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Thread: Hand-Rubbed Finish

  1. #21
    I am using the gators A30,I would imagine that the norax x30 should give a similar finish but I can't confirm that.I am going from a gator a30 to a norax 16x then norax 5x.Some hand sanding with 2k norton paper then I am done.If I buggered it a little I might have to drop to 1k but that is some easy sanding at that point.

  2. #22

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    Nah, Butch....the best thing about Gator belts is they don't go bumpity bump and they last more than 4 or 5 passes with vanadium bearing steel.
    Quote Originally Posted by l r harner View Post
    one nice thing about the gator belts is they dont often leave "big scratches" more often the not you are seeing a scratch for a lower grit belt that you jsut didnt get out before handsanding

  3. #23
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    Chef Niloc's Avatar
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    Ok non knife maker input here, but I have polished a lot of stuff so maybe I can help?

    I always here makers ( Butch for one) refer to a 800 belt finish. I'm guessing this means just that, 800 belt no hand sanding? So I would think 800 you should be able to do by belt?

    Now for paper, start one step back from the last belt (600). I read Del post once about using wd40 on a stack of newspaper, I tried it and liked it. I stepped up to a firm rubber mat/pad.
    Side note: I don't know what this rubber stuff is or what it's meantime for but it's red, about 1/4" thick. Looks like the same stuff them rubber sanding blocks are made from? I bought the pad from a leather craft shop. Its used to protect the edges of punching tools as you hammer threw leather. it's not cheep, but my thinking is that its made for other things and the leather shops just mark it up a lot? so if anyone knows what this stuff is and a place to get it cheep I'd love to know.

    Any way I also tried honing/ cutting oil and it works better then wd40. I move back and forth then step up a grade (800) I do a bunch of swirly moves and then go back down to 600 grit and do more swirly moves. Now back up to 800 for the back and forth movement. I find that by stepping back each time that it gets the job done faster. I think it has more to do with just being able to see the left over scratches from the grit befor more easily? Any way I do this all the way up to at lest 2000 grit paper. I guess you would have to go to micro mesh to get more of a polish, but a machine buffer comes to mind?

    I like klingspor silicon carbide paper that I get from here http://www.woodworkingshop.com/categ...RY&f1=9+++X+11

    Find them cheaper then trugrit . I like the klingspor more then the 3M and its cheaper so thats a plus. That sad i like Hermes abrasives (belts I have used) does anyone know if they ( Hermes) makes sheets or roles and who sales them?

    Hop that helped?

  4. #24

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    I use a 3m rubber sanding block and Tap magic cutting fluid.
    Quote Originally Posted by Chef Niloc View Post
    Ok non knife maker input here, but I have polished a lot of stuff so maybe I can help?

    I always here makers ( Butch for one) refer to a 800 belt finish. I'm guessing this means just that, 800 belt no hand sanding? So I would think 800 you should be able to do by belt?

    Now for paper, start one step back from the last belt (600). I read Del post once about using wd40 on a stack of newspaper, I tried it and liked it. I stepped up to a firm rubber mat/pad.
    Side note: I don't know what this rubber stuff is or what it's meantime for but it's red, about 1/4" thick. Looks like the same stuff them rubber sanding blocks are made from? I bought the pad from a leather craft shop. Its used to protect the edges of punching tools as you hammer threw leather. it's not cheep, but my thinking is that its made for other things and the leather shops just mark it up a lot? so if anyone knows what this stuff is and a place to get it cheep I'd love to know.

    Any way I also tried honing/ cutting oil and it works better then wd40. I move back and forth then step up a grade (800) I do a bunch of swirly moves and then go back down to 600 grit and do more swirly moves. Now back up to 800 for the back and forth movement. I find that by stepping back each time that it gets the job done faster. I think it has more to do with just being able to see the left over scratches from the grit befor more easily? Any way I do this all the way up to at lest 2000 grit paper. I guess you would have to go to micro mesh to get more of a polish, but a machine buffer comes to mind?

    I like klingspor silicon carbide paper that I get from here http://www.woodworkingshop.com/categ...RY&f1=9+++X+11

    Find them cheaper then trugrit . I like the klingspor more then the 3M and its cheaper so thats a plus. That sad i like Hermes abrasives (belts I have used) does anyone know if they ( Hermes) makes sheets or roles and who sales them?

    Hop that helped?

  5. #25
    Do you need cutting oil, or any kind of oil would do? I have a good amount of way and spindle oil. Does anybody use Windex? I don't plan to go past 600 for a nice satin finish. I find over-polished knives are easy to scratch and have to be babied - I would rather people used my knives hard.

    I haven't used Klingspor, but should give them a try. I normally get 3M Emperial from Supergrid for handles. Seems to work reasonably well for hand rubbing.

    M

    PS: just looked up that way oil can be used as a cutting oil. Will git it a try. I used Windex up to now.


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  6. #26

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    Marko, Norton Black Ice and Rhynowet are the best wet-dry automotive sandpapers brands that I have used.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ******* View Post
    Marko, Norton Black Ice and Rhynowet are the best wet-dry automotive sandpapers brands that I have used.
    exactly what I was going to say. Also I use spra way glass cleaner.

  8. #28
    Thanks guys. Can you recommend a place where to get these papers?

    M


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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marko Tsourkan View Post
    Thanks guys. Can you recommend a place where to get these papers?

    M
    Marko try a local auto paint supply store that sells Norton products.

  10. #30
    You must have better stores than I, as I never seem to find things locally. Will look for it online. Thanks, Bill -


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    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

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