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How to remove scratches and polish knifes after thinning? - Page 2
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Thread: How to remove scratches and polish knifes after thinning?

  1. #11
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    It wasn't so much for thinning but I was trying to get more of a convex grind on it because I was getting a lot of sticking. I should have used a higher grit stone to start guess I know from now on though

  2. #12
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    Alright guys i gave it a go tonight just finished its no bad.. could have spent more time on the 320 grit i think, although looks much better than it did before hard to tell from pictures but its a lot better.

    I may go over it again another day when i can i have plenty of sandpaper left over. Id like to get it to polish up more though. If any of you have any tips that would be cool.

    Here is the pictures i took during it in case anyone is interested.

    https://picasaweb.google.com/1148022...November272011

    I can definitely tolerate the look of it now, however i don't think i will be doing any more convex grinding on my own. If i need it done i will send it out unless i can have someone show me the proper way.

  3. #13
    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
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    Removing handle is not a big deal and you will also be able to check that you tang is not rusting. When putting a handle back on, you can melt beeswax on the tang giving it some protection.

    Looks better, but it can look even better than factory finish (machine finish) if you put in time and do it properly.

    Kanji on your knife are stamped fairly deep, so they will stay.


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

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  4. #14
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    Id love to see a video of how to do it that way id feel more comfortable overall.

    To knock the handle off i put it in a vice and just tap it with a piece of would or something?

    I understand the rest of it and i will try to do it but i will need a replacement knife until then.

  5. #15
    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
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    To knock a handle off. Don't have a video but here are the instructions.

    - Put blue masking tape over the edge, so you won't cut yourself. Very Important!
    - Find a piece of wood (that you can hold with one hand) that is longer than your blade by 4-6" so you have plenty clearance for the tang
    - You need some soft of a mallet or a hammer. A wooden mallet works best.
    - Place the wood piece against a handle, and while holding a knife and block with one hand (left in my case), hit on the other end of the wood block with a hammer. You might have to hit a few times before you start seeing a movement in the handle.
    - To install it back, you stick the handle in and tap on the bottom of the handle until tang sinks in fully. I usually melt some wax on the tang while it is half way, so the tang gets coated and wax seals off the cavity. Then I melt some wax around the tang while it is seated, for a final coat.

    The advantage of friction hold over epoxy is for reason like this - refinishing (or sometimes regrinding) a blade.

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    I will take pics of my setup for hand finishing and post in this thread later.


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

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  6. #16
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    I'm a little confused. Which side of the knife were you trying to convex? I am right-handed. The left side of my knife has the stock finish on it still...

  7. #17
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    I only did the right left the back normal but while I was thinning on the back I did get some scratches on it, most of the damage was on the front.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marko Tsourkan View Post
    To knock a handle off. Don't have a video but here are the instructions. [...]
    Thanks, that will go in my notebook. Do you see a lot of blades that are epoxied in, or not many?

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by wsfarrell View Post
    Thanks, that will go in my notebook. Do you see a lot of blades that are epoxied in, or not many?
    The only one I have seen was Carter's. Even on Takeda knives, epoxy around a tang hole is applied after the tang was burned in, so those handles can also be removed undamaged.

    Why do Japanese knives burn in the tang hole? Because it makes sense. Shaping 4-4.5" deep hole is not easy by other means, a hold is very strong and a handle can be easily replaced down the road. The times you might see epoxied handles would be on oily hardwoods, as those tend to crack often when burning in, so it would make sense to shape a tang hole by other means and glue a handle in. Plus, those handles should expect to last during a knife's lifetime without a need of replacement.

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

  10. #20
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    ok well i went over it again it looks good except right down by the edge its a little hazy, any ideas on how to correct that?

    https://picasaweb.google.com/1148022...November282011

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