boy I’m in trouble. So I bought the Takeda NAS 210mm a few days ago, then spotted a 240mm Toyama on the “other forum’s” BST and couldn’t resist. So much for “budget friendly knives.” I think I officially have a problem. I’ve noticed a bunch of people unloading knives right around the time of the Blade Show. Trying to get some funds to buy new things I guess? I’m happy to be taking them off their hands!!! Can’t wait for the knives to show up!
 
Masahiro virgin carbon is not white #1 or #2 but it has a good reputation and is pretty inexpensive. I do believe it is a monosteel and is supposed to be easy to sharpen. I ordered one after being utterly incapable of deciding between numerous more expensive knives but it has not shipped so I cannot give you an impression.

https://www.knifemerchant.com/products.asp?productLine=44
 
nonoyes said:
Group buy?

It would be worth it just to feel his burr: https://youtu.be/Y7BFsMZbomY?t=2m25s
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You never know what's out there noticed a more complete vid by the same guy. Those school kit Mercers are not bad steel don't care for the full heel bolster. They come in on own time to do one on one. This is the beginning class some of the teaching is done near end of semester so the mercers are duller with dents from deboning chickens. Still can usually get a even burr heel to tip on first pass at higher bevel. Main thing I stress is a steady spine at both angles and getting an even burr heel to tip & take it off. Most students of both genders are able to do that after close watch & any corrections their first try.

Learned by trail & error how to make it easy for students who have never put a knife to a stone before. Used to teach leaving blade on the stone and putting finger pad pressure only on trailing stroke. Found this was too much to learn in one session. Chiharu Sugai at Korin suggest for beginners to lift knife off stone. Vince has some videos doing this as well. Not only was it easier to learn with higher success rate, at low thinning bevels the sides of knife don't get scuffed up. That's important with new shuns or any new shiny knife. The knife gets just as sharp and it is truly 100% sharpened on trailing stroke.:)
 
160 Munetoshi petty (rather a mini gyuto - really an excellent little knife) would be my pick.
 
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